If anyone would have one , if available, I would think that Scott on HyLyte would either have one or knbow where one would be..
you might drop him a message..

We're in the process of installing a new sole and upholstery throu-out.. If I can be of any help, give me a shout..
By the way, congrats on the purchase.. you'll love it..
Randy

 

Thanks! How do I get in touch with him?

I'm going to replace the headliner in the future as well. What are you going to do to it? My current projects are a new stereo system, keelbolts, bottom job and standing rigging. Its a lot but after that I think most of the remainder will be easy.

 

Do a search for FIRST 42 and S/V HyLyte will come up.. just send him a private message..
as fare as upholstery work. we've done the aft bathroom.. stripped all that was covered with vinyl and epoxied burlap to the sides and recovered a new piece of ply with burlap for the top.. the shelves are gon as origional and installed two shelves and a cabinet front.. new sink in a granet style with a stinless bowl.. ..
next is the quarter berth as the vinyl has fallen.. hopes are we can use a slow curing resen and apply a good quility upholstery fabric..
We pulled the origional vinyl in the main cabin and replaced a yer or so ago..

because we own a canvas and upholstery shop, we have the products to play with ..

 

If you get a chance, post a pic of what you've done. I don't like the storage in either head so I'd like to see what is possible.

 

Hey Guys... I've been out'a touch for a few weeks due to a death in the family and consequential travel etc. Randy, thanx for the compliments. We've compiled lots of documents/history/technical background on the yacht but no "manual" per se.

Letra--the First 42 was/is a pretty sophisticated yacht such that most people that bought them originally (i.e. when new) really already knew what they were doing and didn't need much instruction. There was a "check list" on the engine (a Perkins 4-108) that reflected the test out and delivery of the engine and, of course, the Perkins operator's and maintenance manuals. We have all of the documents that were originally included with our boat at the time of the original sale and purchase (in our case in Europe), including the manufacturer's user guides for the equipment that was included--hot water heater, pumps, etc--that still remain on the boat today but they are in French since the yacht was delivered in Europe.

If you have specific questions Randy and I and a few others may be able to help you. Randy has done some pretty impressive up-grades on R3 so he's got the milage with that kind of thing. But let us know what you need and someone is sure to be able to help.

FWIW...

s/v HyLyte

 

Beneteau first 42' 1983 steering cable broke. Do they cross inside the binnacle? Thank you Matt

 

Hi All, so happy to find this forum. We also just purchased a 1984 Beneteau First 42 in November so slowly working through her 'issues' and are ready to launch next week to 'finally' give her some sea room. This is a big step from a Tayana 37 so we are quite excited to see the performance and test ourselves in sailing this type of thoroughbreed. Our sea trial was sadly lacking in the wind department. I am also interested in some interior view shots and ideas on replacing head liners and the cabin sole, this one is quite worn out and saggy.
Cheers and I am sure I will also have a million questions in the coming weeks and months.
Lee-Ann & Henry
s/v Caffeine x

 

Thanks Hylite. I bought the boat off a guy who was refitting with the intention of sailing around the world. It was in a general disarray due to this though a solid boat. I took it out this weekend and pretty much singlehanded other than docking the trip from the dock to the gulf twice which is roughly 30 miles each way. Thanks to the autopilot, I can trim, furl and reef without help which is great. I really like how fast it is and loved having to reef the sails in order to keep from overtaking a large freighter and tugs in the narrow channel. That's a wind shadow I don't want to go through. The girl loves that I can run the boat alone while she enjoys the sun and some fishing.

Does anyone know a logical order for the lines running on the cabin top to the clutches? I had to run most of them but am trying to figure out if the outhaul, Vang and reefs might have been run there originally. I currently have the Genoa and two spin halyards, main halyard and sheet running aft in the eight slots.

Would any of you be near Lake Charles? There's a Beneteau First 42 on my dock but I've never seen the owner.

