I think mine are sta set x

Sites-WestMarine-Site

West Marine

www.westmarine.com

 

I wanted something economical and after checking the manual for what was original factory spec on my Hunter 36, I went with:

Jib: Samson XLS3
Main (traditional): New England Ropes VPC

I haven't had any issues with the jib. I haven't yet installed the VPC. Will be doing it in a couple of days.

 

I think Viper is a good choice for your boat and usage. Sta-Set X is one I truly hate. Nothing good about it. It kinks, gets stiff, a bugger to splice, cover gets burned and rough - strength and stretch are the only moderately decent aspects of it, but there are others that are equal for same price.

We have some Samson Rope MLX3 as sheets, and this would also make a good halyard for you. It is similar in construction and material to Viper.

We use Endura braid, but we need the strength and stretch of SK75 dyneema. It would be overkill for your application.

Mark

 

Viper and VPC are both great choices for cruising boat halyards. Since cruisers tend to be out sailing in all kinds of weather and do not have big crews to make frequent halyard adjustments, cruisers generally can not deal with stretchy halyards powering up their sails in gusty conditions.

If you compare working strength and stretch of out of date polyester products like Sta-set X or Sta-set double braid to a either Viper or VPC, you can generally buy a one size smaller diameter Viper or VPC and still have greater strength and less stretch. And typically that one size smaller will be less expensive. For example, if you were planning to use 3/8" Sta-set X it would cost $1.79 per foot vs. 8mm VPC at $1.29 per foot and the VPC would be stronger and have less stretch. 7/16" Viper is a little more expensive than 8mm VPC but Viper is stronger and stretches less than VPC but is still only $1.39 per foot, I personally like the cover on VPC better than that on the Viper, but I think that the Viper is a better core.

Viper is easier to splice reliably than Sta-set X and a much nicer line to handle.

Jeff

(PS- Full disclosure- the quoted prices are from West Marine and I work part time at West Marine. Your preferred chandlery may vary.)

 

Replaced my jib halyard this spring with VPC on my Cal 33-2.. Had replaced the main halyard with VPC a few years ago and I have been happy with it.

Edit: FWIW I found the best deal at West Marine! Prespliced halyard 110' of 10mm VPC with shackle for $185. Even came in a nice bag which I am now using to hold my sail ties.

 

How old are your halyards? How long do you expect them to last? Mine are decades I think.

 

Both my jib and main halyard are VPC. My jib halyard is 14 years old and my main halyard is probably 12 years old.

You should probably replace your halyards if they are actually several decades old and Sta-set X since the linear core on Sta-set X gets pretty unreliable after that long.

Jeff

 

I'm using VPC, 1 season with Sta Set X was all I could take, It hockles like crazy, a real pain in the ass. I was able to downsize 1 size for less friction better handling better strength and lower stretch. Now in my 5th season with it, I have a 742 Sq. Ft. main and still very happy with it. The Sta set has been relegated to the spare halyard position.

 

I've ordered halyards from Cajun Ropes a couple of times. Pricing is better than most and he discounts the first orders from each state, so it pays to order early. Great guy to do business with and he does excellent work on the splices. I ordered XLE for my boat. If you want a custom length, go to the rope under products rather than the halyard choice, and then you can specify exact length.

CAJUN ROPES

Custom Yacht Rigging. Halyards, Docklines, Mooring lines, Towing Bridles, Anchors, Stainless steel marine hardware

www.cajunrope.com

 

While XLE is less expensive than Sta-set or Sta-set, it is a lower grade polyester double braid line that is unsuitable for halyards or sheets. XLE has 11% less working capacity and has higher elongation as a percentage of work loading than line that would be suitable for halyards and sheets.

Jeff

 

The number of choices of rope stock is overwhelming, to me at least. Is there an independent resource that has all the aforementioned parameters for direct side by side comparison of all (or many) the prominent brands and models? That would be great.
As it is, I see a bunch of personal anecdotes and one to one comparisons.

 

While there are a number of choices, it really boils down to a few manufacturers with similar products. It is best to approach a rope decision by figuring out what the parameters need to be, then choose the appropriate product from any manufacturer that is convenient. For example, you need a low stretch high strength halyard. This would be a HMPE or HMPE blend. Go to NE Ropes, or Samson Ropes, or Marlow, or etc and you will find an offering or two of each, and the choice between them will be more clear from the specifications and descriptions.

Personally, I see little reason to get polyester double braid for halyards and sheets anymore. It is really old stuff and the pricing is so close to better rope that it makes sense to move up to the HMPE core dependent blends. They are far easier to splice, handle much better, stronger and less stretch for a given size, and have longer life.

Mark

 

Thanks. Good suggestions. FWIW, I would be replacing wire spliced to rope halyards (pause for onslaught of derision on my holding on to those).
I assume nothing more than keeping the same or smaller rope is all I have to do.

 

I would buy a pre-spliced halyard when I replace.

 

I have also been happy with Cajun Ropes.

