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Hi Folks,

I did part of the galley a year or two ago where it gets wet and I need to do it again.
Its the 'teak' splash back, fiddles and surrounds.

Is this the domain of the 2 Pack Polyurethanes?


Thanks for the advice. :)


Mark
 

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Mark,
I did six coats of wiping poly on ours and it's held up well. I used Minwax but I'm sure whatever you can find locally would work as well.

Minwax Wipe-On Poly Clear Satin



Jim
 

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Shouldn't one wipe down teak with say acetone prior to the application of either varnish or a polyurethane in order to remove teak oil?
 
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The best for wet interior applications is old-fashioned *HARD* or "bar top" varnish. Such will be VERY difficult to find unless you can find a 'real' paint store, preferably with the proprietor older than God, who will MAKE it for you.
The modern equivalent is an epoxy bar-top finish, but is hell to apply to vertical surfaces ... needing many 'thin' coats or you get dribs and runs; horizontal surfaces are ideal. Many of the 'classy' restaurants and saloons use epoxide bar-top finishes.

Id avoid soft/flexible spar varnish (either 'regular' or catalyzed 2-part) as its easily dinged and marred and will turn 'whitish' when soaked with water. Oil finish? ... you have to be kidding, even varnish-filed ('resinated') oil finishes.

https://www.blpmobilepaint.com/pds/p70-51.pdf
 

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I did the galley of a boat I used to own in ash and teak including the counter tops. I put on 3 coats of epoxy sanding between coats and then 4 or 5 coats of Epifanes. Looked good 10 years later.

Without the epoxy water can get under the varnish and once the wood is wet the varnish lifts.
 
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