[MarkofSeaLife]

Hi Folks,

I did part of the galley a year or two ago where it gets wet and I need to do it again.
Its the 'teak' splash back, fiddles and surrounds.

Is this the domain of the 2 Pack Polyurethanes?


Thanks for the advice.


Mark

 

[MarkSF]

What did you use last time? I would have thought that spar varnish is as waterproof as anything else.

 

[Multihullgirl]

I'd do that with clear epoxy

 

[desert rat]

Either polyurathane or oil.

 

[MarkofSeaLife]

2 part polyurathane? Or one part?

 

[JimMcGee]

Mark,
I did six coats of wiping poly on ours and it's held up well. I used Minwax but I'm sure whatever you can find locally would work as well.

Minwax Wipe-On Poly Clear Satin

Jim

 

[Skipper Jer]

Shouldn't one wipe down teak with say acetone prior to the application of either varnish or a polyurethane in order to remove teak oil?

 

[RichH]

The best for wet interior applications is old-fashioned *HARD* or "bar top" varnish. Such will be VERY difficult to find unless you can find a 'real' paint store, preferably with the proprietor older than God, who will MAKE it for you.
The modern equivalent is an epoxy bar-top finish, but is hell to apply to vertical surfaces ... needing many 'thin' coats or you get dribs and runs; horizontal surfaces are ideal. Many of the 'classy' restaurants and saloons use epoxide bar-top finishes.

Id avoid soft/flexible spar varnish (either 'regular' or catalyzed 2-part) as its easily dinged and marred and will turn 'whitish' when soaked with water. Oil finish? ... you have to be kidding, even varnish-filed ('resinated') oil finishes.

https://www.blpmobilepaint.com/pds/p70-51.pdf

 

[mitiempo]

I did the galley of a boat I used to own in ash and teak including the counter tops. I put on 3 coats of epoxy sanding between coats and then 4 or 5 coats of Epifanes. Looked good 10 years later.

Without the epoxy water can get under the varnish and once the wood is wet the varnish lifts.