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Discussion Starter #1
Here is my problem .... I recently discovered that the oil pan on my Westerbeke 27A is leaking. The leak is at the forward port side of the pan. I think it was caused by the raw water intake hose rubbing on the pan and salt water seeping out of the hose onto the pan, and over time, causing the pan to leak oil.

So far I have drained and vaccumed the remaining oil from the pan, removed the raw water intake hose. and generally cleaned up the bilge and the pan. The good news is that 1) I can reach the pan where it is leaking
2) The pan slopes to the rear from the leak, 3) I think? all 17 pan bolts can be reached without removing the engine.

My question is, do you think, if I were to clean and sand the area of the leak 3 or 4 times and then use JB Weld on the area and maybe 3M 5200 after the JB Weld sets up, do you think it would work?

I know-I know, this is a Redneck Fix, but the alternative is to throw a whole bunch of money into it and hire it done with a new pan etc. etc.
 

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New pan gasget. If the pan is corroded badley it can be braised good as new.
Otherwise new pan new gasget.
 

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Hi
I have a similar problem, my oil pan is starting to rust but is not yet leaking. The rust spot is about the size of a 25 cent piece. I hate to start picking at it but I hate to ignore it as well. If I use jb weld what is the best way to prep the pan? If I want to buy a new pan any idea where to look. My engine is a westebeke 40
thanks
bill
tartan 37
 

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I thought I had an oil pan leak on my Westerbeke 4-107. The engine is tilted aft and the oil dripped from the port side of the engine. After cleaning and fretting about replacing the gasket, I saw tiny holes in the timing chain cover. I sanded the areas and used JB Weld to fill the holes. No more oil leak.

Dot and John
 

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Here is my problem ... 3) I think? all 17 pan bolts can be reached without removing the engine.

My question is, do you think, if I were to clean and sand the area of the leak 3 or 4 times and then use JB Weld on the area and maybe 3M 5200 after the JB Weld sets up, do you think it would work? ...
While you might be able to reach all the pan bolts, and maybe even remove them (without breaking one off :eek: ), you may very well find that you still won't be able to remove the pan with the engine in place. In fact, I'd be surprised if you could. Generally, boat engines are mounted as low as possible. And don't forget that the crank extends below the bottom of the block. You would probably have to disco the prop shaft, exhaust, etc,. unbolt the mounts and raise the engine severa inches to get the pan out.

The JB Weld (or other epoxy) solution is definitely the way to go first. As Sony said, forgtet the silicone, just use the JB. If that doesn't work, you'll have to find out how much clearance you really have.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Last week after cleaning and sanding several times I applied the JB WELD to the area that seemed to be leaking oil. So far it looks great, but I will keep a close eye on it to make sure there are no surprises.

Thanks for the responses and advice.
 
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