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Here's my project. My boat is a Compac 19. It presently has a Garelick motor mount. The problem is that I can't get the mount in the full up position since the handle of the mount hits the rubrail. I'm looking to put an inch shim between the transom and the mount. I used to have a good source for UHMWPE but no more. I need suggestions on what material to use that will look good without breaking the bank.

Thanks.
Marc
 

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Hi,

you could try HDPE cutting boards. They can be cut quite neatly with a pendular saw and even bent into shape with the help of a hot air gun.
 

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Same thing, Marc. White cutting boards from the dollar store. They're not all the same and they're not a dollar anymore, but that's your best bet for a real low price on those kind of plastics.
 

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Same thing, Marc. White cutting boards from the dollar store. They're not all the same and they're not a dollar anymore, but that's your best bet for a real low price on those kind of plastics.
I read somewhere that there are interior and exterior grades of UHMWPE. That interior grades degrade in sunlight. Have you heard anything of the sort? Any way for us simple folk to differentiate between them?
 

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I read somewhere that there are interior and exterior grades of UHMWPE. That interior grades degrade in sunlight. Have you heard anything of the sort? Any way for us simple folk to differentiate between them?
Simple solution - paint it, whatever the grade.
 

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At the dollar store (or WalMart) you are buying "White plastic". Unspecified type, density, uv resistance, but it may be ten bucks instead of fifty, at which point I'd just take the risk for a simply shim that can be easily replaced if it is a mistake. And sprayed with 303 or another UV protectant as well, if you want to help the odds.

McMaster or Grainger, slab, shipping...I'm afraid to ask. Oh, I see MarkSF ran that down--for a small piece. So, maybe $80 plus shipping for a slightly wider one.

SF, you've got PAINT that will stick to polythenes??
 

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Hi,

you could try HDPE cutting boards. They can be cut quite neatly with a pendular saw and even bent into shape with the help of a hot air gun.

How will the UHMWPE boards be labelled? I'm guessing that the packaging will just say something like durable, sanitary plastic.
 

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Over here, things are pretty well marked or described on the packaging. It's not required by law (yet) but is supposed to aid recycling later on. If I for example check on the IKEA website, their £1 chopping boards are described as "Polyethylene Plastic" and you'll find the same at least on a sticky label on the item.

Most companies here follow the Resin Identification Code :



Just checked on WIKI, they state the same system is in use in North America, though my Canadian Admiral states she never saw it when she was still living over there ;)
 

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Same identification system in the US, on bottles and plastic containers. At least they look the same. I don't think you would find one on a cutting board.

Is there a starboard fabricator in your area? Sounds like you only need a piece of scrap. I would seriously consider using a piece of teak or mahogany, which can also be found in scrap.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
FinallySailing - I briefly looked around on-line. Some cutting board labels specify polyethelene but most do not. Any additional detail may say antimicrobial.

Minnewaska - I'll do more looking for a fabricator. Didn't find anyone close by but I'll ask at my marina.

Thanks All. I appreciate the help.
Marc
 

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For recycling purposes and labelling?

All the polythenes will probably be the same label. Indoor, outdoor, low density, high density, the question is whether it is any-poly-thene or not-poly-thene. Dollar store, finest export grade plastic. At that price, you know?

To be sure of what the plastic is, you'll have to order from a plastics supplier or other industrial source at matching prices. i'd also have a limited amount of faith in any label at the dollar store since one of their sources is after all mislabelled goods being sold on clearance.
 

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You don't really need much other than something solid that is thick enough. Some kind of plastic would probably be best to reduce maintenance - if you have a fiberglass shop in your area you could get a bit of G2 (prefabricated fiberglass sheet) of the proper thickness.
 

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Having the stainless bracket modified to stand off further, is probably a pretty good solution to.
 
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