Most people install clutches on the deck - that's what they are designed for. You can't put a turning block at the base of the mast and mount the clutch elsewhere??

In any case: The best thing to do is either bolt right through the mast or drill and tap holes in the mast depending upon the load the clutch will have to carry (you didn't say and I won't ask... )

Don't try to rivet it for two reasons:
1. It won't be possible to check for corrosion without removing the clutch (somehow).
2. If you load up the clutch too mich, it could come right off.

I hope this helps.

 

Most people install clutches on the deck - that's what they are designed for. You can't put a turning block at the base of the mast and mount the clutch elsewhere??

In any case: The best thing to do is either bolt right through the mast or drill and tap holes in the mast depending upon the load the clutch will have to carry.

Don't try to rivet it for two reasons:
1. It won't be possible to check for corrosion without removing the clutch (somehow).
2. If you load up the clutch too much, it could come right off.

+1 Minimum.....Tap holes.

 

I have clutches on my mast and they were drilled and tapped.
I will disagree with Hartley on utility of this...it allows the mast winch to be used for several different lines without losing tension on the individual lines before cleating off.

 

Drill and tap, coat screws w/ Lanacote to pevent corrosion.

 

I have six clutches on my mast, and this gives me great flexibility in handling halyards, etc. They are mounted on teak pads, and the pads are tapped into the mast.

I agree with Cam's logic. In some cases, there are arguments for bringing lines back to the cockpit...in others, it's better just to keep everything tidy and friction-free at the mast. I used to want every line going back like a Spectra-strung guitar, with loads of clutches on the cabin top, but I've come to the conclusion that working at the mast offshore, secured to a "granny bar", is not only better mechanically, but is easier and safer in the long run.

I will also add that I use the clutches for only temporary gripping until I've cleated off. Some people seem to think they are an alternative to cleating. They are not. They are merely an aid.

 

While we are on the topic of halyard clutches.

Last year when I got n my boat the old halyard clutches were shot I bought the Lewmar D2, a triple for each side of the cabin top. they have been great. However last year I bought the size 10 mm which accepts lines from 3/8" to 1/2" as my exisitng main halyard tail was 1/2" for the port side and 8 mm for starboard.
Now I wish to go to all rope halyards and want to use 5/16". I need two of the smaller clutches on the Port side and one on the starboard side.

Has anyone taken the Lewmar D2s apart and switches the innards around. I took a quick look at them and did not see an obvious way to get them apart. There must be as they were put together once. Whne I get time I will pull them off the cabin top and sort it out but I was just wonderin if anyone had taken them apart.

Also in my opinion these things are very well built and they are all I use to secure my halyards and I get a pretty decent load on them.

Gary

 

First, I wouldn't recommend the Spinlock XTS clutches. They can jam under high loads, and then you need to use a second line to relieve the pressure on them to open them.

Second, many masts are thin-wall construction, like the one on my boat, and drilling and tapping is really not recommended. You might want to contact the mast manufacturer instead. What I would do is make an aluminum mounting plate or base and then drill and tap holes for the line clutch in it... then fasten the mounting plate to the mast with stainless steel rivets. This would give you the ability to remove the line clutch easily, as well as make the connection to the mast far more secure than drilling and tapping the holes in the mast would be.

I would also recommend using TefGel or LanoCote on the SS rivets to help protect the mast from galvanic corrosion between the rivets and the mast. If the clutch base is stainless steel, I would also use a plastic sheet as a galvanic isolation washer between the clutch and the mounting plate.