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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i could tare down a outboard with my eyes closed BUT deisals are chinese to me like what the heck its getting fuel and air ok wheres the spark plug:confused:
this is a diffrent beast alltogether all the filters are new no water in fuel air cleaner looks clean (((what the heck are those 2 levers on top of the heads)) hmm somthing about compression ? :confused: ok i can see i'm gonna need some sort of service manual here also some sort of fuel primer screw thingy good grief should be an intresting summer:laugher ANY HELP HERE WOULD BE ...WELL HELPFUL :rolleyes: ENgine cranks over but does not start
 

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Also if you crank most motors more that 30 seconds you should drain the waterlift muffler as there is no exaust to push the water out and it can backflow into the motor
 

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My guess, air in fuel lines.....

which you will need to bleed out before the motor will fire.

Sounds like you have a 2 cylinder (2 levers) motor. On my 3 cylinder Yanmar, the compression levers, are forward (I think) when the motor is under full compression. Check those to see if they are in the right position first. Maybe call Mack-Boring (Yanmar Distributor) to make sure.

Aside for the compression levels, any air in the fuel lines will cause the motor not to fire. I'll try to verbally walk you through bleeding the lines, but there is a video/picture explanation from another Sailnet member (ArtbyJody?) that explains with pictures, but I can't seem to find it. A Yanmar manual will also have diagrams.

My attempt:
  • If you have a Racor or other fuel filter/waterseparator, you need to get the air out of that first.
  • There are two screws on to of the Racor filter, a larger thumb screw and a smaller slotted screw.
  • Unscrew the larger thumb screw and raise it. It is a small pumping handle
  • Unscrew the smaller screw all the way. This is the bleed vent.
  • Pump the handle until only fuel comes out of the bleed screw. This may take a few minutes. If you want to speed it up, use a small eye dropper and drip in CLEAN diesel in the bleed vent until you can't put any more in.
  • Close off the pump screw and close the bleed screw.
  • Go to the Primary fuel filter (on the motor) and crack the small screw in the center of the top of the fuel filter housing
  • Locate the priming fuel lift pump on the motor and press it until you displace all of the air in the line. This may take a few minutes.
  • When no more air comes out, close the bleed screw and go to the bleed screw just before the injectors.
  • Crack the screw and repump the fuel lift pump until a steady stream of fuel comes out.
  • Tighten the screw, clean up any diesel spill, and try to refire the motor.

You may have to rebleed the fuel line if the motor fires and then shuts down a few minutes later. Some fuel lines have a secondary high point in them where air can be come trapped. This trapped air has now been pushed to the motor and needs to be bled off.

DrB
 

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Also if you crank most motors more that 30 seconds you should drain the waterlift muffler as there is no exaust to push the water out and it can backflow into the motor
or close the sea ****, just remember to close it again
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
not sure on the model 1981 2 lumper I''ll ckeck around for the ## front of motor ...i think
......... no turbo of course on the # plack says --2g--- than its covered up by a bracket
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
which you will need to bleed out before the motor will fire.

Sounds like you have a 2 cylinder (2 levers) motor. On my 3 cylinder Yanmar, the compression levers, are forward (I think) when the motor is under full compression. Check those to see if they are in the right position first. Maybe call Mack-Boring (Yanmar Distributor) to make sure.

Aside for the compression levels, any air in the fuel lines will cause the motor not to fire. I'll try to verbally walk you through bleeding the lines, but there is a video/picture explanation from another Sailnet member (ArtbyJody?) that explains with pictures, but I can't seem to find it. A Yanmar manual will also have diagrams.

My attempt:
  • If you have a Racor or other fuel filter/waterseparator, you need to get the air out of that first.
  • There are two screws on to of the Racor filter, a larger thumb screw and a smaller slotted screw.
  • Unscrew the larger thumb screw and raise it. It is a small pumping handle
  • Unscrew the smaller screw all the way. This is the bleed vent.
  • Pump the handle until only fuel comes out of the bleed screw. This may take a few minutes. If you want to speed it up, use a small eye dropper and drip in CLEAN diesel in the bleed vent until you can't put any more in.
  • Close off the pump screw and close the bleed screw.
  • Go to the Primary fuel filter (on the motor) and crack the small screw in the center of the top of the fuel filter housing
  • Locate the priming fuel lift pump on the motor and press it until you displace all of the air in the line. This may take a few minutes.
  • When no more air comes out, close the bleed screw and go to the bleed screw just before the injectors.
  • Crack the screw and repump the fuel lift pump until a steady stream of fuel comes out.
  • Tighten the screw, clean up any diesel spill, and try to refire the motor.

You may have to rebleed the fuel line if the motor fires and then shuts down a few minutes later. Some fuel lines have a secondary high point in them where air can be come trapped. This trapped air has now been pushed to the motor and needs to be bled off.

DrB
Roger will do at least I'm STARTING to understand this motor a bit still cant find the dip stick tho lol sad as that sounds
 

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Cod,

Is the engine fresh water cooled? And are there any glow plugs. If fresh water cooled and no glow plugs the model # is 2GM20F. With that engine you will have trouble starting it if it's cold outside.
 

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It's definitely worth getting yourself a book on the engine, codmander--a Yanmar service manual, even a third-party one like the Clymer manual, will save you a bunch of guessing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
geeez had to back 5 pages ((busy here)) anyhow thanks got it running and it runs quite awesome heck even found the dip stick along with 6000 other things anyhow thanks for the info found it quite handy ...............................on to problem 2...:)
 

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codmander---- here is a tip for starting a cold engine that is getting fuel, but just puts out white smoke when you crank it. you have to heat the incoming air. remove the air cleaner, take a propane torch and put the flame into the intake manifold while the engine is cranking. the extra heat in the air raises the final compression temperature enough so the fuel will fire. some truck engines had a burner in the intake manifold to do this, & some use electric heating coils to do this
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
codmander---- here is a tip for starting a cold engine that is getting fuel, but just puts out white smoke when you crank it. you have to heat the incoming air. remove the air cleaner, take a propane torch and put the flame into the intake manifold while the engine is cranking. the extra heat in the air raises the final compression temperature enough so the fuel will fire. some truck engines had a burner in the intake manifold to do this, & some use electric heating coils to do this
\


hmm interesting do have propane on board... hopefully wont need to do that fires every time now...but a great tip thanks .new to deisals as you probly noticed ............ now to attack that ugly wiring :eek: gotta clean the bildge first tho...
 
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