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Cabo Rico 38
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Monday on the way back from St Michaels my Westerbeake 46 started to make a very different noise it was almost like a screach and a tap all at the same time. I checked the water temp and it was below 140 and the oil pressure was about 55. I went below and as I opened the door to the engine compartment the engine made a fairly loud noise a came to an abrupt hault. After we got a tow home I was able to turn it over but not start and there is still the screaching noise at least that is the best way I can describe it. The engine is 1985 and I dought anything major has ever been done to it. Any suggestions or comments?
 

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From you description of the noises it sounds like a crankshaft bearing has failed. If you are not able to evaluate the engine yourself I would have it inspected by a mechanic, I suspect you are looking at a rebuild of the bottom end as a minimum.

If you need a Mechanics referral PM me.
 

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Cabo Rico 38
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought maybe a crank bearing when it happened later I was able to turn the engine over but it would not start so I thought dropped valve, someone else said timing chain. I think I will give it to an expert to diagnose and then figure out how to fix it.

Thanks R.F
 

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Cabo Rico 38
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Update
Yesterday after work I went back to the boat and checked the oil while I picked up the manual for further study. The oil level was fine and I thought I would turn the engine over a few times to see if I could hear the noise again. The engine started right up to my surprise and for the few minutes I ran it sounded normal. I even put it in forward and reverse and all seemed normal. Now I am really stumped?????????
 

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Telstar 28
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993 Posts
Could it be that you had something wrapped on the shaft and now, somehow, it isn't there any longer???
 

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Could it be that you had something wrapped on the shaft and now, somehow, it isn't there any longer???
Yeah, a line wrapped on the shaft will cause all kinds of strange noises and trouble. But if you were in neutral it should have run okay.

Have you checked the fluid levels in your transmission?

How about your transmission cables?

Did you recently adjust your stuffing box?

Have you checked the alternator and belt? Does the pulley spin freely (when the belt is removed)?

Do you have mechanical/engine driven refrigeration?

Etc?
 

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Jongoose we heard of your plight on 156.800Mhz(Ch 16) this past weekend..

see: Destinations; Chesapeake Bay: Memorial Day Weekend 2009
 

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Cabo Rico 38
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
sailingdog - I did think about something around the shaft but the sound was not indicative of that and I dismissed it when she started last night and ran fine in forward and reverse.

John - I have not checked the transmission fluids yet, the cable is fine, have not bothered the stuffing box and the alternator seems fine and the refrigeration is 12v

all - I am starting to think about a hydrolock. I can not tell you if there was steam in the exhaust just before it locked up but it could explain the noise, the fact that it locked up, the fact that it would not turn over in the bay but did finally turn over once back in the marina and then a day later started right up as the steam in the cylinder disapated. It was rocking and rolling with large ships going by as we were on our way out of Eastern Bay. I wonder if it could have shaken enough water loose from the seperator to cause what happened? Like I said this is a real puzzle.

aa3jy - Thanks! And thank goodness for unlimited towing! That little trip home on a holiday would have cost me $1,200.00.
 

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Telstar 28
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993 Posts
If it was truly a hydrolock situation, I would be really amazed that your engine wasn't seriously damaged. Steam will not hydrolock an engine—only a sufficient amount of liquid water will do so...and generally seriously damage the engine in the process.
 

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Shaken-not Stirred
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118 Posts
Despite the fact your water temp appeared to be low at the time of the incident it sounds like the engine may have overheated and eventually seized. The fact that it started and appeared to run fine later almost verifies this. I would check the lift pump for sure and the indicating system to ensure all is well.

Overheating and lockup is never good for an engine but if it already has a lot of hours on it, this incident may not have as much of a destructive effect as if the engine were new. A mechanic with a borescope should be able inspect the cylinder walls and combustion chamber to ensure the valves are okay. I don't think the incident involved any of the crank or rod bearings but it sure puts additional wear on them during the overheat and seize phase. The pistons and rings take the real hit so have the mechanic do a compression check also.
 

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ancient mariner
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439 Posts
jongoose----a good way to check for bearing damage is to saw off the top of the oil filter element if it is a spin on. pullout the pleated paper & inpect it for metal particles. you can do the same for an element in a filter can.
 

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jongoose----a good way to check for bearing damage is to saw off the top of the oil filter element if it is a spin on. pullout the pleated paper & inpect it for metal particles. you can do the same for an element in a filter can.
Remove the top using tin snips. A hacksaw will create metal particles which go everywhere.

DaCAP
 

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Lynger1
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25 Posts
Update
Yesterday after work I went back to the boat and checked the oil while I picked up the manual for further study. The oil level was fine and I thought I would turn the engine over a few times to see if I could hear the noise again. The engine started right up to my surprise and for the few minutes I ran it sounded normal. I even put it in forward and reverse and all seemed normal. Now I am really stumped?????????
Hi i had this problem e few years ago
i lifted moter up undit the sump and we found bit of steel broken of from oil pump wat jamed between piston rod and came loose drop in bottom of sump
damage was not bad we removed this bit replaced mecanical oil pump changed oil and filter.
Refited moter back and restarted moter with our fingers crossed
moter is been running fine for the last 3 years.
It pays to remove sump of your moter and in spect>
hope this wil be the case.
Lynger1
 

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Cabo Rico 38
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update

On Saturday I was able to locate a coolant leak that has been bothering me. The injector lines had rubbed a hole in the aluminum tube from the fresh water pump to the exchanger. I ordered new parts but decided to cut out the bad spot and replace it with a piece of heater hose until the parts come in. In the process of replacing the tube I noticed that the leak was dripping down on one of the connections on the starter selanoid. At this point I had run the engine and it had stopped on me just as it had out in the bay on Memorial Day. The connector was shot so I replaced it. I tried the engine again and it started right up but I could still hear the valves pinging and expected it to stop again. The engine did not stop and the pinging went away and I ran the engien at 1800 rpm under load in the slip for 1.5 hrs and it ran better than it has since I bought the boat two years ago. The bad connection seems to have been connected to the fuel pump and the starter and as the contact got worse so did the problems. Go Figure!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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