 

On our boat, the lines are, from Starboard to port at the aft end of the coach roof:

Starboard Side of Companionway:

Foreguy (or tack line for asymmetrical when rigged)--Solid Blue;
Secondary Jib Halyard--Blue with White Tracers;
Main Halyard--Marked with 1st, 2nd and 3rd Reef Points--Green w/White Tracers;
Vang Down-haul--White with Green Tracers

Port Side of COmpanionway:

Mainsheet--Green with white tracers;
Secondary Main Halyard--White with Green Tracers;
Spinnaker Pole Topping Lift--Red with Blue Tracers;
Primary Jib Halyard--Blue with White Tracers;

At the Mast:

The Primary Spinnaker Halyard--Black with Red Tracers--is led to the Starboard Deck winch;
The Secondary Spinnaker Halyard--Black with Red Tracers--is led to the Port Deck winch;

At the boom, from starboard to port:

1st Reef--Red with White Tracers;
Main out-haul--White with Green/Black Tracers;
2nd Reef--White with Red Tracers;
3rd Reef--White with Blue Tracers (we normally only rig the 3rd reef when we're taking the yacht off-shore);

Our Running Backs are 1/4" Spectra with the covers stripped off for all but the last 15 feet and are passed through turning blocks at pad-eyes on the quarters and led to the secondary winches. When we need the runners, we don't need the Secondaries for the Spinnaker Sheets/After Guys. When Running off we also lead preventer lines from the boom end to snatch-blocks on the lee toe-rail adjacent to the Chain plates and then back to the secondaries via the top sheaves on the foot-blocks adjacent to the Primaries. This holds the boom in place and allows us to fit a snatch block on the boom end to take the jib sheet to get a fair lead on the jib. I rig a trip line to the snap shackle on the snatch block and the back along the boom to the mast so I can simply haul on the trip line and pop the shackle free at the boom end that frees the sheet and lets the snatch block run down the sheet to the deck to the fair-lead where it can be removed easily.

FWIW...

 

Thanks again. That's what I was looking for. I'm missing a secondary main and jib halyard so will have to rig those in the future when I go up the mast. Also, when you say secondary jib halyard, is that masthead or down lower? I have two sheaves below the streaming light on the mast. One is a few inches above the other and neither are direct centerline. One i'm sure is for the spinnaker pole lift. The other I believe is for a staysail or storm jib which can be rigged on my removable inner forestay. I'm wondering if this it's what you mean by secondary jib halyard. I was thinking to raise a second jib on the foil I would use the secondary spinnaker halyard before I peeled the first away.

I like how you've run the checkstays. Mine currently has a four to one fiddle system in place and I was thinking of going to the way you suggested which is how we ran an Express 37 I raced on. One tackle would go to the foreguy and the second could go to the boom preventer.

Do you still have the Perkins 4.108 in it?

 

Letrappes--

There ar 4 sheaves on the front of the mast at the masthead. The two inner sheaves are for jib halyards, the two outer sheaves are for spinnaker halyards. I have jib halyards on the inner sheaves (primary port, secondary starboard) but do not use the spinnaker sheaves as there seems to be too much chafe on the halyards where they exit the mast. I have instead a spinnaker crane with swivel blocks with the halyards exiting the mast about two feet below the masthead on either side and going up and through the swivels which eliminates most of the chafe at that point. One has to be careful where one secures the unused jib-halyards however as they will chafe the spinnaker halyard between the exit slots and the masthead swivels if one is not careful about securing them clear.

There are also 4 sheaves on the back side of the mast at the masthead, two for main and spare halyards and two more for lifts although I only have a single lift rigged. I do, however have a messenger rigged for the other sheave that can be used to haul a replacement halyard, or topping lift, up and over the spare sheave should that be necessary. (All of my halyards are 10mm T-900 which is a little slick but pretty bullet proof.)

