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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I recently bought my 1980 Ericson 30+ with a Universal Diesel 5416 engine and am getting ready for my first oil change. My first oil change on any boat but a boat buddy is going to help me. :)

Although the previous owner seemed meticulous, I want to do a complete job, i.e. change oil, transmission fluid, filters, etc.

Any tips and suggestions would be really appreciated! I also have the following specific questions:

Re: oil filters
- local marine store (West Marine) doesn't have Universal oil filters. Should I find buy a Universal oil filter (OEM) on-line or get an after market oil filter at the local auto parts store?
- previous owner wrote down FRAM oil filter part numbers in the owner's manual, which according to the FRAM webpage seem to be the correct/corresponding part. But I've read bad things about FRAM oil filters. What brands do other people recommend? Can you please tell me the corresponding part number or is there chart someplace that lists various alternatives?
- the Universal owner's manual indicates fuel oil filters (part # 298854) and lubrication oil filter (part # 298852). Can someone explain the difference between the two? Should I change both of them or just the fuel oil filter?

Re: transmission fluid
- I haven't been able to contort my body to check the transmission fluid level so changing it will be interesting. :)
- I understand from the manual that I need about 1.3 pints (not quarts?) or .55 liters of Type A transmission fluid. Right?

Lastly, a dumb question. I guess there no air filter?

Thanks for any input!

Greg
 

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The Universal oil filter, 298852, cross references to Wix 51348, Bosch 72150, and many others.

What they mean by fuel oil filter is the fuel filter, on the side of the engine, next to the metering pump. 298854 cross references to Wix 33390, Fram P3726, Purolator PER 262F, NAPA 3390, Baldwin BF940.

The oil filter filters the engine oil. The fuel filter filters, wait for it, the fuel! The high pressure pump is very sensitive to the tiniest spec of dirt.

NB, after changing the fuel filter, you MUST follow the bleeding procedure in the maintenance manual.

My Universal also has an aftermarket Fram fuel filter/separator before the engine one.

Also the drive belt 204002 is Gates 7410, Dayco 15410, Goodyear 13411.

Do you have a Sherwood or Oberdorfer raw water pump? Your maintenance should include replacing the impeller.

If you have a Sherwood and it's not leaking, it will be soon. The Universal part numbers are 302648 / 42175 but the original Sherwood p/n is G903, and the impeller is 9000K.

Most people replace the Sherwood with an Oberdorfer, which is better designed and lasts longer. You want N202-M16. I recommend carrying one spare impeller for the pump you have, and one spare pump.

I have a complete list of rebuild parts for the Sherwood if you want it.

I've been sticking with Wix filters for years, no issues, the price is right, and they are well respected for fleet use. I buy in 3s from a truck part supplier. I don't like Fram either.

Finally, maintenance should include replacing the zinc in the heat exchanger.

Oh, and PS, don't forget the coolant needs changing every few years.

My yearly maintenance, which is every 50 to 100 hours, is :

Change the oil and filter
Change both fuel filters and bleed the system
Change the transmission fluid
Change the heat exchanger zinc
Change the raw water impeller, check the pump for any sign of leakage
Top off the coolant, change it every two years
Clean the raw water filter element
Check the belt
Test run engine in the slip for 20 minutes, in gear. If you haven't bled the fuel system properly, now is a good time to find out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks all for your replies. Thanks especially MarkSF for the detailed list of corresponding part numbers!

MarkSF, - fyi, when I check on the Wix website and on the O'Reilly website for the Universal oil filter #298852 they both come with Wix part # 51342, not 51348 as you wrote below. Probably just a typo, or maybe they changed part numbers so just wanted to let you know.

So seems like my plan should be to:
1/ change the oil (need 3.7 quarts of SAE 30 HD or 10W40).
2/ change both filters (Wix oil filter #51342 for #298852, and Wix fuel filter #33390 for #298854). --> Changing the fuel filter WILL require bleeding the fuel line.
3/ change the transmission fluid (need .55 liter of Type A transmission fluid).
4/ change the coolant (where and how much I'm not sure yet).

As soon as I get that done and am feeling brave, I'll figure out if I have a Sherwood or Oberdorfer raw water pump and tackle the changing the raw water impeller, clean (not change?) the raw water filter element, check the pump for any sign of leakage. And lastly change the heat exchanger zinc and check the belt.

