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I have the mast down on my PSC 37 and, among other things, I am rewiring LED anchor light (light is good, failure was in the wire connection, likely b/c of a lack of strain relief). The anchor light mounts on top of the 1/2" x 4" metal post welded to the top of the mast. The Anchor light is a Signal Mate and the base with integrated wire fits over the top of the post, so the wiring never really exits the mast (pix below shows post with anchor light removed, but you can see how it fits on, the black tape is the messenger line ready to remove existing wire)

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Has anyone figured out a strain relief solution for this situation? The issue is mostly the weight of the 44' of wire hanging down the mast.

Same issue for the steaming light on the front of the mast about 30 feet up. For the steaming light, the wires go through a small hole in the mast and then through an even smaller hole in the conduit wiring chase. I plan to use heat shrink tubing for chafe protection, but again there is no way to access the spot to install a strain relief device.
 

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I was going to suggest coiling the end of the wire into a spiral and pushing it into the metal tube so there would be a 'friction fit' keeping the pull of the wire from getting to the light contacts, but came up with a better idea. Run the top end of the wire through a cork or rubber stopper. Make sure the cork fits tightly in the tube so the weight of the wire won't pull it down. Push the cork with the wire through it down into the tube so there's enough wire to make a knot above the cork, to keep the wire from pulling on the connection. Wire up the connection, making sure there's some slack in the space between the top of the cork and the contacts. To ensure being able to remove the cork you might want to put a knot below the cork as well, so you could pull it up by the wire. Should work better than what you have now.
 

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Barquito
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How about this: drill two holes in that tube about 90 degrees apart. Make the holes just big enough to get a fairly beefy zip tie through. Thread it through so the cable will be pressed against the side of the tube. I think the black zip ties are more UV resistant. If that doesn't work, fill the whole mast with expanding foam. :)
 

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I was going to suggest coiling the end of the wire into a spiral and pushing it into the metal tube so there would be a 'friction fit' keeping the pull of the wire from getting to the light contacts, but came up with a better idea. Run the top end of the wire through a cork or rubber stopper. Make sure the cork fits tightly in the tube so the weight of the wire won't pull it down. Push the cork with the wire through it down into the tube so there's enough wire to make a knot above the cork, to keep the wire from pulling on the connection. Wire up the connection, making sure there's some slack in the space between the top of the cork and the contacts. To ensure being able to remove the cork you might want to put a knot below the cork as well, so you could pull it up by the wire. Should work better than what you have now.
That is exactly what I was thinking. I would go with a rubber stopper or tapered grommet such as the type you would find in a wire gland. It would also serve to waterproof the conduit.

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Barquito
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Cork idea 2.0: Make a hole in the center of the cork that is no bigger than the diameter of the wire. Cut a slice from the side of the cork to the hole on one side that has some thickness (maybe 1/8"). When you jam the cork into the tube, it will squeeze down on the wire... and slather it in 5200. Just kidding about that last bit.

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Yes. I have too much time on my hands.
 

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Cork idea 2.0: Make a hole in the center of the cork that is no bigger than the diameter of the wire. Cut a slice from the side of the cork to the hole on one side that has some thickness (maybe 1/8"). When you jam the cork into the tube, it will squeeze down on the wire... and slather it in 5200. Just kidding about that last bit.

View attachment 144587

Yes. I have too much time on my hands.
That is pretty much what a cable gland seal looks like except it is rubber not cork.

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If you are trying to provide "strain relief" what you are trying to do is take the weight off the wire and its connections. I solve this by lacing a thin (1/8") line in with the wiring for the mast and us that line to support the wire for the full length of the assembly. Then tie the line off at the top
 
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