[George Da Porge]

So, we are replacing the rubber in our rub rail. Before inserting the new rubber I am going to remove the track and inspect all of the screw and bolt holes. If I need to repair any of those I would plan to drill out and fill with thickened epoxy. However, if the standard practice is to wet out the holes first w/unthickened epoxy, how does one keep the unthickened epoxy in the horizontal hole for a few minutes? And then what's the easiest way to get it out?

 

[Faster]

Hmm.. do you have evidence or concern about leakage in those areas now?

I'd be a bit concerned that you'd be 'creating' a problem you didn't have before by removing the rail itself.

 

[Stumble]

I am with Faster, absent known issues I wouldn't be in a hurry to rip it apart. If you do have an issue then you obviously have to deal with it.

To fill a horizontle hole just tape up one side, and put a strip of tape covering all but the very top on the other. Using a syringe fill the hole completely. The small hole should keep the thickened epoxy from pouring out. Then add more tape to cover the small hole. I like painters blue tape for this stuff since it removes well, but cellophane tape is also nice since you can see how full the hole is as you go.

 

[George Da Porge]

I have some suspicion of the holes on the port side. However, the rubber is pricey, and something I wouldn't expect to change for many years. The boat is a 1990 Catalina 30. My thought process is to be conservative and make sure there aren't any issues rather than find out down the road.

 

[tempest]

It's a vertical surface, yes? Is your track attached with both screws and nuts and bolts?

The bolts can just be tightened no? Probably a two person job. Someone inside with a wrench on the nut.

If the screws are loose and spinning, couldn't you just fill the hole with a little thickened epoxy with a syringe and redrill? Some clear cellophane tape or plastic wrap? should hold it until it sets.

 

[capta]

It is very difficult to get a handle on the phrase "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" on a boat, but I have learned from many, many bad experiences trying to do 'the right thing" that if it ain't broke, REALLY, don't fix it. I repeat, many, many bad experiences.

 

[George Da Porge]

capta - appreciate your comments. The rub rail is attached with 214 screws/bolts, so it's a task I'm not looking forward to. I have drilled a number of "index" holes in the rail so I get it back on exactly same position. If I find the rail itself is adhered firmly to the hull with adhesive, I certainly won't be prying that off. I will be taking it one step at a time. Very methodical. The other reason for checking the fasteners is that I have several interior panels off inside. Quite a few bolt/nuts are exposed.

 

[eherlihy]

Does your 1990 Catalina 30 have a cored deck AT THE RUBRAIL? I doubt it. Most boats have core only on the horizontal surfaces of the deck, and not the vertical surfaces or edges.

Here are two pictures showing how a late '80's Pearson 33 deck was laid up. This is typical of how sailboat decks are laid up - even today. In both pictures, the deck is upside down.

You can see that there is balsa core on all of the horizontal surfaces, but not on any of the vertical surfaces, or edges.

If there is no core, then you are only trying to re-define/strengthen the edges of the hole, and not completely fill it.

I believe that I know what you are trying to do, and here is how I would handle it. West Systems makes this epoxy in a tube, called Six-10. It is mixed when you dispense it through the nozzle, or you can stir it in a cup. The stuff is great, in that it is viscous enough that it will cure in a lump that you can suspend upside down, without adding additional thickener. If you stir it after dispensing it through the nozzle, it becomes less viscous. The more you stir, the thinner it gets.

1. squirt some Six-10 in a cup
2. mix it with a small stick
3. using the stick or a small chip brush apply brush the epoxy to wet out the hole
4. then apply the Six-10 directly into the hole to fill and fair it using the nozzle**
5. redrill the hole after it sets**

** only necessary if you want to completely rebuild the hole.

That said, I would not attempt any of this unless I was sure that water was penetrating through these holes.

 

[George Da Porge]

Eherlihy - great idea with the Six-10. That'll be a huge time-saver on any holes needing work.

So if I do leave the rail itself on, are you suggesting to not even remove screws/bolts as a check (even if then I would use the Six-10 to fill/re-drill hole?)? Maybe I need to spray hard stream of water on the rail and joint and observe inside. It's still too cold to turn yard water on!!

 

[Ward H]

I replaced the rub rail on my O'day. I removed all the screws holding the plastic rail on, then filled the screw holes with 610 in a caulking gun. As Eherlihy says, it is thick enough it won't run. I would do about a dozen holes, then go back and smooth any epoxy bumps. None of the rub rail screws were joint screws so all holes were drilled new when installing the rub rail.
Before the rub rail went on I did back out all joint screws a couple at a time, dabbed the screw shaft with 4200, then retightened. That stopped a lot of water intrusion I was fighting.
The neat thing about 610 is you can buy spare mixing tips so a tube will last a long time.

 

[George Da Porge]

Ward H - thanks for the additional info on the Six-10! I love these forums!!

Thanks all - for all the feedback!!!