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How far back do you tow dinghy?

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16K views 29 replies 25 participants last post by  TomMaine  
#1 ·
When towing a dinghy what distance should you have between the stern and the dinghy? Does it depend on LWL and wake etc?

When I got some towing line at west marine I can't remember what they recommended but it seems like that dinghy was way way back there. Also, it seemed like my boat's wake pushed it way off to starboard plus it took on a bunch of water. When I pulled it in closer it seemed to create less resistance, track better and it's bow was pulled up a bit which seemed like a good idea.

Of note, mine is an inflatable kayak from advanced elements and I like it a lot. Was hoping I wouldn't have to deflate it and stow it in my sailboat every time I left an anchor.
 
#3 ·
Well...aside from extreme laziness in saving a few minutes of pumping...the distance varies. Use a long line that can be adjusted...assuming adjusting a line is not too much work :) To minimize drag at the expense of some stability the dinghy can be positioned so it is surfing on one of the stern waves. If it is long you might also be able to get the towline caught in the rudder or prop. If it is not too much effort one can shorten the line up before maneuvering for a mooring.
 
#5 ·
The only thing that rivals the condescension of this comment is its utter uselessness. Just forget I asked the question so you won't waste any more of your time or mine. Polypropylene line floats and won't get caught in the prop. It's not a matter of laziness but rather wanting to preserve some cabin space for my family and friends. Not planning to read any more of your posts on this thread. Thanks for nothing.
 
#4 ·
In the short chop we get in Georgia Strait I like to tow just off the lee side of the transom, about a dinghy length back. There it lies in the flatter water off the run, ships less water and seems better behaved.
 
#7 ·
There maybe recommended distances, but those are always tempered with real life experience. Take it out and tow it around for a while, pull it in, let it out, find out where it likes to ride, and that will be the right place. The guy at San Juan Sailing said the most important thing is to make sure your tow line never comes near the engine exhaust. Apparently they've lost some that way..
 
#10 · (Edited)
Yup!!!
Also be aware that pulling a kayak can subject them to 'yawing' which can easily invert them (filling them with water) if the gyrations become violent. When towing a kayak in chop, I sometimes tow a warp behind the kayak to help keep it from wildly swinging side to side (due to effect of waves and the changing static 'hull speed' it planes/surfs at changeable rates due to varying waterline length due to waves).

I usually tow my Advanced Elements inflatable kayak quite close to my stern and with the bow slightly raised out of the water to keep it stable in moderate to rough water.
Hard shell kayaks are the most unstable when towed; they seem to tow 'better' with a bow eye attached at the waterline than at the highest portion of the bow.
Its not 'fun' trying to rescue a swamped water filled hard shell kayak when in steep chop - if possible put a 'spray cover' over the 'seat area' when towing to keep the water out if it becomes inverted.

;-)
 
#16 · (Edited)
Bingo! Our RIB is adjusted frequently so it surfs the stern wave.... The difference in drag between surfing and towing is huge. (Been meaning to measure it with my strain gauge..)

In rough weather it goes on the foredeck, in very light winds it goes in the davits, on the mooring it is in the davits (prevents growth) but most of the time it is towed.

TIP: For a downwind run, with a medium following sea, where we are already hitting hull speed, I drop the Pelican dinghy wheels which eliminates the RIB surging up to the stern. She tows beautifully and behaves like a champ. We probably have well over 35k nm towing a dinghy and never once an ounce of problems. Just be smart about it....
 
#11 ·
#12 · (Edited)
I never really gave it much thought , When we are in the marina , mooring field , anchorage we pull it in close . Under way 10'-15' back . We tie a bridle to spread out the attachment points . This thread is getting me thinking maybe I should get a stretchy line or put a snuber for a tow line .


Here I got lazy .
 
#13 ·
If you like your dink and want to keep it, you will find some way to store it aboard.
A towed dink, even a stable one like an inflatable with a decent keel, is just a disaster waiting to happen. They can run up on the tow line, broach, fill with water or a dozen other things that will cause serious damage. If you don't notice the tow line break, bye bye dinghy; it happens almost daily on the bare boats down here during the season.
Anyway, towing distance will be different almost every time you go out, as the conditions will not be identical each time you go out.
 
