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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello sailors,

I've just signed up to the forum, and I'd like to talk about the practice of filling the norsemen fitting up with silicone after the wire has been seated, and using (red) locktight on the threads V's placing and seating the cone and wires and simply strewing it back together with some lube??? I personal think that the mechanics of the norsemen is good enough not to need locktight and or silicone, and so did my rigger..

Here is a video I short of the refit. you can skip to 6:58mins for the reassemble.


I'd like to know what sailors think of this method, because I'm about to cut about an inch out of my 1x19 wire and fit the norsemen fittings on my boat because all the turnbuckle are maxed out. Thanks
 

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I would never use red locktite on anything I wanted to take apart again. Red locktite usually requires heat to disassemble. If anything use blue but I would also defer to Norseman.

From the Locktite website:

Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

And Blue:

Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm look for the manufacture notes now, but I've seen professional riggers use silicone and locktight to reassemble and swear by it, and others say it's not needed!
I'm trying to get some feed back from experienced cruisers on what they do with their fitting.

cheers.
 

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Good enough is a relative thing. Somehow we all lived with nuts and bolts before Loctite, but I've never heard of a threaded part that didn't "taste better" with Loctite on it. WTF, once you've bought a tube, you might as well keep using it since it goes sour in something like two years anyhow, and then doesn't cure properly.

I'm not so impressed with red Loctite over blue, since I've taken apart red-coated parts using just the "heat" of a big wrench. And sometimes, a not so big wrench. And yes, I'm Real Damned Sure the threads were clean before I started.

But Loctite is a bit like chicken soup. You know, "It can't hurt."
 

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Hello sailors,

I've just signed up to the forum, and I'd like to talk about the practice of filling the norsemen fitting up with silicone after the wire has been seated, and using (red) locktight on the threads V's placing and seating the cone and wires and simply strewing it back together with some lube??? I personal think that the mechanics of the norsemen is good enough not to need locktight and or silicone, and so did my rigger..

Here is a video I short of the refit. you can skip to 6:58mins for the reassemble.

Fixing Willow's Rig Part 2 of 2 - YouTube

I'd like to know what sailors think of this method, because I'm about to cut about an inch out of my 1x19 wire and fit the norsemen fittings on my boat because all the turnbuckle are maxed out. Thanks
The biggest thing you want to avoid is dry fitting/assembling these threads. More than a few of these expensive fittings have been destroyed by thread galling.

Navtec / Norseman FAQ:

Q: Do I need to replace the cones when replacing my wire rigging if I have swageless fittings?

A: Yes, when replacing the wire Navtec recommends that the cones be replaced also.


Q: What kind of sealant should I use when assembling swageless fittings?

A: Use a non-corrosive marine sealant (DO NOT USE DOMESTIC BATHTUB SEALANT AS THIS CONTAINS ACETIC ACID, WHICH IS HARMFUL TO STAINLESS STEEL).



Q: What type of Loctite should I use in Navtec fittings?

A: Navtec uses Loctite RC 680 compound. It is very important that the surfaces be cleaned and free of dirt and oil before applying Loctite. While it is not necessary, we also recommend the use of Loctite Primer T to prepare the surfaces before the application of Loctite. RC 680 is a fairly high temperature high strength-retaining compound. To remove it, requires fairly high temperature. This temperature is too high for Navtec insulators so a lower temperature compound should be used on insulator fittings. Lower temperature thread locking compounds include Loctite 290 (green) and 277 (red). Both can use primer T or primer N. When using Loctite to retain rigging fittings, it is important to test the part for locking after the Loctite has set."
 

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instructions are a wonderfull thing, pay attention to them and be happy:


notice thread lock



and



pay attention to instructions posted ABOVE they are what come with norseman navtec terminals

of particular attention is to use thread lock to lubricate threads when test fitting

to correctly and tightly wind wire ends, I even clipped them a bit and filed them to not catch terminal end and give you a false torque reading

to undue...clean and seal with non vinegary smell sealant I used sikaflex polyurethane...no smell

and to use threadlock

I used permatex red...doesnt matter really use it.

also tight is tight and it depends on how exactly right you get the 1.5times wire amount over the cone

the more exact you get it(instructions say to check after first fitting undo anc check cone shape)

the better thread and fit you will get

once tight you do no good tightening more, you do good by stopping...1-2 thread exposed is ok more and no good

on my recent install my cones had shavings on them which is bad, a quick file and that was good enough...if you dont do this the cone will not compress easily and catch on the wires...

peace
 
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Hello sailors,

I've just signed up to the forum, and I'd like to talk about the practice of filling the norsemen fitting up with silicone after the wire has been seated, and using (red) locktight on the threads V's placing and seating the cone and wires and simply strewing it back together with some lube??? I personal think that the mechanics of the norsemen is good enough not to need locktight and or silicone, and so did my rigger..

Here is a video I short of the refit. you can skip to 6:58mins for the reassemble.

Fixing Willow's Rig Part 2 of 2 - YouTube

I'd like to know what sailors think of this method, because I'm about to cut about an inch out of my 1x19 wire and fit the norsemen fittings on my boat because all the turnbuckle are maxed out. Thanks
no offense to this video author(if its you Im SORRY) but he is not very mechanically inclined...or dint pay attention to dome very important instructions...primarily the shape of the wires(s) and cone before assembling.

what I mean is he didnt form the outer wires correctly over the cone and inner core..they should be coned over...does this make sense? not splayed out
I used some pliers and carefully formed them over cone and inner core...

then you dry fit(using thread lock) and form the wires even more...untill its all neatly assembled and tight

if the cone has not moved or pushed towards the wire ends you are good if they have and you do not have 1.5 length you can use a pic, unlay outer wires a bit and push the cone down... and relay

this is why its so important to not dry fit and torque down completely tigh the first fits(again in instructions)

I saw this vid and many others and in the end since I was experienced with things mechanical(rebuilding motorcycles, engines etc) I just needed a refresher and beleive it or not the norseman instructions were all I needed

that and common sense

you need to form the wires well thats the most important thing that and not have any shavings or catchy wire ends that will get pressed inside the norseman terminal when turning.

also pay really good attention to your wire lay, right or left?

the instructions TELL you which terminal half you should move or tighten and which you hold FAST or steady so as not to get the wires out of shape...
 

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and to finish off I too contemplated just the grease use:

but

Rigging vibrates if it does enough the terminales will and can loosen it has happened and what happens there is the cone starts slipping off the inner core...the wire slips a bit and you can lose tension and eventually fail

thats why threadlock is recomended, imperative if you will...

2. water ingress...while the vid has done good showing the grease on the threads there is nothing to protect the actual wires from corrosion

and this point starts a lot of wars like oil wars, yes its stainless but they have been cut...and water can ingress by gravity down into the core then it seeps into ths cone and puddles INSIDE

so what sealant does is simply fill voids to prevent puddles of water ingressing.

many people shied away from sealant because incorrect sealants where used enhancing corrosion...

cheers
 
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