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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
MY YANMAR 3YM30 IS SHAKING ITSELF TO BITS. It is 9 years old and 3000 hours and has run perfectly until 30 hours ago. The engine runs perfectly in neutral to full RPM. It also runs smoothly in reverse at all speeds. In forward gear, it runs ok until I shift into neutral and try to shift back into forward.

Then the engine starts to shake at 1000rpm and shakes horribly and starts a clacking / grinding noise at anything over 1200 rpm. It is truly frightening

On the advice of the Singapore dealer, I replaced the engine mounts and vibration damper. No improvement at all.

Finding an available mechanic here is very difficult, so any suggestions what to look into would be most appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re going to CLLS in Sing, I did haul the tranny there and the head mechanic said he didn't think so from his exterior testing. Altho they would inspect it for $500. He suggested new mounts and the spring loaded plate [ vibration damper ] were most likely at fault. Not so.

Listening via hose says its a problem in tranny, but could also be injector pump needs help when under load, causing one cylinder to miss, which could cause shaking. But that clacking noise , even at low RPM makes me wonder

I would agree that bent shaft or buggered prop should be the problem, but it is a fixed 3 blade Michigan wheel that feels fine.

I'm thinking tranny [ sound ] or injector pump [ shaking ]

Your help is appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Singapore dealer visually inspected tranny, said damage unlikely.

Shifter checked, all fine.

Vibration damper is a spring loaded plate which absorbs shock from tranny shifting. Cost $350. No joy

Fixed 3 blade Michigan wheel is fine, likewise shaft.

Problem appears to be injector pump, injectors, and tranny. Tho no problems when revving in neutral or full throttle in reverse. Also no problem when cold engine or above 2000RPM.

Most worrisome is incredible shaking and clacking noise at 1200 to 1900 RPM in forward gear
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Singapore dealer visually inspected tranny, said damage unlikely.

Shifter checked, all fine.

Vibration damper is a spring loaded plate which absorbs shock from tranny shifting. Cost $350. No joy

Fixed 3 blade Michigan wheel is fine, likewise shaft.

Problem appears to be injector pump, injectors, and tranny. Tho no problems when revving in neutral or full throttle in reverse. Also no problem when cold engine or above 2000RPM.

Most worrisome is incredible shaking and clacking noise at 1200 to 1900 RPM in forward gear
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That's my very next step on Monday. I'll let you know how it goes. Tho the engine runs fine [ in neutral ], up to 3600 RPM. Under load, all heck breaks loose. Gotta be something in fuel system causing it to knock. All fuel filters clean, but maybe not injector pump , lines or injectors.

Thanks, Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
TO Christian in Sing; I'm in Danga Bay. Tranny works fine in reverse. CLLS has been way less than helpful. No response to emails or phone calls. They also misplaced my account which had $1000 in it [ later found in a wriitten ledger ].

Your suggestions have been most very helpful. Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Now we're getting close !!! Alignment, shaft , prop are excellent and the engine works perfectly in reverse.

The shake / clunk describes my situation perfectly. I have a 3YM30 and previously a 3GM30, the gearbox is the same as the 2GM20. So gearbox was my original thought also.

So here's the deal from my viewpoint; Haul gearbox and bell housing 3 1/2 hour to Singapore Yanmar. Be told that Yanmar gearbox doesn't fail, buy $700 worth of useless parts on their recommendation. Be told they lost my $1000 account, spend 4 hours getting the parts back to the boat in Johor Bahru. Re install and find situation unchanged.

I was told that an 'inspection ' would cost $120/hour and a four hour minimum, plus tax. I'm certainly going to have someone tear apart the gearbox, but I have zero confidence in CLLS Yanmar.

IF anyone could recommend a different workshop to fix the tranny, in the Sing apore / Johore Bahru area, I would be most grateful

Telephone 60 111 451 0066 Malaysia cell

Dave on Meander
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I have a shop manual for both 3YM30 and 3GM 30. The newer 3YM30 has no transmission section at all. The fuel system has checked out fine. Gearbox now at Dalac Marine with Simon.I'll know by this time tomorrow what the verdict is.

Thanks for all your help. After 2 circumnavigations and 30 years cruising, I thought I knew everything. You folks have given me a great dose of humility.

Cheers, Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Engine mechanic here in JB says engine is perfect.

Dalac Marine says tranny fine, but no mention of price for inspection and now says they are trying to get a price for cone clutch at my request.

It is incredibly hard to understand Simon's English and I still have no estimates of any kind. Nor any emails.

To sum up at this point; Engine guy says all is fine. Tranny guy says all is fine. I wish I knew what to do.

