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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have some problems with my engine starting and I suspect the injector pump.
My mechanic replaced it, but I think the installation is not right and I am not getting enough fuel in the engine for it to start.

I am trying to find a manual for injector pump, whatever Universal has is very brief, just the picture of the outside not talking into details about installation.
I know the engine is based on Kubota Z751 diesel.

Here is what I tracked so far:
L-185 injection pump diagram? - OrangeTractorTalks - Everything Kubota

this tells that the injector pump is Bosch/Zexel PFR KD type, but I can't seem to find more info about those injector pumps.

Does anyone have more information about the installation details of the injector pump and connection to the throttle?
 

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If it's not starting, have you carefully gone through the bleeding procedure as described in the Universal maintenance manual?

Also, which manual are you looking at? The service manual appears to have details on pump installation, including adjusting the timing :

http://www.ewmanchester.com/CalDocs/Universal Diesel_5416_5424_Service.pdf

There is a small bleeding screw on the pump body, this is normally the final step in bleeding. Allow fuel to run from this bleed point until no air is present.

Then, as the pump is new, I think you'll have to crack off the fuel line at each injector and allow fuel to bleed from there.

I'm kind of surprised that your mechanic thinks the job is complete, while the engine still does not start. Hope you haven't paid him yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did the bleeding.

In the manual there is only this on installation:

Installing the injection pump
When installing the injection pump, make certain that the control rack pin is correctly placed in the 0.2 in. (5mm) wide groove of the fork ever (1) before tightening the attaching bolts. Refer to the diagram. If the bolts are drawn down with the rack pin off the groove, the rack may over travel and stick
in this position. This would cause excess fuel flow, allowing the engine to overspeed which would result in engine failure.
and not too much more. I am trying to troubleshoot it and I need a bit more details than that
 

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I'll look at my manual, I think it's in there. the engine is a 5416, kubota Z 750 or 751 seems to be some crossover which I found out when replacing the coolant water pump.

Are you sure the voltage to the glow coils is good? Most if not all universal engines had bad wiring set ups.. If you have a amp meter.. you will find melted insulation in the harness.
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/electrical-systems/139490-amega-gauge.html

update I checked.. nothing other then what you have on the control rack pin.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, glow plugs are good, I replaced them with new ones and measured the voltage there - it was 11.3 on one and 11.2 on another, which I think is near to what it should be.
 

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It is possible to flip the mounting of the throttle cable, and reverse the normal operation of the throttle lever. Mine is currently flipped, but I have got used to it (happened when a new transmission was installed 3 years ago). Forward is slow, back is fast on my boat.

Is your setup the one where the engine is stopped by pushing the lever against a spring? Or do you have a separate stop control?

If you have the one lever, it is fairly obvious which direction is idle because the lever goes past that point against a fairly powerful spring.
 

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Keep us updated! Gad.. hope I never have to deal with that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, it's frustrating, didn't sail this season because of the issues with the engine, I replaced the top part of it almost completely :)

Now I think I could fix Kubota diesels or Universal engines. Up to cylinder head, hope I don't need to do anything with pistons.
 

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my research tells me they all have cylinder liners and the rebuild parts are around $ 500-600

So these springs are the problem? I'm betting the old pump wasn't bad
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
my research tells me they all have cylinder liners and the rebuild parts are around $ 500-600

So these springs are the problem? I'm betting the old pump wasn't bad
Old pump didn't put fuel into one cylinder, so there was a problem, but I don't think I needed it replaced, just get it unstuck. But I can't believe the mechanic installing the injector pump didn't do it correctly. He charged me a lot of money for it.
 
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