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" Do sail fabrics also require taping? "

Yes. Sailrite included 250 yards of double sided sticky tape in the two sail kits I recently purchased. The Dacron is very slick. I don't see how one could sew together the parts with any kind of accuracy without the tape. I have stapled together parts of cushions prior to sewing.
 
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Seam-tape can gum-up the needle. However, seam-tape seems almost essential for long, internal runs, including sails. Two ways to help mitigate gumming the needle is to apply the seam-tape offset from the line of stitches or use a thread lubricator.

When hemming, in addition to staples I also use HDX 3/4 in. Mini Spring Clamps (37 cents each from Home Depot), Binder clips from an office supply store, such as 3/4” wide, 3/8” capacity, or T-Pins from Sailrite.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Is there a 'new' machine in the $300 dollar range that is ok for cruising? The intended use would be canvas (bimini, dodger, sail cover, etc.), re-doing the cushions both inside and out, & emergency sail repair (just to get to a sail loft and have it done right).

I'm of the assumption that a zig-zag feature would be just for sail repair, and not really necessary for quick 'get you home' repairs.

thx in advance!
That is a tough order! There are a great deal of machines that you can get that will do what you want (used) but the portability is where you are going to suffer a bit. For that price you are likely going to be in the range of a used NELCO, BROTHER or if you are lucky and early generation Sailrite LS. The Nelco is a better quality home machine that will do some medium duty sewing but is not necessarily designed to do the heavier canvas so results on a tri-fold seem may not be consistent. Many machines that were designed to do the heavier materials were designed to also be compact. You can get a Sailrite machine at the sailing shows for a deal which would put you in the $600 range.

Here is a sample of a NELCO machine

Restored Vintage Nelco R-400-2 Zigzag Sewing Machine - made in Japan, heavy duty - Sewing Machines & Sergers
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Discussion starter · #24 ·
Hi-thanks for doing this. I have a red sailrite machine and would like to know if I could take it to my moored boat and sew with it running off a small red honda generator, EU200i. If so that would push me over the edge in buying a small gen.
Should work fine. The Machine you describe is the LS-1 (I think) and that motor pulls 1.7 amps at 6600RPM. Even at start up I don't think it would be enough to trip the breaker on the Honda by a good 5-8 amps. You should be just fine doing that. By the way that is a nice little generator!
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Tad off subject BUT I recently purchased the Sailrite LZ1 along with a jib and main sail kits. I have to say the sewing machine is a brute. It has gone thru 8 layers of 7.4 oz dacron along with 4 layers of nylon webbing. I do believe whatever fits under the foot it will sew.
I'm just about done with the jib.
You are correct. If it fits under the foot it will go through it. Heavier needle helps the cause.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Do sail fabrics also require taping? I think the issue is that nylon/dacron tend to be very slick thus causing the feed rates being different. Any insights into this by some of the more expereinced users?
The thicker the material the better it hold shape and feeds more evenly. Double sided or "basting tape" is a good practice for novice or learning sewers. I still use double sided tape when making sail repairs because it is one less thing that I have to worry about. The other thing that you can use is one of the many attachments available the will do the folding for specific seams for you. Sailrite has a good selection of attachments. With more experience you will need less assistance. I have a couple women in the shop here that can sew very quickly with little to no aid from folders, attachments or tape.
 
So interested in a lsz-1 ..but have some questions. First, how old should I consider purchasing a used one? What changes have been made to a new one to warrant a newer model? Is the monster wheel needed? I will be making new sails and canvas accessories.

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Thanks TS, I did find out what I was looking for as far as how old should you go. Sailrite recommends 4 years as that was when the last update went out

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Just an update:

Bought an lz1 sail rite. Every blog I've read said essentially the same thing. So I caved.
Also bought the bundle accessories and the magnetic guide.

Now begins the work for the admiral :)

Although I may do some as well. Hey it's like a new toy at Xmas .
 
Has anyone used any of the other Singer machines with success? Prices range from $99 - 499 on the net.

I just broke my old mechanical Singer and need a replacement for canvas, cushions and general repairs. I am not going to do any sail making. That I am going to leave to the experts.

Can you recommend any models?
 
What broke on your mechanical Singer? Might it be cheaper/easier to fix than to replace?

