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I have the Universal 5424, which has a max RPM of 2800 but on my boat only reaches 2400. This is due to the large pitch 3 bladed propeller.

There is a misconception that you have the correct propeller if the engine just about reaches max rpm. This is based on a misunderstanding of how an engine works. Peak power is not necessarily developed at max rpm. This varies from engine to engine, as the plot of torque vs. rpm varies and power is a product of torque and rpm.

Optimum performance will be reached when the propellor is selected such that the engine just reaches it's maximum POWER, not rpm. I've seen numerous posts on fora where people say that if you can't reach max rpm, you are overpropped or the engine is faulty. Not necessarily.

Should you be selecting the prop based on performance of the boat through the water, or on reaching the rpm spec? There was a recent post where someone followed the forum advice concerning the boat being overpropped, put a lower pitch one on, and now achieves max. rpm - at the cost of 1 knot maximum speed and increased fuel consumption due to cruising at higher rpm.

Stop obsessing over getting it to 3000rpm and instead concern yourself with the boat's performance. If you're getting to hull speed at reasonable rpm with good fuel consumption, all is good.

PS, when my max rpm starts dropping I know it's time to get the boat dived. A dirty prop makes a BIG difference.

PPS, You'll get less rpm when the boat is stationary that when it's moving.

PPPS, sounds like the one thing we're sure of is that your dock cleats, docking lines, and boat cleats are all in good shape.

PPPPS (gosh), diesel tachometers are only as accurate as they were adjusted to be. Don't take any rpm reading as gospel without confirming it with a strobe.
 

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"Even with our engine looooong out of warranty Joe Joyce of Westerbeke flat out told me I was damaging my engine by running it 275-300 RPM off max rated with the prop we had. In the short time we ran the boat that way the soot on the transom was considerably more than with the right prop. I hauled the boat, sent the prop back and had it re-pitched. It now sings within 25-50 RPM of max rated just as it had for the previous 2700 hours.. "

The suggestion that you're going to damage an engine by loading it such that it will only reach 90% of max rpm does not stand up to scrutiny. This is a tractor engine!. I hope no-one will be connecting any kind of heavy load to their tractors.... last time I checked the manual for my diesel car, it did not forbid driving up gentle gradients.... or putting some luggage and passengers in the car.... or driving into a headwind...or just driving on the freeway in 6th gear.

If the Universal in my Bristol (3 bladed prop, only reaches 2400rpm) is being damaged, it's taking a while for that damage to make itself obvious... it's 28 years old, the hourmeter broke at 3700 hours years ago, and it shows no signs of wear.

Mechanical wear rises rapidly with rpm so the lower your cruising rpms, the better (with reason, of course).
 

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I think we agree that it's impossible to say without knowing anything about your prop, and what cruising performance you are getting (speed vs. rpm)
 
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