[Wanderer122]

Has anyone had to replace the bronze centerboard tang on a Wanderer or the very similar P35? My Wanderer's wore away and I need to replace. I've found plenty of info on replacing the pennant and pin but nothing on the tang connecting the pennant to the centerboard. I'm hoping to find this part and some advice on how to replace it.
Any advice or referral would be appreciated.

Best,
Dave
Wanderer #122

 

[P35juniper]

my best guess is you will have to make it, on Juniper it's just two bronze flat bars through bolted on one end, then a hole for a clevis pin to hook the pendent to.

 

[Wanderer122]

my best guess is you will have to make it, on Juniper it's just two bronze flat bars through bolted on one end, then a hole for a clevis pin to hook the pendent to.

Thanks for the response Juniper. Have you any idea on a source for the bronze bars and the dimensions? I checked McMaster and am unsure of what bronze to use. My understanding is that silicon bronze is the preferred type but they only have that in ingots.

My Wanderer is on the hard and the board will be inaccessible until they put her in the slings overnight before launch. I will then have a short window to get the tang installed. I am trying to prepare as much in advance as possible.

 

[P35juniper]

I won't see the one on Juniper till I do the same, I'm thinking about 3/4 X 1/8 X 6, may be longer,
Look here Center Board Issues

 

[CLOSECALL]

I guess it is a chore I will have to face one day on my Wanderer #5. Thanks for the great info.

 

[CLOSECALL]

Checked out the centerboard pennant on my Wanderer this weekend. There is quite a bit of wear where the wire exits the tube before winding on the take up spool. It also seems that there is a slot in the end of the brass tube that looks like it has been worn by the wire. I think the wire is damaging the tube while the tube is damaging the wire. Definitely needs replaced this spring and I have a few questions.

What size wire rope to use? The existing wire looks to be 1/8 inch but some have mentioned using 3/16.

What kind of wire? Stainless? 316? 7x7?

What's a good source? Rigging shop?

I think if I cut a 1/2 inch off the tube the wear spot will be removed. I think the tube was moved a bit when the boat was repowered with a Yanmar.

Thanks for the help.

 

[Wanderer122]

The cable on my Wanderer is 3/16" ss cable. My plan is to replace with 3/16" Dyneema as I've seen a number of others used it - all the strength of wire rope but less prone to damaging the tube, abrasion resistant so less damage from said tube, no galvanic corrosion, or MEAT HOOKS. I'm planning to have an eye spliced onto one end with a thimble, then attach the other end to the existing cable under the boat and pull it up into the boat by drawing the old cable up inside the cabin.

I took a look at the 2 sheave boxes and what I'm hoping is bronze tubing that leads the pennant up to the winch. It looks fairly horrifying to have to replace. Access to the lower sheave box is lousy. Not sure if I need to replace / service but I found some small spots of rusty red goop by where the lower sheave box meets the bottom of the boat.

If anyone has had to replace or service the sheave boxes and tubing I'd really like some insight on the warning signs and what to do. I couldn't find anything on this.

I plan to take a much harder look this weekend and look for cracks or signs of leakage in the pennant tube assembly. The area where the cable enters the boat has always been dry in my 5 years of ownership, but I'd like to keep an eye on it as failure there (or anywhere in the tubing) could really raise my blood pressure.

Thanks for all your comments and insight to date. Keep em coming!

Checked out the centerboard pennant on my Wanderer this weekend. There is quite a bit of wear where the wire exits the tube before winding on the take up spool. It also seems that there is a slot in the end of the brass tube that looks like it has been worn by the wire. I think the wire is damaging the tube while the tube is damaging the wire. Definitely needs replaced this spring and I have a few questions.

What size wire rope to use? The existing wire looks to be 1/8 inch but some have mentioned using 3/16.

What kind of wire? Stainless? 316? 7x7?

What's a good source? Rigging shop?

I think if I cut a 1/2 inch off the tube the wear spot will be removed. I think the tube was moved a bit when the boat was repowered with a Yanmar.

Thanks for the help.

 

[CLOSECALL]

I think dyneema is a great idea.

 

[CLOSECALL]

Well, I got into it this week. The shackle on the board was rotted away to almost nothing so I'll have to fabricate one. I think bronze sheeting can be had from Onlinemetals.com. Maybe get all you need for less than 30 bucks.