How's that sound for a plan? Anything else? I'm a bit fuzzy on how to change the coolant. I'll read the manual some more but if anyone can give some suggestions, that'd be great!

Thanks,
 

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Assuming you still have the original Hurth HBW 50 transmission, and you are laying up for the winter, the Hurth manual says to fill the trans to the top with ATF, then drain back to the correct level in the spring. Don't know if anyone actually does that, but that's their recommendation.
 

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If you have a electric fuel lift pump it also has a mesh filter that should be cleaned or replaced.

Also, I would check to make sure your fuel pickup tube in the fuel tank does not have the mesh screen on it which is known to clog and shout be removed if present.
 

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Thanks all for your replies. Thanks especially MarkSF for the detailed list of corresponding part numbers!

MarkSF, - fyi, when I check on the Wix website and on the O'Reilly website for the Universal oil filter #298852 they both come with Wix part # 51342, not 51348 as you wrote below. Probably just a typo, or maybe they changed part numbers so just wanted to let you know.

So seems like my plan should be to:
1/ change the oil (need 3.7 quarts of SAE 30 HD or 10W40).
2/ change both filters (Wix oil filter #51342 for #298852, and Wix fuel filter #33390 for #298854). --> Changing the fuel filter WILL require bleeding the fuel line.
3/ change the transmission fluid (need .55 liter of Type A transmission fluid).
4/ change the coolant (where and how much I'm not sure yet).

As soon as I get that done and am feeling brave, I'll figure out if I have a Sherwood or Oberdorfer raw water pump and tackle the changing the raw water impeller, clean (not change?) the raw water filter element, check the pump for any sign of leakage. And lastly change the heat exchanger zinc and check the belt.

How's that sound for a plan? Anything else? I'm a bit fuzzy on how to change the coolant. I'll read the manual some more but if anyone can give some suggestions, that'd be great!

Thanks,
Thanks for the info, I'm not sure if I made a typo on my spreadsheet or what. You are right, the Wix cross reference chart lists 51342. I'll have to check my stock of filters on the boat.

Yes, normally, the raw water filter element is re-usable.

Type A fluid became Dexron. I try and use a top quality synthetic fluid, as it gets very hot and there isn't much of it. The latest is Dexron VI, which I used last time.
 

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OK I solved the mystery.

Universal 298852 equals Wix 51342.

But Universal superceded that part number - it was replaced by 299381 - which cross references to Wix 51348!

It looks like the main difference is the height - 51342 is 4.8" tall, while 51348 is 3.something.

Either is likely to work fine.

BTW, in case you weren't confused - try looking up the Kubota tractor with your engine in, which is L225 I think (my 5424 is an L245) - and you get yet another part number.
 

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Many thanks to Mark for the list of part numbers for maintenance items.

I thought I would add a couple of tidbits to whats already been said.

The Universal 5416 is based on the Kubota Z751 block, which was used in the Kubota L185 tractor. Mark mentioned that it may also be used in the L225.

A website I have found useful for cross-referencing part numbers is Kubota Tractor Corporation - Parts List Go to that address and accept the terms at the bottom of the page and click open. Then enter the model number "L185" in the search that comes up on the next page and hit search. You should get two results, either will work, click the "open" link, which will take you to the parts manual. Expand the "Engine" section and you will see the list of component groups. Click on any of those to see the parts diagram and list for that group. Clicking on any part on the diagram will highlight that entry in the list, and vice-versa. Enjoy.

Keep a close watch for any leakage from the raw water pump shaft seal(s), especially if it is the Sherwood, which is prone to this. If left for a while, the inner seal will fail too. Leakage past the inner seal allows raw water into the crankcase, which can lead to all kinds of expensive problems (ask me how I know). I found parts for the Sherwood expensive and so just replaced mine with an Oberdorfer.

Enjoy the 5416, so far mine has been running flawlessly since the rebuild I did about a year ago.

All the best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks to everyone for your comments and tips!

