[Fstbttms]

Bad engine mount(s)?

From the OP's first post:

On the advice of the Singapore dealer, I replaced the engine mounts and vibration damper. No improvement at all.

 

[Puddin'_Tain]

From the OP's first post:

Oops. My bad.

(Note to self. Finish first cup of coffee BEFORE posting to new thread.)

 

[meanderboy]

TO Christian in Sing; I'm in Danga Bay. Tranny works fine in reverse. CLLS has been way less than helpful. No response to emails or phone calls. They also misplaced my account which had $1000 in it [ later found in a wriitten ledger ].

Your suggestions have been most very helpful. Dave

 

[redline]

The 2GM20 on my previous boat developed a horrible shake / clunking - in forward only - due to a worn cone clutch. Don't know if you have the same transmission (mine used regular oil, not transmission fluid), but with time, especially if left in forward with the engine stopped - the prop turns just enough to unlock the spline and wear the cone. Reverse was fine. A new cone fixed it. Good luck.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[hangupndrive]

Does the engine run well out of gear at the full range of rpm's? If so, the problem is either The gear box, alignment, shaft or prop. There are no other possibilities. The gear box is so simple on a yanmar, I'd be very surprised if that was the problem. When you replaced the mounts, did you check for alignment? You do this with a feeler gauge at the coupling? You can adjust the alignment with the motor mount bolts. If you cant bring it in to alignment, you may have a bent shaft. Take a swim and check the prop. Your problem may be frustrating but it can be solved by moving from front to back, eliminating culprits as you go.

Good Luck!

 

[trantor12020]

Dave, sounds like your gearbox to be the problem. Dismantle it and have CLLS overhaul/repair. Alternatively, There's a boatyard over at Masai, east side of the Causeway they agent for Beta and Yanmar i believe. Perhaps you could try them. I'll get you their contact later.

 

[meanderboy]

Now we're getting close !!! Alignment, shaft , prop are excellent and the engine works perfectly in reverse.

The shake / clunk describes my situation perfectly. I have a 3YM30 and previously a 3GM30, the gearbox is the same as the 2GM20. So gearbox was my original thought also.

So here's the deal from my viewpoint; Haul gearbox and bell housing 3 1/2 hour to Singapore Yanmar. Be told that Yanmar gearbox doesn't fail, buy $700 worth of useless parts on their recommendation. Be told they lost my $1000 account, spend 4 hours getting the parts back to the boat in Johor Bahru. Re install and find situation unchanged.

I was told that an 'inspection ' would cost $120/hour and a four hour minimum, plus tax. I'm certainly going to have someone tear apart the gearbox, but I have zero confidence in CLLS Yanmar.

IF anyone could recommend a different workshop to fix the tranny, in the Sing apore / Johore Bahru area, I would be most grateful

Telephone 60 111 451 0066 Malaysia cell

Dave on Meander

 

[trantor12020]

Dave,
3 options:

1. Call Simon Goh, Ops Mgr, Dalac Marine Engineering & Services Sdn Bhd. HP: 019-771 7226. 44B Kampung Telok Jawa, 81750 Masai, Johor. Ask if he or anyone repair Yanmar/Kazaki gearbox.

2. Call Bobby Ee, Ops & Repr Mgr, Esgrit Marine Engineering Pte Ltd. HP: +65 97453403. 96 Tagore Lane, Singapore 787538. You can send gearbox to him for repair/service.

3. I email you the shop manual and parts catalogue and you try DIY repair of gearbox.

Ken

 

[smurphny]

Have you checked the valves? If diesels miss, they produce some disturbing noises. If one valve is hanging or needs adjustment, it could produce this condition under load. You are absolutely right to avoid an expensive fishing expedition! Take it piece by by piece to eliminate everything until you are certain what the problem is. Compression test? Maybe try releasing compression when this occurs. If slowly releasing compression on one cylinder has no effect, it might narrow the problem down to either a bad injector or a leaky valve. Have you checked for obvious air leaks in the fuel lines? Maybe give all the connections a tweak, especially those injector banjo fittings which tighten down on the copper washers (use a torque wrench). Do you have a shop manual?

 

[meanderboy]

I have a shop manual for both 3YM30 and 3GM 30. The newer 3YM30 has no transmission section at all. The fuel system has checked out fine. Gearbox now at Dalac Marine with Simon.I'll know by this time tomorrow what the verdict is.

