[DearPrudence]

Having just completed my exterior teak re-finishing project this winter, I will say that when I saw bubbles, I would use a 3M Scotch Brite pad between coats of Cetol. It slowed me down some, but, the results were (are) worth it.

Jeff

 

[rbyham]

I too think wood prep is key. It is very easy to stop just short of the final sanding surface needed. Any "soft" teak layer will create a less than perfect application of any varnish. My guage for having reached the right level of sanding is when a tack cloth run over the surface does not catch at all... My recommendation would be to work with a short section and take it to complete smooth 400 grit. If that works you have your answer...

 

[heelangle]

I have been using the Cetol Marine for 4 years now. Holds up much better than Spar Varnish, although not much chance for sun damage here in the Pacific NW.
In Hawaii my 5 coats of Spar Varnish used to last 6 months.
I have found the Cetol Marine a durable finish that holds up well and is scratch resistant. My last 4 coats lasted over 3 years. The only thing I don't love is the color. Seems they add some sort of iron compound to decrease sun damage to the finish, and it works!
If you are going to use it, don't shake it, or any varnish product. Only stir it and get all the thick stuff up from the bottom of the can. Shaking will cause bubbles. Also, I cannot believe all the people using sponge brushes. OK, so you are in Tahiti and can't find a Lowes, that is a good excuse. Otherwise, buy a good china bristle brush and go slowly for a really nice finish.
I don't like the Cetol Gloss finish. Way too shiny and way to slippery!
Teak forever.

 

[CapnChuck]

Our boat spends most of its life in south Florida and the Bahamas. We have found, over the years, that the base coat last a very short time without the gloss. It might not be a problem in northern climates. We try and spend as little time as needed in northern climates. Chuck

 

[Seaduction]

Our boat spends most of its life in south Florida and the Bahamas. We have found, over the years, that the base coat last a very short time without the gloss. It might not be a problem in northern climates. We try and spend as little time as needed in northern climates. Chuck

Right on! Cetol now recommends 2 or 3 coats of Cetol (light, natural or regular) followed by 2 coats of gloss.

 

[NewBaySailor]

It's been a year, but I'd like to add my voice to the mix - I have used cetol for almost 5 years and find that the Jenn foam brushes work best - they're available on E-bay. I have not had a problem with air bubbles in the finish, using a light touch, not over-working it on the wood, and keeping a wet edge. Also, I'd add that I use about 2 coats of cetol marine, and then follow up with one coat of cetol gloss, which seems to help maintain the finish longer. I let each coat dry, sand lightly or use a green 3m scrub pad, and then apply next coat. B.

 

[lennyv]

Try wiping the wood with acetone before applying the cetol. It will remove moisture from the wood. Also let the cetol breathe a few moments in the shade after stirring. I use cetol with a foam brush and put it on as thin as possible. A few thin coats are better than 1 thick coat. Good luck

 

[JimsCAL]

Redid all the outside teak on my Cal 33 this spring. Took off the varnish with Citristrip, then heat gun on the tough spots, then sanding. Used Cetol Natural Teak and had no problems. I followed the recommendation on the can for the "two rag" cleaning using paint thinner. I like the look of the Natural Teak. Matches to color of varnished teak very well.

 

[FloridaBoy]

Gentlemen, Please forgive me for bringing up this old thread but it was so helpful. I've been Cetol'ing the outside teak. Not much to it, companionway boards, a few hand rails, some trim. Didn't start with much knowledge but I've got a poop load now. Most of this stuff I brought home and am doing in the house where the light is good and you can SEE EVERY DUST PARTICLE! For days I thought they were bubbles but it was dust as so clearly stated by Seaduction, in this thread. When I read that I went in and looked closely and sure 'nuff, thats what it was. I've been sanding and swearing and doubled up on my dose of Prozac, couldn't figure it out. Now I turned the ceiling fan off and got me a tack rag and move real slowly and I've got three nice coats of clear on with no DUST! Looks almost perfect. Of course, as usual, by the time I figure it out, I'm almost done. Oh, well....I appreciate all I read here by you geniuses. Here some links to pics....kevin

 

[Minnewaska]

FB, looks good from here!! Congrats.