So far I've changed my oil, oil filter and primary fuel filter (I understand its sometimes called the fuel separator, I have a Racor R15S). I learned a lot and already have ideas on how to do it much more efficiently next time. :)

Fyi, after I changed the fuel filter I bled the system and my engine died in about five minutes. I bled it again and it seems to be running fine. Just two tries. :)

I do have a couple follow-up questions:

1/ I wanted to change the fuel filter on the engine (Universal part # 298854) as well but couldn't figure out which direction/angle to use to get a wrench on it. My boat buddy and I have tried a couple different filter wrenches. If I come from the cabin I can get the wrench on the filter but the wrench handle is right up against the wall below the quarter-birth before it starts to tighten its grip. I tried coming from the stern (through the port locker in the cockpit) but there's a big pipe in the way.

What angle/direction do others use and what kind of filter wrench do you use?

2/ Since I'm a new owner, I'd like to change (not just top-up) the coolant. The owner's Manual I have does not describe this process in detail at all (I don't have a “shop manual”, are those available?). So I am grateful to Frank who detailed the process below the Ericson boat owners site.

My boat buddy and I were able to locate the small lever just above the oil filter that we can turn to start slow draining of the engine block (after siphoning the coolant using my extractor pump from both the reservoir and engine manifold filler cap) and I THINK we found the small round knob below the alternator on one of the hoses that will also drain the block. Its a thin, metal hose, right?

But we can't find the small petcock valve Frank described, located on the top of the thermostat housing to open and allow air bubbles to escape after adding coolant.

Could this petcock have been replaced/moved on my boat? How necessary is it to do this bleeding process when replacing the coolant? My Owner's Manual just says to add new coolant directly to the engine. A previous owner crossed that out and wrote in to add to the reservoir, which is where I would do so.

Thanks again for any responses!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi All,

Wanted to say thanks, give an update on my maintenance and ask hopefully one last question.

I changed my oil and oil filter, transmission fluid, both fuel filters and bled the system. All seems good! :) I decided to wait on changing on the coolant until I figure a couple things out.

HERE'S MY BIG QUESTION:
I'm trying to change the impeller on my raw water pump. I have an Oberdorfer (p/n # N202M-07) raw water pump. Per the engines owner's manual, I removed the screws, front plate and the retaining ring. Using a wooden dowel to keep the shaft from coming out I was able to pull out the impeller (that took quite a lot of work). I took the impeller to the chandlery and got a new one. Pushed the new one onto the shaft and it seemed to go all the way on but there's just not enough clearance to get the retaining ring back into its little groove. Any ideas?

Yes, we compared the new impeller to the old one. It sure seems like its definitely the right replacement part (and went to a good chandlery that should definitely know). It seems like the new rubber is slightly firmer as would be expected, which makes it stick out maybe less than a millimeter more - just enough that we can't get the retaining ring back on.

Would really appreciate any help!
 

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If you wound up with the "Globe" "run dry" type. they won't work, the front back dimension is slightly too short and the water will bypass it causing it to not prime.

The shaft tends to push back. It's pretty easy to remove the whole pump if you need to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
If you wound up with the "Globe" "run dry" type. they won't work, the front back dimension is slightly too short and the water will bypass it causing it to not prime.

The shaft tends to push back. It's pretty easy to remove the whole pump if you need to.
Thanks Denise,

I don't think so. In my case, the front-to-back dimension is slightly too long (deep), which is keeping me from getting the retaining ring back on.

Anyone else, any other ideas?

Thanks!
 

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The problem with re-inserting the impeller is that you likely moved the shaft while pulling the old impeller off. Solution is to insert the impeller and shaft as far as they will go, then turn the impeller, and apply slight pressure. You should not have to turn more than 180º. When the slot in the cam shaft lines up with the tang on the impeller shaft (or visa-versa), it will slip in.

There is also a thread that will provide some insight here; http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel/60992-rebuilding-oberdorfer-pump.html
 

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Also... when I do this job, I now pull the impeller, shaft, washer and c-clip out as a unit. I also do this in the spring, when I recommission the boat (not just before I haul). I put it back together outside of the pump housing, and slip the whole ball of wax back into the pump. I put some liquid soap on the impeller (light coating), give the assembly a 90º turn with slight inward pressure, and it pops back in.
 

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Press the hub with a tube or socket and see if you can get impeller far enough to let the snap ring on before it re-expands. Or just take the pump off so you can back up the shaft. replace the seals while at it. My Obie pump has been incredibly dependable, only on my 2nd impeller in nearly 10 years.
 
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