The two stacked sheaves below the steaming/deck light are actually both for topping lifts, one each port and starboard. Because of the baby-stay, the boats were designed to be raced with two spinnaker poles rather than just one. When one wants to gybe, the lee pole is raised, clipped to the lazy sheet, the opposing after guy taken up and the opposing working sheet tripped. Bingo--the spinnaker is gybed and the lazy pole lowered to the deck and secured. Not too many boats were delivered with two poles however (mine was not) and so one must use a dip-pole gybe with the added difficulty of freeing the pole from the mast fitting, passing it forward and around the Baby-stay, and reconnecting it to the mast. That takes a couple of coordinated guys at the mast and leaves the spinnaker "flying" for a few minutes and in any serious wind--say 20+ knots or more, can be pretty exciting. If you're really going to race, buy yourself another pole and mast fitting (available through Rig-Rite) and use the two pole gybe. It's safer and easier. (Or don't and just cruise very quickly!)

A few people have attempted to use the stacked sheaves as you describe, hauling a wire stay to the mast with the upper sheave and using the topping lift in the lower sheave as a halyard for a staysail or storm jib that's hanked on, but the sheaves really aren't sturdy enough for the loads that may be generated in serious conditions, at least in my opinion.

The 4:1 Purchase on the running backs was the factory set-up with wire rope runners. The wire rope is tough to deal with and, if the boom rubs against it anywhere it will eat up the boom. The Spectra runners eliminate that issue, weigh less and have less windage, and since you're not using the secondaries when you're using the runners, can be more than adequately set up with the secondaries. Remember you never really see more than about 2000# on the runners which is easy for the Spectra and secondaries. (You only want to set the runners up enough to keep the mast from pumping and in column.)

Yep. I still have the 4-108. It is a great, sturdy, engine and with up-keep will last a long time. I have about 3300 hours on mine and, with a 2-blade Gori folding prop, have average fuel consumption of slightly under 3/4 Gal per hour at 2500 RPM while making 7+ knots (albeit with a clean bottom).

FWIW...

 

Thanks for the mast head sheave layout. My spinnaker halyards are in the masthead sheaves though having not used then yet, no clue on fiction. I was wondering about three easy way to gybe the spin pole so that makes sense with a two pole layout though I only have one aboard as well. Can you give a layout the same way on the foot of the mast where they all exit?

I actually have a removable inner forestay though but it is connected into the mast about halfway batten the babystay and the forestay. On deck there is an extra padeye behind the anchor locker which ties into the bulkhead before. It has a mechanical fitting to tension which can be removed but no obvious halyard sheave near it other than those fir the pole lift. I'm guesting this wasn't standard with the boat. I'm figuring it's either for a staysail downwind or storm jib.

My Perkins is interesting. I believe the propeller is pitched wrong. I pull nearly 3200 rpm to get to the same speed as you with a clean bottom though fuel usage it's about the same. I've been told by another Perkins owner that theirs was the same but they replaced it ten years ago due to some failure so maybe their memory was wrong. The prop is a two blade non folding. No idea on make.

 

Thanks for the mast head sheave layout. My spinnaker halyards are in the masthead sheaves though having not used then yet, no clue on fiction. I was wondering about three easy way to gybe the spin pole so that makes sense with a two pole layout though I only have one aboard as well. Can you give a layout the same way on the foot of the mast where they all exit?

Hummm... Working from memory, on the starboard side of the mast from front to rear: Spinnaker Halyard, Spare Jib Halyard, Empty Slot for Starboard Pole Lift (Not used), Main Halyard. On the port side of the mast from front to rear: Secondary Spinnaker Halyard, Primary Jib Halyard, Pole Lift, Slot with Messenger for Secondary topping lift, Spare Main Halyard, Topping Lift. (I will check to ensure that the foregoing order is correct but I think so.) Note that the chafe on the spinnaker halyard at the masthead is a real PITA and not many are too thrilled at having to go up there at sea to replace the darned thing when the it breaks. You can add the masthead crane or, alternately, wrap the last 5 feet or so of your spinnaker halyards with Kevlar tape and replace it as necessary (in hindsight I might do that.)

