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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I know this sounds like a typical question, but I searched and searched but couldnt really find any answer that really pertained to my issue.
Ok, so I have my stanchions removed and have been faced with the issue of how to seal these buggers up. So, most stanchion bases I've seen, sit completely flat to the deck, with the entire footprint making contact. My bases on the other hand only make contact on the perimeter, as the base is actually hollow with an interior height of a bit less than 1/4". I've considered the typical butyl tape solution, but I only forsee it being cut off by the edge of the base and ultimately having no function. The idea of also just filling the base up with butyl or a sealant has crossed my mind but that seems a little amateur. Ultimately, the answer that seems to make sense is to cut a rubber gasket the size of the base to make the seal, but I've read that many people frown upon that execution. Does anyone have any ideas?? I just wanna get back on the water!
 

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Ticon 30
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I believe butyl is the way to go. The only thing you have to worry about is water getting into the deck thru the screw holes. Make sure they are chamfered and use lots of butyl.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's going to take an excessive amount of butyl though, like probably a whole 30 foot roll for the 6 bases. Has anyone here been in this exact situation?
 

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Daniel - Norsea 27
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Butyl could be good as it works by compression.

Another option is Dolfinite. It's a semi-paste (I think that's how it's described). You can put it down at the base, tighten the bolts just enough to hold it in place. Then, once it dries, you can tighten more and the compression will help seal it from water. I have some, but haven't used it (yet). I opened the can and the dried layer on top had a rubber feel that could be compressed and was flexible.
 

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I think we're having trouble understanding the mounting surface of your stanchions. Can you give some details on how wide the actual contact surface is? A picture would be very useful, too. VERY useful.
 

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Living the dream
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Are the bolts/screws going to pass across the void? If so, maybe try using non-hardening windscreen mastic to fill the voids.
 

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The bases sound like the hollow castingstypically used in chrome-over-zinc rail bases.. I've filled the voids with butyl tape. It really doesn't take that much.. Another product to look into *might* be a butyl caulk used in rubber roofing called "water cut-off mastic". Sticky, nasty,goopy and never dries.. The more presssure the better tthe hold...but it works! Last I bought was $6 per 11 oz tube.fills a lot of stanchion bases! ;_
 

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I am also having difficulty understanding what you are trying to accomplish here. Aside from the bolts that mount the bases to the deck, why would you want to seal up the bases? Water will get in to the tubes from above and only fill them without an egress point anyway. That would cause rusting inside the Stantion bases.

Tod
 

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Irrationally Exuberant
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I'm not sure I totally understand your setup, but yeah, it sounds like you should be worrying less about the bases and more about whatever goes through the deck--that's where you want your seal. Do screws go through the 4 corners?
 

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Corsair 24
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Im sealing mine up with sikalfkex 1a construction polyuethane...great stuff 1/4 the price of crappy 5200 and easy to work with

here is a pic



Ill let you know in a year or so if they leak

ps its not really what sealant or method is best, its attention to detail that makes it work or not

for me thats new backing plates, cleaned and polished bases, potted an redrilled holes, cleaned and sanded surfaces, and in my opinion perfectly ok sealant....

if I would of had it my way mains butyl tape would of been it but to expensive to get down here after all the hoops you have to go through...

bummer
 

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I am also having difficulty understanding what you are trying to accomplish here. Aside from the bolts that mount the bases to the deck, why would you want to seal up the bases? Water will get in to the tubes from above and only fill them without an egress point anyway. That would cause rusting inside the Stantion bases.

Tod
an issue bases have is some dont have drain holes...its a good point to check your tube where they meet the base...if there is no drain or pee hole simply drill one very small one about 2-3 mm off the base so you dont weaken it too much...

thats what Im doing at least:)
 

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Have you considered filling the stantion bases with epoxy, to make a flat surface? The sealant would then have a large surface area to work over.

If you thickened the epoxy with colloidal silica you could do it in situ.
 

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I'm a little confused why no one (Rhapsody-NS27 has it, but hasn't used it yet) uses the one product specifically designed for bedding things on boats, any more. Bedding compound. I've used it for over 50 years for bedding things, from stanchions to gene tracks and have never had any problems with it. It is easy to use, cheap to buy and easy to clean up, using turps.
 
