Do you have a toerail?If so I will give you C&Cs solution. Easier to maintain and doesn't go through the gel coat.

 

Yes my tartan 30 has a toerail.

 

I have some deck hardware that is mounted through aluminum plates that are sandwiched in the deckcore. The plates must have been drill and tapped because there are no nuts, just the bolts sticking through.

A major pain in the ass because they were bolted using flatheads, and its impossible to get enough leverage to remove them after 30years

 

Old flatheads: Best odds are with a screwdriver reground if necessary for the right fit, and then using a handheld impact driver and maul instead of a regular screwdriver on them. The impact diver makes a big difference on parts like that, which aren't going to run away from it.

 

My Beneteau also has it's stanchions bolted to the toerail. No deck penetration. They seem very solid.

 

Our C&C 35 MKIII has stanchion holders bolted through the toerail. No real deck intrusion that way and no problem with leaking issues either. Gates may take a stanchion strut.

Either type B,C, D may fit over your toerail
South Shore Yachts | Certified Yacht Broker, C&C Parts and Service » Stanchion Bases

 

An equally big benefit of those "holey rail" stanchion bases can be the increased side deck width you gain. Numerous small boats have unusable side decks because the normal stanchion bases intrude so far.

The first time I sailed a Grampian 26 I thought of them - they would be one of the very first changes I would make if I bought one of those boats - you would actually be able to use the side decks instead of clambering over that high cabin top.

 

My 'toe rails' are two inch thick teak that is 6 inches wide, sitting on a bulwark that is from 8 to 3 inches high.
They are screwed in. It would take 10 inches of bolt to get to where you can put a nut on it.
Seems light weight? It's been there for 27 years.

 

The downside to bolting stanchions into the toe rail is that the toe rail now has to be much stronger, and the stanchion will be levering it off the hull/deck joint and opening that up in typical construction. This is not a one-size-fits-all retrofit, in some cases it could be a very bad idea. In others, an equally good one.

And of course if you have modern slotted aluminum RAILS designed to be used with "stuff", there's no way to bolt stanchions onto them. Not a lot of heavy teak lumber rails on small craft.

 

The stanchion holder has a slot in it which fits over the toe rail, It is then bolted to the toe rail and then the deck. Our toe rails are bolted onto the hull deck joint with 4 inch centers, all great strength vs a stanchion base embedded in the gelcoat and bolted through it.

If the stanchion gets struck or wears over time it wobbles in the base vs eventually weaking the gel coat and causing leaks like many stanchions.

You have to have the proper toe rails of course, but this design is a pretty good one. As was stated you it also gives you more room on the gunwhales. The disadvantage is they are more outboard and you must be careful of pilings when docking.

 

The stanchion holder has a slot in it which fits over the toe rail, It is then bolted to the toe rail and then the deck. Our toe rails are bolted onto the hull deck joint with 4 inch centers, all great strength vs a stanchion base embedded in the gelcoat and bolted through it.

Unless I'm mistaken, with those rail mounts, the bolt that goes through the deck utilizes one of the existing holey rail bolt holes as well, so no extra drilling.

 

On the C&C ones, there are two on the base which re 4" apart and can utilize the exciting toe rail bolts. Not all toe rils have 4" apart though. Additionally there is a horizontal bolt through the stanchion base which after it is put over the toerail slot holds the base to the toerail.

South Shore Yachts | Certified Yacht Broker, C&C Parts and Service » Type C Base

 

How the hell does one bed a screw when you can not hold it steady while putting on the nut?

 

That's what crew or helpers are for - they hold the other end steady.

 

Well in my case there is no other end. Just screws going through aluminum that is sandwiched inbetween the glass. No bolts or nuts. Maybe a bolt but no nut.

 

In that situation the screw carries some of the bedding with it as it is screwed in - just make sure you start with lots.

 

Yep

 

I need to make one more post so I can see images.
I need to see toe rail attachments.