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not much at all,remove the fuel lines [to the injectors and from the transfer pump],remove throttle linkage and the 2 retaining bolts,note the timing shims!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm sending it out for rebuild. Sent the injectors in, they had lots of corrosion. Looks like I having governor problems with the injection pump.
This is a yanmar 2gm. Aside from the 4 nuts up top and the fuel lines I can't see anything else to remove but don't want to break anything.
My backround is with vw diesels. I don't have much background with these yanmars and up until recently haven't had to do much to mine other than service...
 

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the lines are easiest to remove by using a wrench to hold and another to turn,if you arrange them fairly close together then use one hand to squeeze,i would strongly advise you to get a mechanic's manual for that engine,its been a long time since i worked on a 2gm but i'm fairly sure about the shims,it may require retiming
 

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Sawingknots is correct on the use of timing shims for the reinstallation of the injection pump. A manual is a must read for this project.
 

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Many could save themselves a lot of grief by treating their IP to a little Dexron I or II (and no higher) ATF at every oil change to keep the IP clean and well lubricated.

I have a 4FB1 Isuzu Diesel which was used in cars, trucks, boats, generators and industrial equipment that I thought was going to need to have an IP rebuild and the old timer I took it too to ask about what it would cost to get the pump rebuilt pulled me aside and told me to drain the fuel filter, refill it with either Dexron I or II, start it for a moment turning it off immediately, wait 30 minutes and then start it again taking it for a ride because that will be what they would do before removing the pump to see if it really needed rebuilding.

The pump no longer needed rebuilding or any adjustment after that and I have added that procedure to my standard oil change schedule. There is over 1/2 million miles on the engine and the pump still has not required a rebuild. Dexron I or II is highly detergent but does not contain a high amount of friction modifiers so it will lubricate the seals along with clean the pump without damaging it. If you use Dexron III and above or any other more highly friction modified ATF you could create problems which us why this is limited to only Dexron I or II.

Farmers and boatsmen have done this to reduce IP problem with their diesels for about 40 years now.
 

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I love the digital age!
As a licensed chief engineer, I'm fairly mechanically adept, but even with a shop manual, I find it isn't a bad thing to document any engine (or boat parts) disassembly with pictures. From undoing the first screw or bolt to showing the washers on that screw or bolt, everything is documented for reassembly.
Maybe that's why I still have a mostly full head of hair? lol
 
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