As I said above, I'm not a big fan of Cetol. I truly hope your experience is better. Does it require a primary thinned coat to penetrate the wood?

 

[FloridaBoy]

No Minnewaska, I don't have the can with me but I believe it says not to thin. So, when did I start following directions??? At 45 bucks a can, I'm reading the label. The label says thick coat but I found that a thin coat was much better. Did not sag like when I started with the thick coat. Every experienced sailor at my marina had tried about 5 different methods over the years, I just picked Cetol to be my first. Several guys are now using Ace Hardware Spar Varnish, some Captains and some those 2 part varnishes. So, who knows. I'm committed now, so , I'll let you know as the years go by. One thing, varnishing bright work is TOUGH! Taping and stirring and crouching. And waiting for 24 hrs is a *****! Dad gum, I don't wanna do this again next year. Think I'll sew some hatch covers and rail covers this month! LOL Kevin

 

[svHyLyte]

...Dad gum, I don't wanna do this again next year. Think I'll sew some hatch covers and rail covers this month! LOL Kevin

Kevin--

We have been using Cetol here in southwest Florida for about the last 7 years. As long as one keeps up with the clear coat, refinishing is unnecessary. A light buffing with a 3M Scratch pad and a single clear coat at roughly 6 - 9 month intervals is all that's necessary (covers will help however). Invariably, some of the bright work will be damaged. For that I have a couple of my wife's discarded finger nail polish bottles (with brush applicators). One of "Natural Teak" base coat and one of Clear coat. With these I can make quick repairs of scratches/divots in the finish when they occur. (We use the "5 Foot Rule"--if it looks good from 5 feet away, it's good enough.) Eventually one does have to remove the old finish and start over. I have found that the best way to remove old Cetol is with a cabinet scraper and, when necessary, a modest application of heat (while I have a heat gun, I also have an old hair dryer that, on high, puts out enough heat to soften the old finish for removal without the danger of singing the underlying wood. A good sanding with 180, followed by 320, followed by a good wipe down with lint free cloths and 90% alcohol from the pharmacy seem to be all that's necessary in re: preparation. I use a single coat of "Natural Teak" followed by three coats of Clear seems to get us back in business pretty quickly. Tip: Use a high quality natural bristle brush to apply the finish. While costly, the results are notably better than can be achieved with a disposable brush or foam brush. Cleaning the brush thoroughly with brush cleaner after use and storing it wrapped in wax paper in a zip-lock bag will preserve the brush for many years.

FWIW...

 

[FloridaBoy]

Hey HyLyte, I did most of that. Used stripper from Home Depot, then 2 part teak cleaner, like that stuff, looks like fresh sawn wood. Sand a little, 3 coats per directions and 2 coats of gloss. But if you are doing well with 1 and 3 then I might try that next time. Used a china boar bristle brush and I clean them well. I cleaned the Natural Teak brush with acetone but when I used acetone for the gloss brush, it got all sticky and wads of stuff built up on the brush. I didn't want to buy the 29 dollar a quart Special thinner 216 recommended. The ingredients were 75 percent xylene and 25 benzene something or other, so I got some xylene for 8 bucks a quart at HD and that worked great. And I wrap my brushes like you say. I should of sanded more but I didn't want to take off too much wood. All in all it looks great. It was so shabby since I bought the boat a year and a half ago, it looks sweet now. Gotta word the next three days, gonna rain anyway here in Cocoa,Fl. Ought to have it finished next week. Appreciate the guidance from everyone. I'll post a pic when it's done. Kevin

 

[FloridaBoy]

Guess I'm gonna have to do those 70 feet of toe rail next! Kevin

 

[Minnewaska]

Guess I'm gonna have to do those 70 feet of toe rail next! Kevin

After years of battling the toe rail, I finally stripped it back to bare and let it grey. I think it's the absolute toughest to keep the brightwork in good shape. It's not because it gets kicked, it's because it's nearly impossible to seal the edges against the deck and keep water from getting behind the finish. Same if you have hardware attached. Getting water under any brightwork is a certain blister and repair.

All my brightwork is now in the cockpit, where it remains relatively covered.