from the top of the mast take the wires & feed noodles(pool float noodles) over them , you will never hear them again, (can be found at the dollar store)

 

Years ago I did something similar on my 27 foot boat about 25 years ago. I am planning to do it again on my Etap 26 in a couple of weeks. I bought a sheet of 2" thick Ethafoam (like the pool noddle material but black). I hold it against the bottom of the mast and trace around the mast with a marker, then cut it out with a serrated steak knife so it is oversized and fits tight in the mast. I cut a V groove on the forward edge for the wires. I cut a round hole in the center for the halyards. I push them into the bottom of the mast using my whisker pole, and also from the top. The wires are pinned tight to the front of the mast. The halyards are kept centered in the mast too. So everything is absolutely silent!

Gary H. Lucas

 

try tie-raps, or zap-straps, or whatever you want to call them. Wrap them around the wires but don't cut them. Leave the tails long, and you will find that the self-center in the middle of the mast......use three in each position.

 

Oh good, this doesn't sound so bad. I wonder though? At the top of the mast I have a cap that holds the pullies for the halyards and also connects to the backstay and forestay. I imagine that I am going to need to take this whole thing off. Without a backstay and forestay I am thinking that it might be scary climbing the mast using only the support of the four side stays? Perhaps I haven't looked closely enough at the top of the mast to see where a pool float foam can fit .down the mast. I love the idea.

 

Or, you could do the job right by dropping the stick and installing conduit.

 

I have been thinking of the same thing and have heard of a variety of such ideas involving padding, zap straps, and conduit. As for installing through the mast-head, I don't know about your boat, but on mine, the top of the masthead can be removed without unstaying the mast. This is important for maintenance of halyard sheaves etc; have a look at yours.

Sadly I have no wires running to the mast head, just a running light on the front of the mast about halfway up, so I have to unstep the mast to get at the wires.

 

My mast cap is welded on, so not all are removable.
I wonder if the foam tubes that (northern) hardware stores sell for insulating 1/2 or 3/4" copper tubing would be easier to get down the mast than noodles--smaller diameter.
I would not disconnect the stays.
I pulled the wiring out and used 3 zip ties every 2 feet or so and it worked, but the hardware on the mast can make noise, too. My backstay adjusters rattled like crazy. So can the halyards.
I've heard of people pouring styro "peanuts" down the mast, too. I think multihullers like it because it also adds floatation, for what that's worth to you.

 

The right way to do this is to install conduit. I think the next best is the wire tie method. I don't like stuffing things down the mast or using the "pool noodle" idea-- I'll guarantee the halyard will get jammed on those things, or they'll get sucked into a sheave just when you're trying to drop the sail ahead of a big squall.

 

Pull the rig, remove the wire harness and either put in a conduit (the best idea) or get some of the copper pipe insulation (get the best stuff you can the cheap stuff breaks down fast) and put use wire ties bigger/thicker is better.

 

I have the same problem and can't access the inside of the mast from the top and with a keel stepped mast its a pain to pull. for the short term you might try pulling some of the slack out of the wire that is allowing it to bounce around inside. Pull the slack and secure it. Helped a bit with mine.

 

Looking to do the same with my boat. My halyards are all external, the cap comes off, and my mast comes down each winter. I like the copper pipe insulation idea, but I'm curious why so many people have suggested the conduit is the best idea. Would the conduit itself not bounce around just as the wires did?

 

I had to remove my old too small conduit with larger. I riveted it in. First I drilled the holes in the mast. I then inserted the conduit with cut outs where the wires were to exit the mast. Then using a special jig I made to weigh down the conduit I drilled the conduit and put in the rivet. Then on to the next position. I really need to create a page on it. Here is a link to the jig. Special Jigs / Tools | Sailing Vessel Vigah (Near bottom of the page)

I drilled a set of two holes every 4 ft. The mast is 59 ft.

 

The cost of dropping the stick and installing conduit, then re-fishing the wires and having the stick refit, for my Morgan 33 Out Island, was quoted from three outfits at $700 to $900. Buy the pool noodles, shove them in from the top and the problem is solved. I no longer go up the mast (I'm much too old, and maybe smarter) so to have someone at the marina using a cherry picker insert the pool noodles will cost me about $150.

Gary

 

Noodles are a short term fix with long term negative affects.
Eventually the disintegrate and turn to foam “dust”and when wet will wash down into your bilge creating a gritty black speckled grime.
The OP of my boat did this and it took me a number of years to clean this all up entirely

 

Noodles are a short term fix with long term negative affects.
Eventually the disintegrate and turn to foam “dust”and when wet will wash down into your bilge creating a gritty black speckled grime.
Clogged up the bilge pump a few times.
The OP of my boat did this and it took me a number of years to clean this all up entirely

 

Well, you can always fill the mast with tennis balls.

Gary

 

Lolololol

 

Or, you could try to not be so sensitive to rather quiet but reoccurring noises.

 

When I rewired my mast several years ago, the foam the P.O. had used to keep the previous wires from clanging had rotted and disintegrated. A ROYAL pain to deal with. I used the nylon wire-tie trick that one of the posters on the first page of this thread had mentioned back in 2011; three wire-ties every few feet with the tails left extended 120 degrees from each other in sort of a three-point star. Worked wonderfully ever since, and VERY easy to do.