A Heritage 35? This one? : https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/heritage-35/. Nice looking boat. An outboard will not work well on anything so large. Going that route will be a waste of time and money. The drawing makes it look like getting the engine out would be a major hassle. For repairs It would help to know what made the engine seize. (Did it overheat? Run out of lubricating oil? Throw a piston?) A mechanic could tell you if it is fixable and what it might cost. Replacing an engine can run about $10k. Maybe $5K for the new motor and $5k to get the old one out and the new one in, with new fuel lines, exhaust controls, wiring... The V-drive transmission could need some attention too.

 

And no mine is a 36' but more than likely layed out the same the blueprint looks similar

 

Prior owner had no idea why it possibly seized I asked and the only answer was it sounded rough then the next day it wouldn't start and they never tried it again as neither were mechanically inclined I've had her for 2 days and haven't taken a long look at it yet apart from the initial 1 the day I bought her for $5000 from them

 

Starting with the basics, I suggest that you actually own a West Indies 36 (which was built by Heritage). That is quite a different boat than the Heritage 35.

While the general interior layout is similar to the Heritage 35, the engine access to remove and reinstall the engine would be considerably more difficult. It would probably require largely disassembling the engine through the sail locker to get the weight down and dimensions smaller.

But before I did anything drastic, I would close the seacocks and open the compression releases, then hand turn the flywheel to see whether the engine really is seized, or "seized" was simply the term the prior owner used because they didn't know better.

I believe that there is a removable plywood panel in the sail locker that provides access to the flywheel. There may also be an access panel in the quarter berth.

If you are able to rotate the flywheel even a few degrees then, I would pump lube oil out of the sump to check the oil for signs of water in the lube oil.

Assuming that the engine isn't actually seized and there isn't water in the lube oil, there is a good chance that the engine can be repaired or rebuilt and that option would probably/possibly be your cheapest way out.

Putting an outboard on the transom would be okay if you are in a benign sailing venue, and only used the outboard to into and out of your slip. Otherwise, it's not really a good option as a general service replacement for an inboard auxiliary on a boat with the amount of displacement and windage of a West Indies 36.

But frankly, installing an outboard is no where near a cheap and easy solution. This would involve getting the transom beefed up, the fuel and electrical systems reworked, adding a heavy duty outboard bracket, and the near unicorn of a large hp, long shaft, high thrust outboard.

On the other hand, people either love or hate Volvo auxiliaries. Based on my personal experience, I really hate older Volvos. They are unreliable, the parts are silly expensive, and many critical components are virtually unavailable.

If a rebuild of the existing engine is too expensive or not feasible, I would look at replacing the Volvo with either a Yanmar or a Beta. Neither would be a simple plug and play, but one of the nice things about the Beta is that they will do custom legs and engine mounts that help a little.

Depending on which engine you choose to buy, a new engine may require a new propeller and prop shaft.

Jeff

 

Starting with the basics, I suggest that you actually own a West Indies 36 (which was built by Heritage). That is quite a different boat than the Heritage 35.

While the general interior layout is similar to the Heritage 35, the engine access to remove and reinstall the engine would be considerably more difficult. It would probably require largely disassembling the engine through the sail locker to get the weight down and dimensions smaller.

But before I did anything drastic, I would close the seacocks and open the compression releases, then hand turn the flywheel to see whether the engine really is seized, or "seized" was simply the term the prior owner used because they didn't know better.

I believe that there is a removable plywood panel in the sail locker that provides access to the flywheel. There may also be an access panel in the quarter berth.

If you are able to rotate the flywheel even a few degrees then, I would pump lube oil out of the sump to check the oil for signs of water in the lube oil.

Assuming that the engine isn't actually seized and there isn't water in the lube oil, there is a good chance that the engine can be repaired or rebuilt and that option would probably/possibly be your cheapest way out.

Putting an outboard on the transom would be okay if you are in a benign sailing venue, and only used the outboard to into and out of your slip. Otherwise, it's not really a good option as a general service replacement for an inboard auxiliary on a boat with the amount of displacement and windage of a West Indies 36.

But frankly, installing an outboard is no where near a cheap and easy solution. This would involve getting the transom beefed up, the fuel and electrical systems reworked, adding a heavy duty outboard bracket, and the near unicorn of a large hp, long shaft, high thrust outboard.