#15 ·
I wish more members would put their boat make/model in their signature line. I was about to ask why not just haul a kayak onto the foredeck and lash it down or to the lifelines. Then I thought to look up the OPs profile and see they drive a Ranger 24. That clears up the issue of not having room above or below.

The only issue I find important is using a double bridle, preferably attached to a ring on each side of the kayak for stability. If you tie on the back side of a wake, it's probably more stable and creates more drag. On the front side, less drag and less stable. Sea condition matters. YMMV

Example:

C-Level Dinghy Towing Bridle
 
#17 ·
Davits are a wonderful thing if you like to sail. It's amazing how much drag even a small RIB generates. Maybe be worth a whole knot even on a 40-50' when wind is light.
Other then very short sails on very benign days up she goes.
There she doesn't produce drag, is less likely to be stollen, does get growth on her bottom and is out of harms way docking. Only when anchored and going in and out does she stay wet.
Wife's favorite spot is feet in the water on the sugar scoop shaded by the ding.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Agree with getting it to surf "downhill" on your second stern wave. Much less drag, and you are pulling the bow more "upward" in relation to the wake than when it's on the back of your stern wave, so less tendency to take on spray or casual water. Less strain and chafe, too. And having the towing fitting on the dink fairly far down the bow rather than up at the rail, helps a lot.

I've grown up towing rigid dinghies (Dyers, prams) without much problem. This was coastwise, not big ocean. I suppose if you get into awful weather and can't take the dinghy on board, you could rig an extra-strong towline, and if it swamps (and you have the searoom, which is recommended), maybe you could just use her as a stern drogue? (Ha-ha but it might acutally work? Then bail her after the sun comes back out).
 
#21 ·
My personal preference is if I can get it to surf on the second stern wake. Leeward side if heeled.

In rough weather I tend to pull it up close if that will reduce the amount of water getting into it... Of course my definition of rough weather is probably rather benign compared to some passagemakers.
 
#23 ·
My personal preference is if I can get it to surf on the second stern wake. Leeward side if heeled.

In rough weather I tend to pull it up close if that will reduce the amount of water getting into it... Of course my definition of rough weather is probably rather benign compared to some passagemakers.
Let the dinghy "surf on the second stern wake?" :eek What kind of wake do you guys have? Are we talking sailboats or cigarette boats? My boat leaves barely any wake, and surely not two or more.

What am I missing here?
 
#22 ·
Just reminded myself of an unofficial race I was having with another boat from the Vineyard to Nantucket. They were moving along, off Chappaquiddick, when I was just raising sail. I think they believe I was challenging them, as I cut in front to fill my sail. Close, but not unsafely close. We each traded positions for the coming hours.

We were both towing our dinghies. My wife tells this story accurately. She claims, if I hadn't been winning at the end, I would have cut the dinghy free. :)

So it doesn't matter how you tow it, only that you win.
 
#28 ·
All the comments should be qualified by the type of dinghy: hard or soft bottom inflatable, RIB, with or without motor. What will work with a RIB may not work with a hard dinghy or a soft bottom inflatable. Having towed all of those types I feel the RIB's are by far the most stable with or without the motor. Always have towed, never on deck. Use two painters when offshore to any degree. Allows presise adjustments to find that sweet spot mentioned earlier, not just distance from the boat but also port to starboard to keep in the best spot of the boats wake.
 
#30 ·
When towing a dinghy what distance should you have between the stern and the dinghy? Does it depend on LWL and wake etc?
If you want the least amount of drag, it varies - all the time. We always tow so the painter is the last line - after sheets - we trim for speed.

Our dinghy was designed with towing in mind and can be trimmed to very little drag, even in light air. Usually, it likes to just crest the stern wave until the bow lowers and the dinghy is on it's lines. Then it's a feather in drag.

Experiment with yours at different speeds. Distance will make a huge difference in your dinghy's drag no matter what you tow.

In my observation, nearly 100% of boats along the coast tow their dinghy's. Some are easier to trim than others and most of the time the drag isn't too important. Some dinghy's are towed at tremendous drag angles but it could be because the dinghy is safer that way.

They're all different, dinghy's, in every aspect.