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I suggest that you ask Moyer Marine to make a larger standpipe for you.
Do not forget that you will need a flex section connected to the engine as the engine will move a little on the flex mounts while the standpipe is fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I suggest that you ask Moyer Marine to make a larger standpipe for you.
Do not forget that you will need a flex section connected to the engine as the engine will move a little on the flex mounts while the standpipe is fixed.
So the 2” ID wire reinforced wet exhaust hose running from the riser to the standpipe would not be enough? I did find a 304 stainless flex bellows in 2” ID but it only has provisions for a single hose clamp on each side; which does not meet ABYC standards of two clamps on each side for all exhaust and fuel line.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Bit of confusion here as it looks like even with a standpipe there will still be a large and long section of exhaust hose connecting the standpipe to the exhaust riser, allowing whatever water in in there to back flow into the riser on a port tack. I’m trying to understand this system before just dropping $ on a bunch of new parts that may or may not solve the intermittent issue. Or is it literally that the water in the waterlift is draining into the manifold; the hose itself not holding enough water to overwhelm the manifold and back flood the cylinder?

Edit- it’s only happened a handful of times in over 7k miles so the system as installed must be borderline; only when certain conditions are met does it fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Furthermore, it looks like the original A4 didn’t have water injected into the exhaust system until the standpipe, basically at the top. This resulted in a very hot exhaust pipe from the engine to the standpipe. Charring is evident from decades ago. The Yanmar otoh injects water at the exhaust elbow. Wouldn’t this basically work against the principle of the standpipe in the first place by placing water in the low hose from riser to standpipe? It would seem that I’d have to run the water feed directly to the standpipe and then block off the inlet/outlet on the riser. But doesn’t the riser need this water to keep cool? TBH the exhaust system layout on a T34C absolutely sucks.
 

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alanr77. Some points to remember.
1) The Atomic 4 was hard bolted to the engine beds (no flex mounts) so it did not need a flexible section between the engine and the standpipe.
2) you cannot use regular exhaust hose between the engine and the standpipe as it is not able to withstand the heat. It is only to be used after the water injection point.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
alanr77. Some points to remember.
1) The Atomic 4 was hard bolted to the engine beds (no flex mounts) so it did not need a flexible section between the engine and the standpipe.
2) you cannot use regular exhaust hose between the engine and the standpipe as it is not able to withstand the heat. It is only to be used after the water injection point.
Understood.

Having stared at it for the last couple weeks and looking at various install pictures on the T34C owners forum, I definitely think I want to stay away from the original pipes leading from the riser to the waterlift/ or in this case standpipe. Too much heat introduced and the charring on the wood where the original exhaust routed for the A4 confirms this.

Another owner used a slightly different Vetus waterlift in their install and it has the inlet a couple inches lower than mine. This combined with the ability to have a continuous downward slope of the 2” exhaust hose may be just the little bit of difference to make it work.

So current plan is to:

Replace the mixing elbow as it’s original to the engine. Seems fine when inspecting it but can’t hurt as this is a known weak point on the engine.

Install a 2” bronze ball valve just under the mixing elbow as a precaution, preventing any water from flowing back.

Install the different style Vetus waterlift, shown in the attached picture, to create a downward sloping exhaust hose.

Replace all the worm clamps with TBolt style which I’ve been wanting to do for some time now. I’ll replace the exhaust hose as well.

Install new 5/8 water feed hose from the manifold to the riser with a new anti-siphon valve. I’ve rebuilt the one in it twice now. Can’t hurt.

This combination attack will either fail completely or make the little bit of difference needed to keep this system working 100% of the time.
 

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My previous boat had a Universal 5411 with a fairly tall exhaust loop made up of black iron pipe fittings and pipe nipples. Water injection was about halfway down the outlet side. The exhaust from the engine to the water injection was wrapped with high temperature insulation. Worked fine.
 

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Understood.

Having stared at it for the last couple weeks and looking at various install pictures on the T34C owners forum, I definitely think I want to stay away from the original pipes leading from the riser to the waterlift/ or in this case standpipe. Too much heat introduced and the charring on the wood where the original exhaust routed for the A4 confirms this.

Another owner used a slightly different Vetus waterlift in their install and it has the inlet a couple inches lower than mine. This combined with the ability to have a continuous downward slope of the 2” exhaust hose may be just the little bit of difference to make it work.

So current plan is to:

Replace the mixing elbow as it’s original to the engine. Seems fine when inspecting it but can’t hurt as this is a known weak point on the engine.

Install a 2” bronze ball valve just under the mixing elbow as a precaution, preventing any water from flowing back.

Install the different style Vetus waterlift, shown in the attached picture, to create a downward sloping exhaust hose.

Replace all the worm clamps with TBolt style which I’ve been wanting to do for some time now. I’ll replace the exhaust hose as well.

Install new 5/8 water feed hose from the manifold to the riser with a new anti-siphon valve. I’ve rebuilt the one in it twice now. Can’t hurt.

This combination attack will either fail completely or make the little bit of difference needed to keep this system working 100% of the time.
The exact water lift muffler I replaced our original SS one with. We have the Yanmar 3GMF . The vetus require a little more water so it takes a tiny amount longer to here the splash of exhaust. Never had you issue with positioning. I like the Vetus products.
 
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