I actually have a removable inner forestay though but it is connected into the mast about halfway batten the babystay and the forestay. On deck there is an extra padeye behind the anchor locker which ties into the bulkhead before. It has a mechanical fitting to tension which can be removed but no obvious halyard sheave near it other than those fir the pole lift. I'm guesting this wasn't standard with the boat. I'm figuring it's either for a staysail downwind or storm jib.

I am assuming your intermediate stay is connected to the mast at about where the slots for the runners are and, if so, your good to go. The tang likely has a spare hole for connecting a swivel block to take a staysail halyard which can be run externally. This is an excellent arrangement and when the stay is set up, you can dispense with the baby-stay which can be moved over and temporarily secured at the lower shroud base leaving room to carry a dinghy inverted on the foredeck. Friends of ours with the same boat (Ocean Angel) who are now waiting for a weather window in Great Bay, Peter Island, BVI for a passage to St. Martin, have this same arrangement and are very happy with it. The stay works for a hanked on storm jib or a non-overlapping staysail which is very effective in heavy air. You might care to correspond with Ocean Angel. They can be reached through their website at Sailing with Ocean Angel

My Perkins is interesting. I believe the propeller is pitched wrong. I pull nearly 3200 rpm to get to the same speed as you with a clean bottom though fuel usage it's about the same. I've been told by another Perkins owner that theirs was the same but they replaced it ten years ago due to some failure so maybe their memory was wrong. The prop is a two blade non folding. No idea on make.

Either your tack is wrong (given the fuel consumption you quote) or the you have an under sized /under pitched prop. (I've not seen a First 42 with a fixed prop so yours might be a replacement?) Our prop is a 10x20 that is a bit over diameter but works well enough. At 3000 RPM I'm pushing 8-1/2 to 9 knots but the fuel consumption goes way up. Our engine is happiest at 2500 to 2800 RPM which keeps us in the 7-8 knot range. We do push it once in awhile but not often (usually only when my wife is tired and she wants to get home "right now" or we're trying to dodge a squall or a ship.) Ocean Angel has a folding 3-blade that I believe is 16" diameter. A bit small but with the added blade seems to work well enough and is quite smooth. As/When/if we win the Lottery, I'm going to switch to a 17x12 3-blade Flex-O-Fold which is very smooth and efficient (in 2006 I was quoted $1600 for that by Cruising Solutions but the price has certainly increased since then).

One thing that you might want to look into a changing out the air intake filter on the engine for a KN Filter, RX 3800 (See KNFilters.com). You have to punch a hole in the side of the housing to take the breather from the crank case but that's easy enough. The through-put is much improved which makes the engine quieter and the crank-case pressure is reduced which really reduces the oil seepage around the rear seal which is a universal affliction of 4-108's.

The 4-108 really is a very good engine and, considering the use in tractors and generators world wide, parts are pretty easy to obtain and repairs effected. As/When/If mine ever needs it, I'll rebuild it before changing to a different engine.

FWIW...

 

Thanks. I'm trying to get everything in line with what you have posted. Do you know a supplier for the sheaves on the boom aft end and aft bottom of mast? I'm missing a few. Also any good idea on how to run new lines inside the mast without getting tangled with the ones currently in place?

I tried looking up the air filter but couldn't find it. They might have updated the number on it. Do you know any dimensions on it?

I really appreciate the help.

 

Letrappes--

Sorry I have been out'a the loop for awhile. My (59 YO) little sister passed away on Feb 1st and we've been dealing with the loss and the aftermath.

RigRite carries the sheaves you need although Garhaurer can also supply them in hardened Aluminum with bearings which are much preferable. When I get home--in'a few daze--I'll PM you the boom spec's and you can compare RigRite and Garhaurer. Frankly I'd suggest Garhaurer but if you choose to do so, don't tell Mark I recommended them. If you do, they'll likely charge you a premium as I've been wheedling Mark's prices down for years--and before him, Bill and Mary's--and they always complain about loosing money on every sale they agree to with me! N'any case, they make the best gear at the best price and stand behind their work. (What'a novelty, eh?)