Thanks for all your help. After 2 circumnavigations and 30 years cruising, I thought I knew everything. You folks have given me a great dose of humility.

Cheers, Dave

 

[christian.hess]

just trying to help! hope it all works out...

ps...you never stop learning if you continue to want to! jajajaja

peace

 

[Brent Swain]

Those super soft , nothing but rubber connecting the engine to the boat, Yanmar mounts are dangerous. A boat was sunk off Queensland last year, when the engine came loose and punched a hole in the hull. Perko makes harder mounts with metal holding things together, if the rubber gives out.

 

[smurphny]

Those super soft , nothing but rubber connecting the engine to the boat, Yanmar mounts are dangerous. A boat was sunk off Queensland last year, when the engine came loose and punched a hole in the hull. Perko makes harder mounts with metal holding things together, if the rubber gives out.

Don't want to throw this thread off the tracks but you are right about the danger of the rubber mounts. That said, to avoid the "flying large projectile" problem inherent in these mounts, cable or Amsteel should be threaded through the upper and lower components so the engine can't go far. It's a good use for four soft shackles.

 

[trantor12020]

I have a shop manual for both 3YM30 and 3GM 30. The newer 3YM30 has no transmission section at all. The fuel system has checked out fine. Gearbox now at Dalac Marine with Simon.I'll know by this time tomorrow what the verdict is.

Thanks for all your help. After 2 circumnavigations and 30 years cruising, I thought I knew everything. You folks have given me a great dose of humility.

Cheers, Dave

Dave, so what's the verdict?

 

[meanderboy]

Engine mechanic here in JB says engine is perfect.

Dalac Marine says tranny fine, but no mention of price for inspection and now says they are trying to get a price for cone clutch at my request.

It is incredibly hard to understand Simon's English and I still have no estimates of any kind. Nor any emails.

To sum up at this point; Engine guy says all is fine. Tranny guy says all is fine. I wish I knew what to do.

Next to call Bobby EE at Esgrit

Further note; alignment is within 2 thousands of an inch. I dived the prop and there is no measureable damage and shaft turns freely. Water too dirty to be precise, but the prop is well protected and total shaft is only 23 inches long. Cutlass bearing has only tiny amount of play.

 

[meanderboy]

Here is my first email reply from Dalac:

"Yesterday I seen have more 2 units washer and 2 units skin plate is damage."

I"m feeling better already. Cheers, Dave

 

[Puddin'_Tain]

...Cutlass bearing has only tiny amount of play.

Any noticeable play is too much. Get the bearing replaced (or replace it yourself).

 

[christian.hess]

the shaft inside the bearing or the bearing within the skeg?

should have NO PLAY either way...

if the actual bearing has play inside the skeg that means it is not properly bedded, is the set screw still there?

the same applies to a cutlass bearing bedded inside a stern gland in glass...

 

[christian.hess]

btw running an engine with a loose cutlass bearing or NO bearing at all especially if unaligned will make a horrible racket!

I bought a boat with a bad bearing and later replaced it...basically using the engine even for emergency just made too much noise and damage

this might be your issue all along

remeber go from simple to complicated thats why start from the prop all the way to the engine...

 

[meanderboy]

And the winners who made the right call;

Paulin Victoria - cable adjustment. Unlike older 3GM30, the new 3YM30 has only one hole in shift arm. Solution - drill another hole closer to pivot shaft of shift arm. Morse 33C cables simple can't swing that far to positively engage gear. I have a feeling there will be more problems like this in the future as the 3YM30 ages on other peoples boats.

ChristianHess - For the early and correct call that the clacking sound is a dead giveaway. Plus welcome advice on how to get it fixed,

Redline - For an exact call on cone wear. In this case it was a 3" conical washer with a 2"" hole in the center. About 10 thousands of an inch thick. It has about 1/32 inch wear on the outer edge. Defenitly the cause of shaking / clattering.

Trantor - picks the gearbox and says who to see.

Here's an attaboy to all you winners.:

The solution; replace that cone washer, which is a problem. Not available in Sing or Malaysia until 2 months.

I'm thinking that a simple switch of reverse and forward cone will at least give me forward gear and I can live without reverse for a while if parts don't appear.

Note,repair labor in Johor Bahru is $120 US and in Sing is $400 US.

All advice as to how to get these cones is welcome. I'll have part numbers and exact name in 3 days.

Terrific help from you all.