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Suzuki 20hp overheating lesson

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13K views 23 replies 5 participants last post by  colemj  
#1 ·
Our 3yr old Suzuki 20hp has always ran brilliantly. Until it didn't. We left the boat on the hard in FL for the summer while I did some work on it and we did some visiting. The dinghy and outboard just sat in the davits the whole summer.

Upon returning to the water, the outboard immediately started overheating. These new motors are nice in telling you just what is bothering it. The error indicator lights work well, but I also have the diagnostic cable and software that lets me watch exactly what is going on while the engine is experiencing issues, as well as showing me the past 3yrs worth of engine operating details - how many hours it has run, how many times it was started, and the throttle position at each start, how much time was spent at each rpm, how much time it operated at each temperature, barometric pressure and humidity (!), and a bus-load of other detailed data. Not only that, but when it does overheat, the computer takes over and puts it in "limp home" mode, which varies the fuel injection and cylinders to reduce heating more than just throttling back - I was impressed with this.

But this was an old-fashion problem. So I started checking the usual - water pump good, but replaced anyway, thermostat good, but replaced anyway, water getting to thermostat housing, water out the pee tube, IR temp gun showed the first part of the engine in the water circuit cool, but the later part going hot quickly.

Clogged cooling passage. I tried snaking and rinsing and salt dissolvers to no avail. It was time to tear it down.

Sure enough, one of the passages was clogged shut with what looked like sand. I was expecting salt and/or aluminum corrosion products but it was mostly tan brown and grainy rather than crystals, with some obvious salt. I don't remember running it in sand, and it seems like that would have flushed out early. It still could be all salt-related because we never flush the engine. While this sounds bad, consider that the motor is in daily use year-round. This was the first layup for it.

The good news is that the insides look brand new, aside from a bit of carbon buildup on the valves. The cooling passages and exhaust passages appear to have been coated by Suzuki with some type of corrosion inhibitor (greenish colored), which speaks well of them.

So the lesson to pass on here is that maybe it does pay to flush the engine once in a while. Cruisers rarely do this because their OB's are in constant use and water is precious for many. Funny thing is that we have been carrying around a gallon of Salt-A-Way engine flush and the fitting for using it with a garden hose since 2003, but never used it. I think I will now flush the engine every couple of weeks, and definitely before laying up again.

Mark
 

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#2 ·
You said you run it daily. Is it truly daily or could there have been any time when it sat for 2 days or more?

Various species of insects lay their eggs in small holes and fill them up with a sandy substance that is cemented with their saliva. It is quite a tenacious substance. I believe they may be the creatures that first developed a polymer resin filler.

I have a Stihl 2 stroke leaf blower that worked fine for me one weekend and then suddenly would not start the next weekend. I pulled the spark plug and cleaned it it was getting moist and making a spark. I finally took it to the Stihl repair shop and the guy found a sandy, muddy,substance firmly cemented in the small exhaust outlet. He picked out it with a small sharp Dental pick like tool. Much Sandy dirt fell out on his Workshop table but he was unable to open it and get it all out. He eventually removed the exhaust aperture, which is designed to create the right amount of back pressure, and clamped it in a vice and ran a small drill bit through it. As soon as he put it back in, the leaf blower started and ran beautifully, as it had done the previous week.
 
#3 ·
Well, there may have been a few times where it didn't get used for a day or two. But it is unlikely insects could find their way into a mostly closed cooling system. They would need to get past the intake screen, through the impeller, across the closed thermostat and work their way up into some tortuous passages to do so.

I'm blaming this one on me. Although I've abused every other outboard I've owned (many) by never/rarely flushing them with no consequences, I'm going to start a minimal regimen now.

Mark
 
#10 · (Edited)
...So the lesson to pass on here is that maybe it does pay to flush the engine once in a while. Cruisers rarely do this because their OB's are in constant use and water is precious for many. Funny thing is that we have been carrying around a gallon of Salt-A-Way engine flush and the fitting for using it with a garden hose since 2003, but never used it. I think I will now flush the engine every couple of weeks, and definitely before laying up again.

Mark
That stuff sure looks like what I found in my Honda 20 carburetor:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa122/mf70/Boat/Tinboat/P1011281_zpsu4ewrwxl.jpg

That was salt from the P.O. I don't know the source.
 
#14 ·
Hi Mark. I know this is an old thread. But hoping you’ll see my reply.

i have exactly the same problem with my Suzuki 20 after a winter lay up.

Can you tell me anymore about disassembly and assembly? How much do I need to tear down?

Any thoughts on parts I need on hand to do the repair?

I’m cruising in Mediterranean now.

Thanks for any guidance!

Jeff
 
#15 ·
Hi Jeff,

Every person I know with this engine has this problem within 3yrs. It does seem to be some type of fault with the engine design, and it is widespread. I know at least 10 people with it, but Suzuki still doesn't recognize the issue. I didn't realize this until too late, and since the above, we bought another one (different boat) that is approaching year 3. Otherwise, it is a fantastic engine. The problem never reoccured for the 5yrs I owned it after, but maybe I was lucky.

To solve the problem, you need to take the cylinder head off and clean out the cooling passages. This requires a new head gasket to reassemble. Otherwise, it is just hand tools and a lot of disassembly of components to get there. Be sure to mark the timing before disassembly so you get the correct alignment when you put the belt back on.

Mark