On the other hand, people either love or hate Volvo auxiliaries. Based on my personal experience, I really hate older Volvos. They are unreliable, the parts are silly expensive, and many critical components are virtually unavailable.

If a rebuild of the existing engine is too expensive or not feasible, I would look at replacing the Volvo with either a Yanmar or a Beta. Neither would be a simple plug and play, but one of the nice things about the Beta is that they will do custom legs and engine mounts that help a little.

Depending on which engine you choose to buy, a new engine may require a new propeller and prop shaft.

Jeff

I know she's a 77 (previous saying she was a 76 was a typo) heritage 36 I have a copy of a survey done on her 2 years ago, issue with her engine is that water in her oil could definitely be an issue considering that there's water touching the bottom of the engine in the compartment I know the fixables of a land vehicle diesel but I'm not very knowledgeable about marine engines I'm assuming it's the same concepts but please correct me if I'm wrong, far as an outboard and mount I know it'd require some work but it'd primarily be used to dock and get underway and even getting to the engine to possibly remove it I can already tell is going to get interesting quickly

 

A 1977 Volvo (or any engine that old) is very unlikely to have readily available parts anymore. Unless you can get it running reliably, with simple maintenance, I’d plan for a repower. If they told you it seized, I assume a new engine cost was factored in to your offer. While I’d like to think they could have been mistaken and it’s worth finding out, I wouldn’t bet on it. Put a nice new auxiliary in it and you’ll never think about it again.

 

1977 Volvo (or any engine that old) is very unlikely to have readily available parts anymore.

you can get them, but they’re used to restore classic Volvos so are real pricey. Ultimately it would probably be less expensive to replace the engine. That way it would also be more reliable too.

 

Is this more like it? Sailboatdata says it has a Volvo engine: https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/west-indies-36-morgan/

 

Fairly identical apart from mine is sloop rigged thank you very much

 

The listing does describe it as a cutter - (the mast is well aft, so there is perhaps room for another jib on the foredeck) - but the drawing shows it rigged as a sloop.

Yes, The boat in your avatar is definitely a West Indies 36. You can post a picture from the tool bar that should appear below the box where you make a new post. Its the box shaped icon that is one image to the left of the camera icon and two icons to the left of the smiley face in the image below:

View attachment 157133

Thanks and here's some pics lol the ones in the channel is how she's currently moored

 

https://stpeteyachtsales.com/yachtsalesdetail.php?id=332a west indies 36

the pics show an engine in a normal config with the front of the engine forward and no apparent V drive which could make life a bit easier, you could use the boom to lift it out.

It also shows the perk 4108 which means yours could have been repowered. although some volvos are just rebranded perks.

if the front of the engine is facing forward, you should be able to get a breaker bar and try to turn the crank by hand. another option would be to remove the starter and try to manually move the flywheel by levering the ring gear.

if the engine has sat idle, for a long period of time, then its possible the rings have rusted to the cylinder walls.

pull the injectors and shove a borescope inside the cylinders, see what you can see...do you have access to the drain plug. could you drain the oil and stick a scope and look inside...

baring that remove the head and take a look. The next step would be pull engine and drop the pan and take a look.

Could something be in the trans locking up the motor from spinning....

 

This is from the previous owner so all I have as a starting point to troubleshoot

 

This is from the previous owner so all I have as a starting point to troubleshoot

That doesn’t say it was seized. Where did you get that diagnosis?

 

That doesn't sound like a seized engine issue. Fixing the starter and its wiring is fairly simple. Not clear what they mean by the engine died. Was it running when it stopped. Or just a further issue with the starter. In any case, I would definitely pursue seeing if this engine can be revived.

 

The wiring on the starter looks bad when I start to fix the engine that was going to be my first place to start I've been busy trying to clean the entire boat up first previous owner and his 21 yr old kid were slobs

 

stop leak in the radiator(heat exchanger) is not a good sign either. if the engine overheated and seized, that's usually no bueno. if it wasn't a hard seize then sometimes, when the engine cools down it can be rotated again.

but remove the starter or ensure that the gear isn't engaged with the ring gear put trans in neutral and try to turn the engine by hand with the big nut on the crankshaft pulley...