I gave you the KN web-site. Give them a call and let them know you have a 1985 era 4-108 and they'll fix you up.

FWIW...

svHyLyte

 

Hi, new member here.......I have an original manual that is printed in french(I think I made an english copy...I'll ck). I'll copy and mail. Send address to kiaora-7@comcast.net.
Give me a few weeks...I'm cruising the caribbean and will not be home till sometime in April.
I have an '85 first 42 since 1987. Mostly club race(we have enough B42s to comprise out own section/start) with limited cruising thru the Great Lakes. LOVE THE BOAT!!!

 

Thanks Hylite. I'll give K&N a call. I thought you had manually sized one and didn't realize it was already made up by them.

Beneteau sent me my new keel bolts after being on order about a month. I bought the tools to replace it which included a 1-3/16 socket. I cleaned up keel bolt and tried the socket on it and it's too large. I'm now worried they might have sent me the wrong size bolts. Anyone else experience this? I have taken a bolt out yet to determine bolt size and threads yet.

 

Thanks Hylite. I'll give K&N a call. I thought you had manually sized one and didn't realize it was already made up by them.

Beneteau sent me my new keel bolts after being on order about a month. I bought the tools to replace it which included a 1-3/16 socket. I cleaned up keel bolt and tried the socket on it and it's too large. I'm now worried they might have sent me the wrong size bolts. Anyone else experience this? I have taken a bolt out yet to determine bolt size and threads yet.

Letrappes--

Assuming you have the shoal draft cast iron keel you need 16 M20 20mmx70mm "Dacromatized" Type 8-8 bolts. These will accept a 1-3/16" (i.e. 20mm) socket. If the 1-3/16" socket is too large and that is not due to erosion of the bolt heads, you may have M14 bolts (although I find that unlikely). Your VIN Number (on the upper starboard corner of your transom) should be all that Todd or Warren at BeneteauUSA need to ensure you have gotten the right bolts. If you have the M14 bolts, they need be tightened to an average torque of 50.5 ft-lbs (no less than 36 nor more than 65). If you have M20 bolts, the torque should be an average of 144.5 ft-lbs (no less than 94 nor more than 195). It is possible, but not likely, that you could have A4-70 or A4-80 stainless steel bolts, either M14, M20, or M24 size, but they would not show rusting as do the Dacromatized mild-steel bolts (i.e. they will not give you a warning before they fail).

For what it's worth, I have never heard of a First 42 suffering keel bolt failure and, in the case of our own boat, when we extracted 8 of 16 to replace during our last haul-out, they came out clean and dry and with the sealing compound that had been applied to the top 1/4 of the bolts in March of 1986, still clean, white and pliable, despite many years of hard sailing including at least one rough Trans-Atlantic crossing.

I will send you a Private Message (i.e. "PM") with my home email address and if you respond I will forward a data sheet on the replacement of the keel bolts. Trust me, it "ain't that big'a deal". Go sailing and stop worrying. The boat, like an old horse, will take care of itself (and you in the process).

svHyLyte

 

Its not a manual but I thought you'd get a kick out of it.. an origional page from a sailing rag addvertizing the first 42.. bought it on E-Bay..
Thought Id get a copy but got the origional page as it has a different add on the back..
If you'd like a copy, drop me a private e-mail with your address and Ill send you one..

 

Letrappes,

I know it has been several months since any posts on this forum but wanted to chat with you regarding First 42 in Lake Charles area. I recently purchased a1982 First 42 in Lake Charles and thought it might be the boat you asked about.

 

soldout2sailing:

I didn't see the post until now. I'm guessing it was the same boat as the one on my dock as it's gone now and my neighbors tell me it was headed towards Lake Arthur. If that's right, let me know. Thanks for moving it BTW as I'll be taking over that spot and have a much easier time docking now.

