I have kept quiet about a new to me boat, partly as they are uncommon here and hence the vessel and the po identifiable.
Suffice to say I have spent the last two months doing repairs, cleaning, varnishing, putting new upholstery in and making a start on the jobs rather than sailing.
I have read the threads on putting in a holding tank with interest as this is the current project.
There is no room for siphon break loops above the heeled waterline, but with care with valves that should not be insuperable.
Apart from the old hoses not being of a sufficient standard I found that 180 bends had been made from a diverse combination of brass fittings and radiator hose.
There seems to be some difference in size between some fittings and hoses such that the new ones fitted easily (with some sail lube) whereas the old ones did not what ever the tricks I used. This may be a subtle difference between metric and imperial measures. A few mm does seem to make a difference at least here.
Anyway the old hoses were impossible to move bar the radiator hose bit. The two way valve previously installed in a token gesture to a never installed tank remains seized despite a week in kerosene.
I won't mention scrubbing to remove the effects of a previous occupant spraying stuff everywhere perhaps having forgotten said valve was unconnected or for some other reason ( he had repaired the pump). Dry it was just odious but in the tropics?
Anyway having spent a day trying to remove three pieces of hose and succeeeding with only one, I decided surgery was required ie cutting the hose off the barb.
This proved slower than I anticipated and I left it for the next day as yet another visit to the chandler was required.
The trickle from the nicks I assumed was from the matter in the discharge hose. I can assure you all build up is not calcium or urine salts related.
In the morning I found water over the floorboards, including my new heat gun, and a corner of my new upholstery. The upholsterer evidently decided the v berth required a 1 piece squab, which is difficult to stow elsewhere when one requires access beneath.
It seems that this bronze valve leaks when closed. A trap for those relying on it, as how do you know unless you take the hose off to test it?
Plumbers are even less available on New Year's Eve in summer holidays than usual.
I also noted that it would be impossible to use a wooden plug in any of this cluster of three valves because of lack of space. There goes another safety measure.
I also figure that double clamping is required not just at the initial junction but at all points on a line which may be below the water line when heeled. May be this is common practice, I don't know, but someone may find it relevant.
Anyway I decided that I could not be sure how bad the flow would be after the hose was totally removed and how quickly I could get a new run on. Chandlers here don't seem to stock elbows of valve to pipe direct, at least on my limited but increasing knowledge. (I declined to pay $49 a metre for fuel hose when I had asked for water hose for another job even though it was pretty.)
Anyway discretion proved the better part of valour so I deceided to have it hauled at exorbitant cost. Hmmph.
To add insult to injury these boats have an issue with the aluminium bilge water tank inspection plate leaking so that tank is now contaminated.
Lest you think the boat is a total heap of .... as it was hauled a guy who still owns one in the UK approached me saying how great it was. Better to buy from a particular and proud older person than a young cruiser.
Anyway perhaps this raises a few points of relevance to some. To come the electrics - is red negative in the US?
I am not entirely surprised - the boat suits me even if a bit smaller than I had in mind, but I wouldn't mind going sailing rather than learning about seacocks.
Happy New year all.
Suffice to say I have spent the last two months doing repairs, cleaning, varnishing, putting new upholstery in and making a start on the jobs rather than sailing.
I have read the threads on putting in a holding tank with interest as this is the current project.
There is no room for siphon break loops above the heeled waterline, but with care with valves that should not be insuperable.
Apart from the old hoses not being of a sufficient standard I found that 180 bends had been made from a diverse combination of brass fittings and radiator hose.
There seems to be some difference in size between some fittings and hoses such that the new ones fitted easily (with some sail lube) whereas the old ones did not what ever the tricks I used. This may be a subtle difference between metric and imperial measures. A few mm does seem to make a difference at least here.
Anyway the old hoses were impossible to move bar the radiator hose bit. The two way valve previously installed in a token gesture to a never installed tank remains seized despite a week in kerosene.
I won't mention scrubbing to remove the effects of a previous occupant spraying stuff everywhere perhaps having forgotten said valve was unconnected or for some other reason ( he had repaired the pump). Dry it was just odious but in the tropics?
Anyway having spent a day trying to remove three pieces of hose and succeeeding with only one, I decided surgery was required ie cutting the hose off the barb.
This proved slower than I anticipated and I left it for the next day as yet another visit to the chandler was required.
The trickle from the nicks I assumed was from the matter in the discharge hose. I can assure you all build up is not calcium or urine salts related.
In the morning I found water over the floorboards, including my new heat gun, and a corner of my new upholstery. The upholsterer evidently decided the v berth required a 1 piece squab, which is difficult to stow elsewhere when one requires access beneath.
It seems that this bronze valve leaks when closed. A trap for those relying on it, as how do you know unless you take the hose off to test it?
Plumbers are even less available on New Year's Eve in summer holidays than usual.
I also noted that it would be impossible to use a wooden plug in any of this cluster of three valves because of lack of space. There goes another safety measure.
I also figure that double clamping is required not just at the initial junction but at all points on a line which may be below the water line when heeled. May be this is common practice, I don't know, but someone may find it relevant.
Anyway I decided that I could not be sure how bad the flow would be after the hose was totally removed and how quickly I could get a new run on. Chandlers here don't seem to stock elbows of valve to pipe direct, at least on my limited but increasing knowledge. (I declined to pay $49 a metre for fuel hose when I had asked for water hose for another job even though it was pretty.)
Anyway discretion proved the better part of valour so I deceided to have it hauled at exorbitant cost. Hmmph.
To add insult to injury these boats have an issue with the aluminium bilge water tank inspection plate leaking so that tank is now contaminated.
Lest you think the boat is a total heap of .... as it was hauled a guy who still owns one in the UK approached me saying how great it was. Better to buy from a particular and proud older person than a young cruiser.
Anyway perhaps this raises a few points of relevance to some. To come the electrics - is red negative in the US?
I am not entirely surprised - the boat suits me even if a bit smaller than I had in mind, but I wouldn't mind going sailing rather than learning about seacocks.
Happy New year all.
