Are you talking about the 1-1/2" ID hose that goes from the deck fill to the tank?? If so, you need to use something like THIS.

 

Sir, yes that is the hose I need to replace. I did know the type of hose I need to use. I was asking more about the steps and precautions in replacing the hose.

thanks, Russ

 

Ahh... Well, I would highly recommend double clamping both sides, and routing the hose as straight as possible. Try not to leave the hose with any dips in it, where fuel might remain for extended periods of time.

Obviously, don't smoke and be careful when you are taking the hose off, as the fumes will get out of the tank. Use ignition protected lights if you can.

I'd also air the boat out really well after replacing the hose, and then check for any leaks at the hose attachment points.

Using a heat gun to loosen the hoses, as you would in most other situations, is a bad idea... so if the hoses are stuck on the fittings, use a towel soaked in boiling water instead to heat the hose up and make it easier to remove. Heating the ends of the new hose this way will make them much easier to install as well.

 

Sailingdog, thanks much for this information. Do you think I should drain the tank before this work. Also, would you advise I temporarily plug the gas tank opening after detaching the hose from this.

Take care, Russ

 

Russ, I think you should run the engine until the tank is low, hahaha, why not have a good excuse to motor about in a pretty yacht?

I must be lucky; my fuel tank and filler hose I had to replace is in the lazarette, sounds like you have some distance to run?

It's all the same either way, use good ventilation and common sense. You may want to check the lines for your fuel supply, vent, the wire for grounding and the hose clamps and connections while you are at it. This can keep from having to bust knuckles on it twice...

 

Don't drain the tank. An empty tank has more fumes.

I don't think you need to plug the tank opening, if you are ready to put the new hose on right away. Remove the hose from the fill neck first, put the new hose on the fill neck. After you take the hose off the fill neck you could stuff an old piece of cloth (spare sock) in it to help control the fumes. Then do the tank fitting last. Some soapy water will help get the hose back on, just enough to coat the inside of the hose and the fitting.

Another easy to remove stuck hoses is to take a razor blade and slice the hose that is on the fitting. Just split it from the end to past the end of the fitting and then you can peel it off. Much easier than trying to pull it off.

Make sure to turn off all the electric in the boat. Unplug from shore power and disconnect any batteries. Vent the boat before hooking any electric back up.

If it is a warm sunny day you can leave the hose out in the sun for a while before you get started. The heat from the sun will make the hose a little more flexible. If it is cold when you do this take the new hose home and inside over night to warm it up and try not to leave it out too long while working. Cold hoses don't like to flex.


good idea Lancer. about check the other lines and wires

 

There are two schools of thought on draining the fuel. The first is that you should drain as much of the fuel as possible—less fuel, less fuel to leak. The second is that you should have the tank fairly full, since that will minimize the amount of vaporized fuel/air that it contains, and a full tank has less surface area to evaporate gasoline off and less volume of fuel/air fumes. Personally, I'd leave the tank full myself... YMMV.

As for plugging the opening—that is probably a good idea if you are going to need to leave the hose off for some time.... the less exposure to gasoline fumes you get, the better. One of my friends used a thin styrofoam coffee cup to plug the opening, putting it inside the filler pipe, and then mounted the hose over it. The gasoline will dissolve the styrofoam cup. I don't know what the styrofoam will do to the engine, but if it is a large gas tank, I doubt it'll have any serious effects on it—since it is just polystyrene foam, and styrene is a hydrocarbon, like gasoline's components. BTW, would recommend you use a plain white styrofoam cup, if you're going to do this....as the colors may cause problems.

 

I wouldn't bother with the styrofoam cup...seems poor practice when compared to better preparation.

I replaced all fuel side components for my Atomic 4 in 2005. It's a very good idea to do so if it's all 1970s stuff.

You can loosen up the new fill hose AWAY from the tank by finding an appropriate 1 1/2" OD pipe (galvanized or PVC) to fit your 1 1/2" ID fuel fill.

Measure the old fuel fill with a cloth tape on the outside curve. Add a couple of inches for "play". Cut the new hose to this new length.

Use the heat gun on deck or on the dock (or soak the hose end in near-boiling water) and put lithium or other light grease on the pipe end. Work the pipe onto the hose or vice-versa...you might want to clamp one or the other in a cloth-lined vise or bench clamps. Work it on to a greater "depth" than the fuel fill or the deck fill barbs...four inches should do it. Use a circular sweeping motion to evenly stretch the hose end. Put double SS hose clamps on either end, reversed so that the bolts will be easily turned at "9 and 3 o'clock". Tighten them loosely. Now you have a prepared fuel fill hose with clamps at the ready with slightly "flared" ends. Lightly lube the ends with lithium grease.

Remove the old hose. This will involve a bit of twisting, likely. Clean off the deck fill and tank fill barbs. Either grease or soap them with a dab of dishwashing soap. The pre-flared hose should go on easily and the tightening with a ratchet wrench should take two minutes (depending on access...I have to work blind with the deck fill end!).

This method minimizes the amount of time spent with an open tank (which I agree should be 95% full) that you are sweating over, and gets you past the "dammit, why won't it fit?" stage. Double clamping at opposing angles means the hose will fit very snugly.

Were I you, I would consider replacing the vent line at the same time and the tank to Atomic 4 feed line (usually a 3/8 taken down to a 1/4" with a coupler).

A fuel-water separator and a ball valve shut-off AWAY from the engine is also a great idea. Mine is in the engine compartment, but it is firmly mounted on the aft bulkhead, and in the case of a fire, I could turn it off with a boathook very quickly.

Hope this helps.

 

Folks, thank you very much for all your advice. This is exactly what I needed.

Happy sailing, Russ