 

I'll try that thank you

 

In my opinion the choice comes down to whether you want fix and pay for things or go sailing. I think it is unlikely you will ever recover any money or effort put into an old boat. I would go for a itty bitty outboard strapped on a plank to get away from the slip and then raise sails.

 

17000lb sail boat and an "itty bitty outboard" really don't work well together... except when conditions are benign.

I don't think the op mentioned anything about "recovering any money" I think the op wants to have a fully functioning sailboat so they can go out and go sailing while being able to comfortably rely on the onboard systems. which in this case in an inboard engine.

 

From previous owner it sounds like the engine just stopped for some reason -(Possibly a clog in a fuel line or line around the prop? There are lots of options.), rather than seized. Seizing involves dramatic screeching noises that would evoke a more vivid description of the event from him. If the OP knows motors he should be able to investigate further and let us in on what he finds. Inquiring minds want to know!

 

Haven't had time to fully check it out apart from trying to start it myself it'll crank but no turn over

 

If the OP used the term seized (too generically) to refer to not running, this may not be as bad as advertised. Seizing is metal that won’t move, because it’s been stuck to the surface it should move against. Most commonly piston rings rusted to the cylinder walls or a spun bearing that heated up and jammed the works. Both could be fatal for such an old engine.

If it just stopped running, check the basics. First check that the crank will actually turn, then fuel flow to the injectors, airflow and compression. If you have all three and it’s not seized, it should run.

 

I'll be heading out to her in a couple of days I'm swamped with work currently and the only way I have to where she's moored is a inflatable kayak with paddles lol she's about 350 to 400 yards offshore so it's a trip and workout in a easy to be flipped kayak the power boats keep causing it to rock dramatically regardless a wake zone they ignore

 

Could be a blown head gasket a cylinder is full of water or oil so can’t crank remove the injes and crank over before removing the cylinder head

 

Thanks I got it to fire but ran fine while idling but soon as I put it in gear there was a hard shudder and immediate shut down I waited 10 mins then retried but all I got was the starter clicking and no crank

 

Any progress?

 

Engine fires up but hard shudder and cuts out when put into gear I'm thinking ground or do sailboats have a transmission linkage?(soon as the engine or tranny lurches it'll shudder hard then cut out then won't do more than have the starter click the next time I try it

 

So engine is not seized! But certainly has issues. Yes there is a transmission linkage. There is an arm on the transmission that is moved back and forth by a cable from the engine controls in the cockpit. In the center is neutral, moved one way is forward, moved the other way is reverse. Sounds like the engine runs but stalls when you move that control. I would make sure the prop shaft moves freely when the transmission is in neutral. And with the engine stopped and compression releases open, put the transmission in gear and see how difficult it is to rotate the drive train. Sounds like you are OK in neutral but loading up the engine when you shift the transmission into gear.

 

So far compression isn't an issue but I'm not sure why it hard shuddered then immediately shut down I tried after 10 mins and all I got was the starter clicking with no crank

 

Is there a brake on the shaft? Sometimes people have one to line up the propeller vertically so as to reduce drag under sail. Could misalignment/broken motor mount also be overloading the system and causing the shudder/shutdown? With the previous owner's maintenance schedule there are lots of possibilities.

 

Absolute lack of maintenance ya mean? Lol and I'm going to check it all I initially thought the mounts could be an issue but was leaning more towards a ground or transmission linkage since it was fine while idling but literally as soon as I put it in gear to go forward it shuddered hard then stopped then waited a few minutes (like 10 mins) retried it and nothing no crank just the starter clicking

 

The starter just clicking after the engine shuts down is most likely one (or several) of these possibilities: 1) weak batteries, 2) defective starter, 3) bad wiring connections between start battery and starter, including the ground. Start by cleaning all connections and testing the batteries. Replacing the starter is the last to do after you have done the other two.

 

Has a brand new starter on it, tho wiring definitely needs replaced by the looks of it

 

It’s good news that it isn’t seized. Sounds like it will still need a lot of TLC to get running reliably. The stalling could be something as simple as an air leak in the induction system. Tighten up every connection and check for splits in hoses or housings. Perhaps more likely is dirty or mistimed injectors or injection pump. Possibly a tired lift pump. Your engine hasn’t been produced for over 30 years, so it’s going to be hard to keep up with. What’s your planned use for the boat?

