Be done with it..... They were never any good anyway.. As they get old they tend to drift..... If you want a Coulomb counter there are far better products for far less money.

I would recommend replacing it with the basic inverter remote and a Balmar Smart Gauge...

This customer had the same failure a dead Link 2000R.. He got the Xantrex basic remote and he insisted on two Link Pro's so I made a custom panel......

I would still suggest the basic remote for the inverter/charger and a Balmar Smart Gauge..

 

I know I should, I am being lazy I suppose. Thinking how I could get by for now LOL

Its just not where I wanted to spend boat bucks right now arrgg

 

Update for those with interest...

Learned another lesson yesterday...traced the problem to a simple bad connection at the battery. I don't know why it when bad in just a year, perhaps I did a bad crimp on the connector. I had it stuck in my head that it was something to do the module, I should have known better and checked the power sources first. Oh well, lessons learned. The Link is working again and all is well...time to go sailing.

Thanks RC for taking the time to make some recommendations!

 

Shawn, glad to hear that. Question: what Freedom I/C do you have. Mine's a 1998 and I can control the unit I from a switch on the top of the Freedom. The charger would come on whenever I plugged in. All without a remote. That's what I did for a few years before I installed our Link 2000. Don't know if the newer Freedoms had that switch.

 

I believe I can do the same with mine...freedom 10 I/c. It's usually something simple and should have known that...duh.

 

Shawn, don't know if you've ever seen this:

For everyone installing a battery monitor: The "Gotcha Algorithm" thread, a "MUST READ"

Link-series Charging Algorithms -- The "Gotcha" Factor!

DEFAULTS are factory settings that are made to be modified to suit your setup.