SailNet Community banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Turned the key to start the above engine, alarm lights came on as usual, but when turned to start, nothing: no click like with a dead battery, no starting cranking, just nothing. Turned the key back to off, tried again, and it started right up.

Shrugged it off and went sailing. End of the day, go to start the engine, and same thing happens. This time, repeated attempts to start the engine fail. I check to make sure battery levels are good, battery contacts are clean, engine is not in gear, plenty of fuel, re-do the start-up steps a half dozen times all with same result.

I figure maybe corrosion in the brushes of the key switch or a loose wire behind the starter panel. I get behind it, don't see anything obviously wrong, so try to pull the starter panel. Spend 30 minutes or so trying to do that and am in the process of trying pry it free from the adheasive silicone its mounted in. Before I really get into that, and because darkness is failing and I'm thinking maybe I'll just test out that full towing package I pay for or test my skills sailing into the slip, I give the key one more hail mairy turn, and it starts right up.

I thank Neptune, put away the tow card, and head into the slip. I try to recreate the problem once in the slip: I let the engine sit a while, and start it up. I do this 4 or 5 times and each time it starts no problem.

So, I don't know why it wouldn't start, I don't know what the problem is, and I don't know what I did, if anything to fix it. Not sure how to trouble shoot it, or what it might be. Starter going bad maybe? Ideas and suggestions anyone?
 

·
Courtney the Dancer
Joined
·
3,971 Posts
I would check the negative battery connection(s) and the ground from the engine. Even if they look clean take them off and clean them. Tough thing to track down if it's intermittent, it could be a bad connection in the solenoid wire and that's pretty easy to check (usually). Good luck.
 

·
Retired and happy
Joined
·
228 Posts
I agree with John - sounds like a bad connection somewhere. I would remove, clean and replace all the connections in the starter circuit, especially the batteries and solenoid.

It could also be a faulty solenoid.....

Stuart
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
387 Posts
I haven't worked on, or did this in years, since working on my own cars / engines in my late teens, etc. But, in an emergency situation, similar to the OP's engine not turning over, is it not possible to try to short out the solenoid, or bypass the keyswitch, etc in order to see if it will turn over. Of course, if there are larger electrical issues, this may not work.

I would be interested in hearing from someone, knowledgeable about engines, who could descibe any useful procedures (similar to knowing how to jump start a car).
I realize many of us have a manual start option on our diesels. Good luck to anyone who can crank hard / fast enough to turn theirs over. I have tried twice, just for fun, on my Yanmar 2GM, without success. If it were life and death, i would have tried harder, but it wasn't worth ruining a shoulder, just to see!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
I am having issues with our 2002 as well! UGH. It is a really long story, but basically, I now have a remanufactured starter in place, but the only way we can start her is to attach the red wire that energizes the engine panel directly to the positive stud from the battery. Well, that worked for awhile,, but now, the starter either does not turn, or it will spin, not engage the motor, and continues to spin until we disconnect the battery.

The alternator is also not charging. I have removed that and am trying to find a place to test.

The original starter was removed when it would only start in the same way. So I am guessing it is not the starter? OR could both the "NEW" starter, and the old one, both have bad solenoids? Could this be a relay, or ???


Signed,
completely confused.
Chris
 

·
Warm Weather Sailor
Joined
·
1,040 Posts
If I remember right these old 2000 series engines have a fuse block on the top of them. Check to see if maybe the fuse is shot. If it is just plug the lead into another fuse on the block. Sorry but I can't post on this subject without bad-mouthing the worst engines Volvo ever made. I had a new one (2003) in 88 and put in a 3GM30F after two years!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
Tried the fuse, that is not the issue for me. I know you don't like them, but hey, it is what we have. A new engine is premature, and not an option right now for $$$ reasons. Any other ideas?

Chris

If I remember right these old 2000 series engines have a fuse block on the top of them. Check to see if maybe the fuse is shot. If it is just plug the lead into another fuse on the block. Sorry but I can't post on this subject without bad-mouthing the worst engines Volvo ever made. I had a new one (2003) in 88 and put in a 3GM30F after two years!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Starter solenoid

Your symptoms are in line with a stuck starter solenoid. Next time this happens tap on it with a hammer a few times and try again. If it works you may be getting close to needing a replacement or rebuild. I wouldn't do it until you have the problem repeatedly. Mine does has done this about once a season for the past three years. A few taps and it's good to go.
 

·
██▓▓▒▒░&
Joined
·
13,645 Posts
Witzgall-
" OR could both the "NEW" starter, and the old one, both have bad solenoids? " Could be, but more likely it is a wiring/switch problem and you are not getting power To the starter solenoid.
Stop at any library, any auto repair manual goes over the basics of how to test starters and alternators and they are pretty much all the same for any common car, same for most boats.
Most of the auto chain stores (i.e. Pep Boys, Autozone) will test both the starter and alternator for free if you bring them in--although the staff are often minimum wage and not always the sharpest pencils. If in doubt, let two different places test them for you, and go when the store is not hectic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Sorry - I was replying to the original thread.

Just get a remote start switch. This allows you to take power from the positive lead on the starter and send it to the S terminal on the solenoid.

There are many on the market. Here's one...