I will caution you to get halyards of the correct diameter (i.e. do not go up a size). Any size larger diameter halyards will chafe on the sheaves and you will be replacing the halyards sooner than you should.

 

I think I still have the halyards which came with the boat 37 years ago and the were 1/2" or 12mm. I think 10mm or even 8mm would be fine... but I am still using 12mm (dumb).

 

Buying pre-spliced is fine, but these ropes are so easy to splice that one can even do interesting things with them. Here is an example of our jib and screecher sheets, where I integrated a soft shackle on to the ends. I'm a terrible splicer of double braid, but HDMP is so easy it makes one feel like a professional.

Mark

 

Buying pre-spliced is fine, but these ropes are so easy to splice that one can even do interesting things with them.

I am assuming you are talking about single braid lines. I redid my lifelines with dyneema with simple bury splices and agree it's easy. However most of the lines we are talking about require a core dependent splice which is not trivial. Unless you have done a few, I would pay to have it done. Defender and many others will sell you whatever line you want and put a splice in for you.

 

Anyone have trouble getting smaller diameter modern line to hold in rope clutches, or self-tailers?

 

All line regardless of type needs to be sized to the clutches and tailers (or vice-versa). Old clutches with larger lines can have worn cams, where smaller lines can slip even though they are still within the range of the clutch specs. New cams will solve that.

Another approach is to insert a length of line in the core where it will be in the clutch. This makes the line thicker in that area.

Mark

 

The integrated soft shackle is an example of this where the cover isn't used. The core comes out of the cover, makes a loop, is buried back into itself, then pulled out again to form the knot for the shackle (see red line). The cover is just folded back and tucked in - it isn't part of the splice.

This would basically be an eye splice if I hadn't pulled the core back out to form the knot. Of course, if I was doing an eye splice, I would just fold and tuck the cover through the eye instead of the shackle loop. The typical polyester covers add very little protection from chafe, and only modest protection from UV. I generally paint Maxijacket on the bare dyneema rather than splice the cover over.

Alternately, an eye splice can be fully covered with a little more work and a slightly different splice.

Alternately, alternately, when I do want extra chafe protection, I do eye splices with dyneema or technora chafe covers instead of the polyester cover that comes with the line. Same idea - do the bury splice on the dyneema core and just tuck the ends of the chafe cover back in.

Mark

 

Lots of useful advice given, and I would add one more caution. Do not select your line based on whether you might or might not every enter a "race".... This decision needs to be about sailing the boat. Try to keep that "R" word out of your boat equipment vocabulary.

We changed from the OEM wire-to-rope lines about 20 years ago. Very low stretch T-900. Still works great. 5/16" and they hold in our clutches, both the OEM brand, and recently some new Lewmar's .
Also would add my vote to avoid 'cheap' line and avoid 'sta-set X'.

As for termination of the halyard, opinions vary. While the braided-in loop for a shackle looks way cool, the fat part of the buried core can jam in a sheave at the top of the mast. I use (that's actually the name) a halyard knot, and seize the little short protruding line end. That way I can easily bring down the halyards every couple of seasons, replacing each with a tag line. Launder them, and reverse them.

But, as some sage once observed here, "your boat your rules".....

 

Lots of useful advice given, and I would add one more caution. Do not select your line based on whether you might or might not every enter a "race".... This decision needs to be about sailing the boat. Try to keep that "R" word out of your boat equipment vocabulary.

We changed from the OEM wire-to-rope lines about 20 years ago. Very low stretch T-900.

T-900 IS a racing line. A very high performance, low stretch rope. We had that for many years until I got so frustrated with hockeling and stiffness that we tossed it for a covered dyneema rope. Otherwise, it is a good halyard choice.

As for termination of the halyard, opinions vary. While the braided-in loop for a shackle looks way cool, the fat part of the buried core can jam in a sheave at the top of the mast.

That built-in soft shackle was for sheets, not a halyard. It actually has no fat part in the throat like an eye splice, so could be used for a full-hoist halyard. All of the bury is in the shackle itself. However, I don't think a halyard is a good use for it.

Mark

 

I like to remove all my halyards for the winter (I'm in Michigan so the boat gets stored on the hard). The mast comes down as well and must be stored outside. I've told myself that when it comes time to replace my halyards I will have the supplier not only provide a pre-installed shackle but also provide a nice tight spliced loop in the opposite end. That will make it easier to tie on signal lines for halyard removal and re-install.

 

I will have the supplier not only provide a pre-installed shackle but also provide a nice tight spliced loop in the opposite end. That will make it easier to tie on signal lines for halyard removal and re-install.

You don't want a spliced loop on that end - you want a reeving eye (also called a flemish eye). This is a non-structural eye formed by the cover only tucked back in and sewn. A spliced loop, no matter how tight, will jam and cause problems when using it to remove/reinstall the halyard. These are super simple to make, so you could put them into your current halyards. You don't even need to tuck the cover back in - just sew it along side the line.

Mark

 

Thanks Mark. That is very helpful to know.

-Doug