Hi Richard! Welcome to sail net!
If the attachment were sound there wouldn't be a crack opening up and getting larger! The stringers could be warping from the weight after so many years. Don't know about your boat but I'd want to know the condition of the keel stub and if it's waterlogged and soft from age. many boats have wood "in there" Certainly the forward and aft the keel bolts are in question. Something flexible as a filler may be better then epoxy.

 

Thanks for the reply Denise,
The studs and nuts are not the easiest to get at unfortunately. In order to get a socket and extension down into the bilge means drilling a hole through the wood flooring, under which is some petty thick laminate so it's not a job I relish.
Nevertheless, if it has to be done then so be it.
The idea of a flexible filler appeals and depending on what I see when the boats lifts in a couple of weeks time. Probably Sikaflex will do the job.
Anyway, thanks for your input.

Richard.

 

The other issue is a rig that is too tight - this will bend the boat a bit in some cases if the boat is not longitudinally strong enough to counteract it. In any case it has to be investigated I think.

 

Rich,
I have an 1978 S&S 34. Bought about two years ago. When purchased had boat hauled and surveyed. Survey found a keel crack similar to what you have. I have about 10, 3/4 inch SS bolts holding the keel. The bolts are offset from center line about 5 inches (This is much stronger than the bolts in a line straight down center line). The bolts from survey were found fine (surveyor used the sound test- while not perfect, a good indicator in the hands of a skilled surveyor. Survey suggested I grind out the crack and reglass, Suveryor was not concerned about cracks as his experience was it was a non-structural flexing crack. Experience glass shop said they had done similar repairs on other boats. Note the boat had just finished a circumnavigation. I had repair done and after two years of heavy sailing no more cracks.

I would have a surveyor look at you bolts and keel. If you bolts are offset from center line and are in good condition from just visual and you bilge is not leaking, and when you pull the boat you do not have many days of water leaking from the crack, I would just glass it over. Before glassing over it I ground out and flushed the crack with freshwater and blew dry with compressed air.

I have looked further into this since my repair and found you could create a lot more problems by pulling the keel, or at the minimum, spend a lot of money not really solving anything. I dive my boat regularly and keep an eye on it, so far so good.

FYI, my keel is 5,000 lbs solid lead with the keel bolts attched by nuts in "windows" in the keel. The solid lead bolts direct to the solid glass boat hull.

Have you had a hard grounding since last inspection?
Good Luck

 

Check out these threads- I think you'll find your answer:
Scanmar 35 - Yachting and Boating World Forums

but check out page 3 of this:
http://www.docstoc.com/docs/17952123/Segling-Scanmar-article-translated
Regards

 

Nice finds, Casey!

 

Thanks,
Apparently there is a Scanmar Owners Associatioin that would have more information, but the links in my previous post will not go there. Seems to be a problem with the site. I would think the Association site would have some good info if you can get into it.

OP- I do not quite follow the problem with the bridging keel sleepers as described in the links, could you post a pic of what your keel bolt area in the blilge looks like?

I like your boat, was actually looking at one before my purchase (one problem the closest Scanmar 33 to my area was 7,000 miles away).

 

Thanks to everybody so far, especially Casey 1999 with the links.
Re the Scanmar33 in general, 250 were made for Europe and 250 went to the States, I did seriously think of going to San Diego from the Uk I was that serious about buying but I found one closer to home thankfully. They're very popular in the home base of Scandinavia.
I'll keep this thread updated with pictures in due course so it might help others.
Regards,
Richard.

 

Rich,
Where is your boat located?

The first download in this attachment may help, although you need to pay:
http://marinedirectory.ybw.com/repr....ybw.com/reprints/results_related.jsp?tem=ybw&id=23845&relation=sales&offset=30

 

'Tranquillity is located on the River Hamble in Hampshire south of England, UK,
a very popular sailing area ( and too expensive by far!).

Richard.

 

Thanks Casey,
In fact I did see Mr Jermain's boat when I was looking for a Scanmar 33. I travelled 200 miles and did an overnight stay in order to inspect the boat the following day. I spent no more than ten minutes on it and couldn't get away fast enough. For someone who writes boat reviews I was appauled at the condition of it and went away quite disgusted. I believe it took about two years to sell it!
I too have a some questions about bridging sleepers as the the base of the bilge is flat, Nothing stands proud that the keel is mounted to.

Richard.

 

I too have a some questions about bridging sleepers as the the base of the bilge is flat, Nothing stands proud that the keel is mounted to.

Richard.

I wonder if there was a factory design change from sleepers to what you have. Sounds like yours was either built different from early boats or a previous owner made the modification.

 

Hi Casey,
I think the model I have has had all mods done. I'll take some shots of the bilge before I delve into sorting the problem to give you an idea of what I'm dealing with so that others might understand or even gain from my experience.
Anyway, thanks for taking an interest.

Regards,
Richard.

 

Any update? I'm a fellow owner, interested to hear

 

This can be a problem on most any boat with a bolt on keel. It's usually not a real problem unless water has gotten to the bolts in the joint. Even 316 stainless will corrode to dust in that situation, the only commonly used metal that won't is bronze. And it's crazy expensive so it's rarely used.
If rusty water weeps out of the joint that means the bolts are bad, the only way to know how bad is to remove the keel. They get bad enough and the keel will fall off.
If there's no sign of water intrusion I would seal the joint with 5200 (that's what the stuff was made for, and about the only place it's the correct material) and retorque the bolts. Try to get Scanmar's torque specs, the generic ones assume your bolting steel to steel and might damage the fiberglass. 100 ft lbs should do it. A 3/4" grade 8 bolt is 350 ft lbs. I don't think I'd do that to my keel.

 

Hello Richard and All,

I have a Scanmar33, the same boat with the same problem, and I am wondering if you have an update. I plan to haul out, drop the keel, remove and inspect the bolts and threads in the keel. I am wondering what to expect. If the problem is that the keel is coming loose from the bolts is this due to the ss bolts interacting with the less noble iron keel, and will this require new holes and new bolts in the keel, either sistering new bolts or drill and tapping new threads in the same holes in the keel. The latter approach would seem easier but would mean using larger bolts. I have not ever drilled and tapped keel bolts into a cast iron keel so I will need to research that. Any thoughts?

Scott