I decided to replace the cable with stainless wire rope. Worked on the boat from a dinghy. It is a challenge, but can be done. After a while you get so focused that you forget that there is 10,000 pounds of boat hanging over you.

I was not able to pull the new wire through by attaching it to the old. The initial opening in the trunk is very small. I fished a piece of sail yarn with the old cable and used it to pull the new cable through. It was easy to attach the cable to the thread. I used 1/8 inch wire and don't think 3/16 would fit.

Good luck.

 

[CLOSECALL]

So last year I replaced the cable and the tang on my '66 Wanderer. This year I may try to get a look at the pin that the board pivots on. The boat is on the hard now. Can anyone explain to me what is going on up in the centerboard trunk? I am guessing there is some sort of gudgeon on the end of the board. Under the cabin sole is what appears to be a 1 inch bronze pin, threaded on the ends, with what look like pipe end caps threaded onto it. I am guessing that this pin is a pintle that runs through the gudgeon. I am guessing because everything is out of sight up inside the centerboard trunk.

There is a lot of play in the board that leads me to believe that a bushing needs to be replaced, or the gudgeon needs to be repaired or replaced. I suspect everything is 50 years old.

Any insights appreciated. If this job is too big for me, I'll just leave the board up.

 

[roverhi]

The board is a really sloppy fit in the well in the keel. The pin just allows the board to pivot but doesn't give any side to side support, that's provided by the board laying up against the centerboard trunk. On my P35 the pin is housed in bronze pipe threaded nipples glassed into either side of the trunk with caps screwed on. Hope I never have to replace mine as I question whether putting a pipe wrench on the caps will turn the cap or break the resin bond with the trunk and just spin the whole contraption.
There was a really good website with lots of information/photos and things Peason 35 but it's been down for more than a month and no one seems to be able to get hold of the owner of the site to find out what's happening. pearson35.com Almost certain there was a section on removing the pivot pin on the board on that site. The Q&A section of the board is still working at Pearson 35 Sailboat | Pearson 35 Sailboat

Replaced the galvanized wire cable with 3/16" Dyneema type line. It's held up fine but haven't used the board much to be sure that chafe won't be an issue with the old board components. Had no problems with the cable but it was beginning to rust after 4 years. Pulled the Dyneema line through with the old wire pennant which was a piece of cake. Only issue is the splice has increased the diameter of the line and won't allow complete retraction of the board. The board hangs down just a few inches which is no big deal.

 

[CLOSECALL]

Thanks, Rover.

Do you know if there is hardware on the end of the board or is there just a hole in the board?

 

[seaner97]

Thanks, Rover.

Do you know if there is hardware on the end of the board or is there just a hole in the board?

Just a hole in the board. Good old boat had an article on a Bristol 35.5 CB replacement a couple issues back. Very similar.

 

[CLOSECALL]

Thanks, Seaner. That's good to hear. I'm glad you responded because I think you know a good bit about these old boats.

I was concerned that there would be some rotten metal in there.

 

[seaner97]

Thanks, Seaner. That's good to hear. I'm glad you responded because I think you know a good bit about these old boats.

I was concerned that there would be some rotten metal in there.

Rover's got some miles on his vintage P35, too. I have spent a lot of time replacing pieces on mine in between sailing. I dropped the board before last season and did high copper hard coat both on the board and in the well, ran the pennant and double checked the attachments.

 

[CLOSECALL]

If you guys can help, I'm still not clear on how to remove the pin.

 

[seaner97]

If you guys can help, I'm still not clear on how to remove the pin.

If it's like mine(probably is- but post a photo to be sure) you unscrew the caps, tap it out and down goes the board. But the board is a couple hundred pounds or so, so careful.
And support it so it lowers. We had guys holding it in a pit in the down position. Realized this might not be as self evident as I thought when I re-read this.

 

[CLOSECALL]

I think I've got it. Last time I worked on the cable I dug a hole to let the board down far enough to access the attachment point. This time the keel is blocked up about a foot so I think the keel will drop pretty easy.

Thanks for the help.

 

[seaner97]

Happy to. Best of luck.