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I am replacing the wire with line for my outhaul. Just wondering if instead of a knot I should use a fitting? What type fitting is usually used. Right now there is only a 5/16 hole in the outhaul car. With the wire ending in a thimble. I supose I could drill out the hole. Just wondering what the best fitting for that end is?
 

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I would use a D shackle with the out haul tied to it with a bowline.

Tod


Mandolin, Bayfield 36 sailing out of Rock Creek.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Or splice a eye on the end of the line to attach to the shackle. If you don't have enough room for a splice and a shackle, just tie it directly. Make sure you have a sheave that is good for rope (rather than wire).
 

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I concur w Stumble. Take the car off to make it easy to splice an Amsteel/Dyneema eye right onto the car. Splicing 12 strand superline could not be easier. You could even splice in a thimble the way the wire has one currently, all it would take is a couple of practice eye splices to get the measurements correct. If you're as scottish as me, rescue the thimble that's there!
 

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Ditch the car, replace w/ velcro strop. Amsteel outhaul w/ eye splice. Soft schackle to attach outhaul eye to clew.

If you have room, soft schackle a low friction ring to clew. Pass the outhaul eye through ring and back to boom end. This will give you more purchase.
 

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In your photo the aft end of the boom is to the left, correct?

You should have a small block there with a small sheave that the outhaul goes around. That is what mounted where those 4 little holes are. Something like this:
Harken

The original was probably beefier than that and used a wire-rated sheave.

I agree that dyneema is better for an outhaul than wire.
 

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Second the clew strap idea... Get rid of the car altogether.
 

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Using a clew strap like below can get rid of friction, use less hardware and (less important for cruisers) make sail removal much simpler esp with a loose foot main.

Any sailmaker can make one - they are generally some webbing with velcro on either side and wrap through the clew and around the boom 2-3 times onto itself.



The boom needs to be free of protuberances that might inhibit the sliding of the strap, but otherwise it works rather well.
 
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A 1/8 or 3/16 amsteel line with an eye splice is what you need to replace the wire. You could splice it in place pretty easily or get a d shackle to attach it.
Doesn't Amsteel still need a eye, thimble (or whatever that thing the wire is siting in in the picture)? Or can you splice it directly to the metal. I have a similar situation where I will be fastening Amsteel to a Eyestrap.

Also, in the Amsteel description on the Defender site, it says the line should be covered when used with winches and blocks. What is the covering they are referring to?

Whats the best way to slice the 3/16 Amsteel to a 3/8 line?
 

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You can splice it directly to the ring. The best evidence right now indicates that at 1:1 D:d there is no reduction in strength. The other issue here is that the strength of the amsteel is so high it really doesn't matter much. If you are really worried about chaff throw an eye slice on a thimble then use a dyneema soft shackle between the line and the ring.

Amsteel is incredibly slippery stuff (lower friction actually than Teflon) which means it doesn't hold well on cleats and winches, but it's fine over sheaves and actually fine in cam cleats.


Splicing instructions for amsteel are very easy (it is the easiest thing I have ever spliced). Just do a google search for 'eye splice amsteel')
 
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