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I have an 81 Islander Bahama 30. The front edge of the companionway cover is now contacting the deck of the boat and wearing away at the anti skid. Apparently the edges of the cover, and/or the track it runs in have worn down to a point that enables this. To remove the cover and build up either of the mating surfaces, I'd have to remove one or both of the teak rails that hold down the cover. This would be somewhat of a pain.

Any thoughts on how to build this up without removing the cover? I got some sticky back 3/4" x 10' teflon strips from Woodcraft but they are only about a 32nd of an inch thick and I'm skeptical that I can install them in a way that will be effective.
 

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Removing those teak strips is a simple thing and will make your repair successful. The bungs just split and come out. Do it carefully so you don't damage the edges of the holes. An ice pick is a good persuader. It shouldn't take you 10 minutes to get them out and back out the screws. Replacing the bungs is simple, too. Buy a small bag of the correct size bungs. I use a little thinned varnish to "glue" the new bung in. Line up the grain of the bung with the grain in the trim and tap it down tightly with a hard plastic hammer. After it dries you can trim down the new bungs to the shape of the surface of the trim.

I don't hesitate to remove bungs when I need to get behind some trim.

GF
 

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Does varnish really work as an adhesive? At the shop we use wood glue or epoxy to fasten the bungs in, then chisel the excess bung off, sand it flush and revarnish
 

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I used strips of polycarbonate layed under the formerly teak (now starboard) pieces that cover the running rails of the companionway slide. You can do the same and keep the teak:
I also cut out a skylight that is overlayed with smoked lexan where I formerly had teak. I like a lot of maintenance free plastic on my "chlorox bottle",- anyway ...polycarbonate for the runners as a glide surface. 'take care and joy, Aythya crew
 

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Does varnish really work as an adhesive? At the shop we use wood glue or epoxy to fasten the bungs in, then chisel the excess bung off, sand it flush and revarnish
With a properly matched quality drill bit and plug cutter, glues are not required unless the bung is excessively thin. A bit of varnish to help is fine, in many cases dry fitting works just as well if the hole is deep enough (say 1/4" or so).

Subsequent removal is much easier and cleaner if no glue is used.
 

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Hello Captain Force, a couple of questions, first where do you get polycarbonate? Second how do you secure it to the fiberglass? Third, how long have you used it, and how well does it wear?
Thank you.
SoontooBcruiser
 
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