Next to call Bobby EE at Esgrit

Further note; alignment is within 2 thousands of an inch. I dived the prop and there is no measureable damage and shaft turns freely. Water too dirty to be precise, but the prop is well protected and total shaft is only 23 inches long. Cutlass bearing has only tiny amount of play.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
And the winners who made the right call;

Paulin Victoria - cable adjustment. Unlike older 3GM30, the new 3YM30 has only one hole in shift arm. Solution - drill another hole closer to pivot shaft of shift arm. Morse 33C cables simple can't swing that far to positively engage gear. I have a feeling there will be more problems like this in the future as the 3YM30 ages on other peoples boats.

ChristianHess - For the early and correct call that the clacking sound is a dead giveaway. Plus welcome advice on how to get it fixed,

Redline - For an exact call on cone wear. In this case it was a 3" conical washer with a 2"" hole in the center. About 10 thousands of an inch thick. It has about 1/32 inch wear on the outer edge. Defenitly the cause of shaking / clattering.

Trantor - picks the gearbox and says who to see.

Here's an attaboy to all you winners.:

The solution; replace that cone washer, which is a problem. Not available in Sing or Malaysia until 2 months.

I'm thinking that a simple switch of reverse and forward cone will at least give me forward gear and I can live without reverse for a while if parts don't appear.

Note,repair labor in Johor Bahru is $120 US and in Sing is $400 US.

All advice as to how to get these cones is welcome. I'll have part numbers and exact name in 3 days.

Terrific help from you all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I've done a fair bit of lathe work, but this one would be nasty, no specs, exacting taper, complicated mill jig, tempered steel, looks like a coating also. I have cutting tools with me, but nobody will let me rent their lathe.

I will ask at the shop if they can try. There's no quit in me, Ill get 'er done.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
So now I'm confused.

My tranny guys say the problem is the thin cone shaped washer which is actually outside the clutch cone. It rides somehow against a ' collar ' which buts into the cone clutch. On the main shaft, you first see bearing, then this cone shaped thing, then a 1/4" thick washer, then cone clutch assembly then another thick washer and cone thingy which shows obvious wear.

The shop guys seem to think the problem is caused by that thin worn cone.

My feelings say it's the big bronze assembly, as you think.

So where should I look on the clutch cone for suspected wear? I'd have to point it out to them.

As a historical note; about 25 years ago I lost a clutch cone to a cargo net crossing the South China sea. Obsolete ZF box, but a Phil machine shop knurled [ stamped ridges ] into the cone . I then used the motor in reverse with a right handed prop, across the equatorial counter current, back to the US.

Max speed 3 knots. . Ah, the good old days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
My next door neighbor says this part is called a belvedere spring washer. I googled it and that is the beastie. Now , how to guess spring steel and tempering could be difficult, but not impossible

Can be ordered via auto cad specs if I can figure out the computer manipulations necessary.

Just returned from some very obscure crevices in Sing. They say that Belvedere washers with a 3" diameter would normally have a 1" hole in the center, not 2". This is a dedicated part; available only from Yanmar. This part does not exist in the old GM series, only new YM. It is a tapered cone, made of spring steel and phosphor coated and tempered. I learned that it could be ordered custom from fabricators but I would have a MOQ [ minimum order quantity ] of 100. And 6 week wait.

Off I go to Dalac Marine. Carpe diem
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Six months later, now in Gulf of Siam, 40 miles from Cambodia.

Dalac Marine owner misled me because he didn't want to order parts from Sing. The dealer there said the parts could never take more than 3 weeks because that is the time to air ship the parts. When I ordered the Belvedere spring washers [ $6.00 each ] they arrived in 10 days.

Dalac mechanic installed parts but installed the interior shift arm upside down which caused the box to lock up after one use. Gearbox out again and angry mechanic spilled the oil everywhere and finally got it right.

200 hours later; system now functions well. I could indeed have used reverse Belvedere spring washer as temporary fix, losing reverse gear til replaced.

Note to the next person with this problem; Taking the gearbox apart takes a large vice to hold the rear transmission flange and approx. 150 ft/ pounds of torque on that flange nut. Then main shaft with defective parts can be replaced

Reassemly. Don't forget to bend the locking tab on flange nut, make sure shift rod rests on top side of main shaft, and remember to fill with oil when reassembling.

It will be extremely difficult to do this onboard. maybe a huge pipe wrench on the flange and a 1/2 or 3/4 inch ratchet with a pipe over the handle as an extension. I believe the large nut is left hand thread. Good luck !!!!!
 
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