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Hey guys, I know this sounds like a typical question, but I searched and searched but couldnt really find any answer that really pertained to my issue.
Ok, so I have my stanchions removed and have been faced with the issue of how to seal these buggers up. So, most stanchion bases I've seen, sit completely flat to the deck, with the entire footprint making contact. My bases on the other hand only make contact on the perimeter, as the base is actually hollow with an interior height of a bit less than 1/4". I've considered the typical butyl tape solution, but I only forsee it being cut off by the edge of the base and ultimately having no function. The idea of also just filling the base up with butyl or a sealant has crossed my mind but that seems a little amateur. Ultimately, the answer that seems to make sense is to cut a rubber gasket the size of the base to make the seal, but I've read that many people frown upon that execution. Does anyone have any ideas?? I just wanna get back on the water!
Personally I would cut some G-10 bases slightly larger than your existing bases then bed between the G-10 and deck. Those old hokey hollow bases are what they are and they are and can be a real pita...

You can entirely fill them with butyl but this is time consuming to not leave any voids and do it right.... Pack, compress, pack compress etc. etc....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
hey guys! For those of you who are confused on what my bases look like, they look like any other base, with four bolts penetrating at each corner, but ofcourse as the problem has it, the base is hollow. I wish I could take some pictures for you, but shes across town. How can I describe this. Ok so imagine a tupperwear container like the kind you would put a sandwich in. If you take the container (with the top removed for this example) and flip it upside-down there will be a chamber of air on the bottomside, yet all edges still touch the table it sits on...this is how my stanchion base have been cast.

Ok so I like this idea about filling the bases with epoxy, but the reality of the messiness of the experience and the cost of epoxy makes it less than exciting. So I guess the next question is, what is actual bedding compound, and what is this G-10 you speak of, Maine sail?

On another topic, I purchased a couple rolls of butyl tape on amazon and was told by one of the (self proclaimed) experts at my marina that it wasnt the real stuff...any clue? Amazon.com: Dicor (BT-1834-1) 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape: [email protected]@[email protected]@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/[email protected]@[email protected]@51ZwdcW-pgL

btw thanks for all the comments and advice. It has all been read multiple times and I love the fact that I can come to this community for any wisdom you collectively have.
 

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Captain S/V Triumph
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I used Starboard between the stanchion bases and the deck, and cut pieces larger than the feet of the stanchions so that would distribute the forces wider across the deck, so as not to crack the gel coat.

I also squirted epoxy into the areas between the deck surface and the underside, where the balsa wood is sandwiched, so that any water wicking into the wood from the screws would be halted.

Ideally, you would replace the wooden core with epoxy for an area roughly a foot around each stanchion base. But, we generally don't have access to that much area until the wood gets totally ruined and we bite the bullet and cut into the deck. :-(
 

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Mizra, I don't know how you'd argue what is "the real stuff" much less whether there aren't other kinds that would work as well. But I am Real Damn Sure that picture from Amazon shows some very old stock, or some stock that should have been rejected and surplussed. Once you see that kind of funky roll instead of a smooth scircular spool of any kind of tape? It means there's uneven tension in the roll, typically from old, overheated, stretched (badly wound) etc. tape. Same thing will happen to a ten year old roll of masking tape.

In theory butyl tape is forever, but whatever that is, it is not prime quality material.

Properly sealing the holes in the deck, properly repairing any damage in the deck coring, and properly installing backing plates under the deck, will all be necessary if you want the work to be waterproof. Sealing the stanchion base itself, is icing on the cake compared to all that.
 

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Mizra To fill the under side of your bases with epoxy you only have to put a piece of tape over the hole in the under side! check to make sure your stanchions don't extend below the hole. I did mine this way! Just turn them upside down, pour in the epoxy just slightly over full to allow for shrinkage when the epoxy cures. If it is slightly high you can sand of the excess. Then follow Maine Sails thread here to do the rest!
 

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Daniel - Norsea 27
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I'm a little confused why no one (Rhapsody-NS27 has it, but hasn't used it yet) uses the one product specifically designed for bedding things on boats, any more. Bedding compound. I've used it for over 50 years for bedding things, from stanchions to gene tracks and have never had any problems with it. It is easy to use, cheap to buy and easy to clean up, using turps.
I got mine for rebidding my deck hardware sometime. Not that anything is leaking but just to ensure it doesn't. Some things on my boat is due a refit. The Dolfinite I mentioned has also been recommended by many other Nor'sea owners. I appreciate your take on it as being reliable as well.
 
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