Amazon.com: Actron CP7853 Remote Starter Switch: Automotive

If you can do this and it fires right up you know that it's an ignition switch circuit problem. The remote start switch allows you to safely bypass the starting circuit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
That looks like a good idea, I'll get one. Thanks!

So if the engine will start with the use of the key switch when the red wire from the ignition circuit is attached to the same terminal as the battery cable, but not when it is attached to the spade where it belongs, does that tell me anything specific?

Chris

Sorry - I was replying to the original thread.

Just get a remote start switch. This allows you to take power from the positive lead on the starter and send it to the S terminal on the solenoid.

There are many on the market. Here's one...

Amazon.com: Actron CP7853 Remote Starter Switch: Automotive

If you can do this and it fires right up you know that it's an ignition switch circuit problem. The remote start switch allows you to safely bypass the starting circuit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Make sure your batteries are well charged before trying to diagnose this. Low voltage will just make it more confusing and could be causing your starter problems.

You can fix this problem. Use a volt meter to see if you are getting power to the panel. It sounds like you are not. It's just a matter of tracing the red wire back to it's power source. You may have to remove the red wire from the engine harness bundle to figure it out. Work through it using the volt meter. I'd get the parts and service manuals for your motor as they will show you the circuits. If your panel isn't getting power I'm not surprised your alternator isn't charging. It has to be supplied with power to start it making power.

You can pull the heavy cable off the starter, then use your remote starter switch to test only the solenoid. You can bypass the S terminal to test only the stater (without engaging it) by using the switch to go directly from the B post to the starter input (but only run it for a second as the switch wont last long at that current flow rate).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Two things come to mind...Check the Volvo engine fuse contacts are tight and polished or try using one of the other fuses in the transparent fuse block if one is fitted. SOme of these 2000 series engines had a relay between the switchpanel and solenoid and it is possible you have one of these and it needs looking at. If there is not one of these then maybe the key switch itself is on the way out . If you have a manual it may help with a circuit diagram.

Manuals may be downloaded from here.
Sailing and Yachting Downloads Marine Engione Manuals
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
I tried the different fuses, that did not work. I also suspected the relay, and even ordered a new one, but the wrong one was delivered, and I did not follow-up.

Can anyone explain what the relay does in the circuit?

Chris

Two things come to mind...Check the Volvo engine fuse contacts are tight and polished or try using one of the other fuses in the transparent fuse block if one is fitted. SOme of these 2000 series engines had a relay between the switchpanel and solenoid and it is possible you have one of these and it needs looking at. If there is not one of these then maybe the key switch itself is on the way out . If you have a manual it may help with a circuit diagram.

Manuals may be downloaded from here.
Sailing and Yachting Downloads Marine Engione Manuals
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
558 Posts
Do you have power to the fuse? Do you have power to the relay? It's much better to work off of facts than guess. Just be systematic and work through the circuit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Turned the key to start the above engine, alarm lights came on as usual, but when turned to start, nothing: no click like with a dead battery, no starting cranking, just nothing. Turned the key back to off, tried again, and it started right up.
I am away from home however I believe this engine sytem has a relay between the ignition switch and the starter mounted solenoid. If this relay is sticky it could cause the problems you describe.

The relay is fitted to protect the contacts in the starter switch so one alternative is to by pass the key start with suitable switch button that can handle the high currents in the solenoid. Take the by pass from the Volvo fuse block to the small terminal on the solenoid through the start button.

If you don t have a manual there are sites on the net where they can be downloaded.

http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/volvo_penta_2002_worksh.pdf
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
We have a Volvo 2002 and solved two major problems with it this year after 20 years of aggravation...It runs great now. First. Turning the key with not contact: the problem is in the ignition switch itself. We hooked up the old starter push button to the starter to bypass the key switch and that works fine. You still have to turn on the ignition before you push the button otherwise you may burn out the voltage regulator.

The Volvo use to be very hard to start...the problem was the starter. There are actually two starters recommended for the engine, but the one originally fitted on the my engine would not turn over quite fast enough. The other Japanese starter we installed works great and it starts immediately now.

Moe
Apache 37
 

·
clueless
Joined
·
184 Posts
I am having issues with our 2002 as well! UGH. It is a really long story, but basically, I now have a remanufactured starter in place, but the only way we can start her is to attach the red wire that energizes the engine panel directly to the positive stud from the battery. Well, that worked for awhile,, but now, the starter either does not turn, or it will spin, not engage the motor, and continues to spin until we disconnect the battery.

The alternator is also not charging. I have removed that and am trying to find a place to test.

The original starter was removed when it would only start in the same way. So I am guessing it is not the starter? OR could both the "NEW" starter, and the old one, both have bad solenoids? Could this be a relay, or ???


Signed,
completely confused.
Chris
Ok...

First what is the voltage on the batts?? below 12.6 recharge them BEFORE you try to start the engine.. Your stater that is staying engaged is due to low volts and the amps are welding the contacts together! which will cause and over speed and the windings will fly apart " your re man starter is toast".

Next
if the starter excites when 12 volts is applied to the start post " the small gauge wire/post" the the problem is not in the starter but the wiring or the starter switch.
Try these and get back with me.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top