 

Occasionally Bahama bound I've sailed to Jamaica a few times with my uncle on his topsail ketch schooner but it's been years and I was just a kid (he had a crew of 8 and I jumped in where needed but was under 10yrs old at the time) the furthest I'll sail her will eventually be to port royal and back to S Daytona, florida but not until she's 100% ready for it (also have to teach my gf she's never sailed apart from being on aboard in a swimsuit as eye candy for an ex) I'm wanting to set my boat up as a fulltime live aboard but again the engine needs to be reliable and there's a main halyard I need to replace but the halyard I can do easily the jib it's backup and the main and it's back up are all in excellent condition only main issue is the engine currently

 

Not a 4108 expert by any means but I have one as well and have figured my way around it somewhat. The 4108 Is a very simple "meat/potatoes" type of engine with parts readily available as well PDF service manuals for free. So if you are somewhat mechanically inclined, its not the hardest motor to work on, access dependent of course. and lots of online resources.

http://www.endeavourowners.com/dscsn/info/manuals/4108%20Workshop%20Manual.pdf

Pics of the engine/trans may help us help you figure out what type of trans and also see linkages.

If all you are getting is one start and then clicks. wires, starter, battery assuming that the prop/trans/engine aren't bound up. Nice to see that you at least got it running.

Plan on swapping out fuel filters and looking inside the tank and see if its clean.

Can you put the transmission in neutral and get the engine to rev beyond idle?

Are you able to put the trans into neutral and rotate the propeller shaft freely from the engine? Not talking about turning the engine from the crank shaft pulley just want to spin the prop shaft that enters the rear of the transmission freely.

What do your engine controls look like. do you have a separate throttle and shifter? or is the throttle/shifter on the same lever?

 

Are you able to put the trans into neutral and rotate the propeller shaft freely from the engine? Not talking about turning the engine from the crank shaft pulley just want to spin the prop shaft that enters the rear of the transmission freely.

That’s what I asked. That would eliminate or indict binding of the shaft.

 

Not sure how to tag everybody that's reached out to offer advice but I want to thank all of you for the help, I'm trying to keep up with all the advice and comments lol you guys are amazing I appreciate all of you alot just don't know how to tag everyone to say thank you for everybody who's helped on this entire thread, I'm a tattoo artist and commission artist by trade so if I know somewhere to ship it or send a jpeg I'll happily do tats, boat portraits or Roger's, lettering for names etc anything art related as a thank you for everybody who's gave me advice!!! Seriously all of you thank you!!!

 

Occasionally Bahama bound

That will be fun. I hope you accomplish that soon. The Gulf Stream will demand and reliable motor, in the event you need to get past it quickly. Its' good to hear above that parts are still available for it. Have you considered having a diesel mechanic look it over good? If you're going to try to resurrect, it would be nice not to trial and error everything, which can leave you stranded.

(she's been anchored in the same spot afloat for 2 years

Has the bottom been cleaned routinely? If not, your running gear (prop, strut, shaft) are going to look like a farm and could be related to your stall. Are you familiar with needing anodes? Very important.

 

if you have a single handle control like this. then as you move the lever forward it will shift into forward and as you move the lever more, it will increase the engine RPM. pullback to neutral, then further back into reverse and even further you will increase the engine speed in reverse.

T handle is likley your fuel shutoff to turn the engine off

on this handle if you are in neutral, pushing the red button and then moving the lever forward will increase then engine RPM without putting it in gear.

there are many various iterations of the single lever engine control... some there is a button. others. you have to pull the lever out and then rotate...

either way. there will be a way to alter the engine rpms with out it being in gear.

Has the bottom been cleaned routinely? If not, your running gear (prop, strut, shaft) are going to look like a farm and could be related to your stall. Are you familiar with needing anodes? Very important.

if the water is warm enough then my all means hop overboard and take a look. but not moving for two years... might be able to harvest enough seafood for dinner... if you do go overboard. and start to scrape and clean the bottom. wear some sort of a tight fitting wet suit and head covering to keep the critters out of the cracks and crevices...