I have a lower end Pfaff Hobby that works nicely on cushions and lighter weight materials. It is easier to use (threading, bobbin winding, built in thread snipper all make it faster for me to use) so I use it until I need the power of the Sailrite machine. I leave my Sailrite machine adjusted for higher tension and pressure foot tension and the Pfaff adjusted for lighter fabrics.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Has anyone used any of the other Singer machines with success? Prices range from $99 - 499 on the net.

I just broke my old mechanical Singer and need a replacement for canvas, cushions and general repairs. I am not going to do any sail making. That I am going to leave to the experts.

Can you recommend any models?
If you wanted a singer here are a couple that I saw in your area on the cheap.

The 301 and 401 machines are decent machines that are a little step up from the home machine. They can handle the thickness of the material pretty well and as are still somewhat compact. There are some other machines out there that would be good though best thing to do is see what you can find and then ask questions about specific models. Here are some CL listings.

Heavy Duty Singer 401A sewing machine with Carrying Case
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Singer CG-550C commercial sewing machine
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Hi-thanks for doing this. I have a red sailrite machine and would like to know if I could take it to my moored boat and sew with it running off a small red honda generator, EU200i. If so that would push me over the edge in buying a small gen.
At the moment, our EU200i is running the full size fridge, Christmas decoration lights, two laptops, keeps the boats batteries charged and running the Sail Rite sewing machine. All on the economy setting and it is not even picking up the revs. Been doing that for 3 weeks now day in day out.

ATB

Michael
 
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If you have room and the time to wait, sometimes a Singer 111W155 becomes available on craigslist. The 111W155 is an industrial compound walking-foot machine. My earlier post on compound walking-foot machines on this thread might be helpful.

The disadvantages include: used, likely heavily used; $500 might be about as good as you could do (I got one with a clutch motor for $325); probably not be equipped with a servo motor; no reverse.

Also, seeming lightly used Sailrite LS machines can sometimes be found for about $500 on craigslist.

Actually, trading off lack of reverse for compound-feed can be a good trade off. The most common use of reverse is back-tack to lock the stitch. Here's what old-time professional sewers did before reverse. When fabric management is not an issue, simply bury the needle, turn the fabric 180 degrees and sew over the seam to lock the stitch. Otherwise, with the needle up, raise the foot a bit, pull the fabric toward you about an inch, drop the foot and sew over the stitch to lock the stitch. Raising the foot slightly does not open the tension discs, and enough tension is retained on the needle thread that the thread does not need to be held.

Having said that, reverse is useful in other situations to help mitigate fabric management, such as sewing around a patch, especially in the middle of a large piece. Needing to turn the fabric a total of 360 degrees is a real hassle trying to get lots material under the arm. Instead, sew one side of the patch, bury the needle, turn the fabric 90 degrees counter-clockwise and sew the next side, bury the needle, turn the fabric 90 degrees clockwise and sew the third side in reverse, bury the needle, turn the material 90 degrees counter-clockwise and sew the final side.

In your search, you might also consider a Juki 562 or 563 (the 563 has a larger bobbin). The design is similar to the 111W and the quality seems just as good.
 
I just dragged an old Juki LU 563 back from Hamilton Ontario, it's built like a tank. $500, which included a new servo motor. It went through two thick pieces of leather like butter. I plan to make a winter cover with it, among other things. It's a compound feed walking foot machine, but unfortunately not very portable. Lifting it and the table took two of us.
 
A Juki 563 in good condition with a servo motor for $500 is a real deal. Here's a refurbished one for $1265.

Refurbished Juki LU-563 on Stand

Send me a PM if you'd like a good copy of the user manual and/or parts manual in pdf form.

Also, you might be interested in chapter 4, Sewing Machine Repair, of the following link that states.

"Your shop may have the Consew Model 225, the Juki LU-562, or the Singer Model 111 W 155 sewing machine. These three sewing machines are essentially identical, and all specifications and instructions are the same for all three sewing machines. For simplicity we will use the Singer 111 W 155 as a model for all three sewing machines."

The juki 562 and 563 are essentially the same except that the 563 has a large bobbin. The manual fails to mention that the Juki has reverse.

http://navybmr.com/study material2/NAVEDTRA 14217.pdf
 
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