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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just a quick question ... I'm using 40mm PVC pipe instead of leather on my oars (where they pass through the oar locks). I tried fixing a ring of PVC pipe to prevent the oar from sliding through the oar lock, but the PVC pipe glue didn't last long. I was thinking of fixing it with thickened epoxy. Does anyone know if epoxy will glue PVC pipe?

Thanks in advance!
 

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No, epoxy will not stick. Gorilla glue, urethane may work. But nothing like a screw or nut and bolt to hold it in place..KISS
 

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From the kiteboard industry, PVC is sometimes used around the perimeter of a kiteboard. Then the glass/epoxy is vacuum bagged to the PVC. The bond is made by first roughing the PVC with something like 80 grit paper. Then the flame from a propane torch is passed over the PVC just prior to vacuum bagging. I am not sure what treating the PVC with a flame does to help this. You could probably do a search online and get more information. Many kiteboards are manufactured using this process and the bond seems to hold well. I've used one extensively for about 3 years...no delamination as yet.

On the other hand, I don't trust doing this myself, as treating the PVC with a flame seems to be close to an art-form.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think I'll try roughing it up and using epoxy. If t doesn't work, i can always try the gorilla glue or screws... Thanks for the replies.
 

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I tried to gorilla glue a piece of plywood to cured fiberglass. It did not stick. In fact I just peeled the last piece of gorilla glue off of the fiberglass. Was not difficult.
 

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Rough sand with coarse (40) sand paper, wipe clean then clean with PVC pipe joint cleaner. If using woven fiber glass mat roll the mat into a generous coating of PVC pipe joint adhesive and let cure for 20-30 mins before the adding epoxy.
 

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I had to glue up 2 layers of starboard - needed a thicker piece, used a specific epoxy,(I believe it was Lord 363) but I also had to pass a flame over the 2 pieces before I applied the epoxy. Strong as hell now.

Here's what King Starboard says about using a flame - maybe it will work for the PVC also -
"Following the operating cautions of your propane torch, ignite the flame.
Working in a safe and well-ventilated area, hold the torch so the flame is approximately one to two inches or two and a half to five centimeters away and the blue, oxidizing portion of the flame is on the StarBoard surface to be bonded. Pass the flame over the surface at a rate of approximately twelve inches or thirty centimeters per three seconds.
Total time the material should be exposed to the flame should be two to three seconds, about one half second per stroke.
This light exposure should not deform or melt the polymer in any way. You may see a “shadowing” effect as the flame passes across the surface, this is normal.
Make sure to let the polymer cool before proceeding.
Test the effectiveness of your flame treatment of the surface by wetting it with water.
If the water beads up like on a freshly waxed car, the treatment was not effective. If the water “sheets” or lays flat on the surface, like on an un-waxed car, the treatment was effective and the surface is ready for bonding. If you are unsure if the surface is ready, compare the water’s action on treated area with the untreated area.
For the best adhesion, bond the product within thirty minutes of treatment as the flame treatment is temporary and declines in effectiveness with time. If you get interrupted and cannot complete the bonding within an hour or two you should re-treat the surface again before proceeding."
 

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Conventional epoxies do not stick to PVC, but there are some new ones that do, including some of the ones on the retail shelf in hardware stores. No idea which brands make it down your way, but here the tip off is that they will say "WORKS ON PLASTIC LAWN FURNITURE" or something similar on the packaging.

PVC pipe glue is not really a glue, it will not work on any other materials. It is actually a solvent, and when you use PVC cleaner plus glue, it fusion welds the two pieces of PVC making them into one piece after it kicks off. Useless for joining PVC to anything else though.

Since you don't say what your oars are made of...We're up the paddle without a creek?

But I wouldn't waste my time trying ANY epoxy unless it specifically said "FOR PVC" on the label. Even if that meant mail-ordering one.
 

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I should have taken a photo of one of my spring projects before it went in the boat. I used West System epoxy and the West System filleting blend to make a good strong joint between epoxy coated plywood and a PVC pipe fitting.

I roughed it up with 40 grit sandpaper and hit it with just a little bit of acetone before putting down a thick peanut-butter consistency fillet around the pipe.

I thought for sure it would pop off, but it is STRONG. I didn't do any destructive testing, but there was no way I was going to break it off by hand.

In my opinion this is fine for non-load-bearing connections that you want to be permanent and water tight. I would not trust it for anything structural or anything that takes a load, but that is true for PVC in general.

My advice:

1. Peanut butter thick with filleting blend or something similar
2. Sand with 40 grit and clean the PVC lightly with acetone
3. Cover as much surface area as you can on the sanded PVC with the epoxy mix -- you are looking for a mechanical bond to the roughed-up PVC.

Unless of course you are gluing PVC to PVC then just use the purple primer and the PVC cement from the hardware store!

Scott.
 

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If you're trying to glue pvc pipe to wooden oars just use 5200.
Unless you want to be able to disassemble them, then screw them together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just to clarify things. The oars are made of wood. I put a sleeve of split PVC pipe (about 10cm long) over the oar where it passes through the oar lock. I glued it with PVC glue and it seems to be holding. Then I cut some rings from another PVC pipe to make the oar stopper. I glued them with the same PVC glue, but they didn't hold. Maybe they don't have enough surface area to get a good bond. I think I have some Gorilla glue on the boat, so I may try that.
 

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The PVC to PVC should be done with the PVC cleaner and PVC glue. Leave at least 1" of contact area for the ring, 1-1/2" would be better. The ring need to be a tight fit, no gap. Throw a hose clamp around it for 24 hrs, till fully cured.
 

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I just finished and installed my new oars. I opted to go simple and cheap. I used 3/8 three-strand line and just put in a tight clove hitch. Cut close. whipped and seized on each side and back. A few brass tacks and VOILA!
Doesn'thelpya glueyours' but gives an alternative for when you get frustrated with materialsyear usingg. ;)
 

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Just to clarify things. The oars are made of wood. I put a sleeve of split PVC pipe (about 10cm long) over the oar where it passes through the oar lock. I glued it with PVC glue and it seems to be holding. Then I cut some rings from another PVC pipe to make the oar stopper. I glued them with the same PVC glue, but they didn't hold. Maybe they don't have enough surface area to get a good bond. I think I have some Gorilla glue on the boat, so I may try that.
It sounds like the ring you used as a stopper had the same radius as the pipe you glued it to, which would make it want to peel off. Why not use part of a coupler which has an inside radius that matches the outside radius of the pipe? Then the fit is very good and if you weld it with PVC cement, it is often impossible to break apart the "weld" at the joint. It is just as likely to break through either of the pieces first.
 
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