Congratulations on buying your new boat. I talked with some people a few months back who were interested in it as well but I guess you beat them in the end. So where is the boat ending up?

Scott

 

Scott, I am the guy you met from VA who was looking at the boat. I did not go through with the purchase. It was eventually bought by a local, LA guy who owned a smaller Beneteau. I actually would have completed the purchase had it been closer to my home in VA.

 

I would've had a real hard time buying that boat being so far away as well. It could've been a real interesting trip back to VA though but without knowing a lot more about the boat who knows what could've happened. The people on the dock all say it's been at least a couple of years since it left the slip and before that it was pretty much a liveaboard and he rarely went out.

So have you found a boat yet?

 

Funny you should ask about buying, I am having a boat surveyed today, 1/17/13 in St Maarten. If all goes as planned I will complete the purchase on 1/29/13. It is another Beneteau, unfortunately not a First 42 but the next version, a 1992 First 41s5. Boat looks great, it has been upgrade regularly and has a free mooring in St Maarten. Let me know if you decide to sail to ST Maarten and if I am not using the morring you are welcome to moor there, of course, that is if I complete teh purchase.

By the way, you were a big help in my decision on the boat in Lake Charles. The fact that your boat came in better condition, with more equipment and for less money made me go back to teh owner for price consideration. Thanks for the help!

 

Richard,,did you buy the first 41s5? Im the guy from LA that ended up with the 42 from Lake Charles...I may need that slip one day!!! lol

 

Hi,

I bought a Beneteau First 42 from 1983. Can someone send me a Manual (opration or owner's)

regards Lucien

 

You are resuscitating a old thread.
In 1983 you would not normally get manual with a new boat..
You would normally get individual manuals for the major components.
Engine, heater, and so on.

 

ok, thanks. What I need is the electrical sheet for the most... anyone?

 

We may have the schematics in our doc file aboard the boat. I will check later today. If so, how good's your french?

 

My French is not so good... but internet will help translate it. Thx!

 

I have recently purchased a 1985 First 42 “Coyote" in the SF Bay area. Some of you know the PO, vsteveh, who is a great guy, and kept her in nearly immaculate condition. He has also been of immense help in educating me on the details of the boat’s systems.

The (notably persnickety) surveyor was really impressed with the condition of the boat. But there are a number of small items that he recommended I look at. One of these was to replace the hoses at the tank and stove ends of the LPG system. Those hoses were clamped to a copper (or brass?) tubing that goes from the locker to the stove compartment. The surveyor didn’t like the temporary nature of the clamps (so the insurer wants them changed…)

I removed the hoses and took them to an industrial hose shop for replacement, they assumed the copper/brass tubing was 1/4” and made me up some hoses with 1/4” compression fittings. When I got back to the boat, the compression fittings did not work on the pipe as they were just a bit too small. I didn’t have proper calipers with me at the time, but measured the OD of the pipe at 9/32” or just over 7mm. I am 100 miles from the boat, so when I go back I will take calipers.

Does anyone have any experience with what appears to be "std equipment" on the First 42: meaning a copper-like tube (9/32” OD) from the locker to a valve (in the quarter berth locker) terminating in the stove compartment. The Eno stove has the same stubbed pipe end with no fitting. Is there a magic part? Is the best thing to replace the whole thing with a continuous rubber hose? etc...

Thanks for any insights...

 

I'm on my 1983 First 42 right now so I tried to measure it. Mine goes through the bulkhead behind the stove into the hanging locker before the hard tubing begins. It seems to measure just over .29" OD but it's rather hard to get in there with calipers. Just remember if you replace it that the stove is meant to swing so you need something flexible where it connects in the cabin.

 

Thanks. Sounds like the same stuff. Does it have a compression fitting for the hose connection to the metal pipe? Just hoping that is some sort of a standard fitting (in the US).