Put in the USB. In ten years you’ll replace it. So what? It’s DC. Same with electronics, and even with some AC.

 

We're in a similar position but moving to inverter power.
The 12v USBc's at $21 are crazy expensive but the don't make - that's available to us - a 110v or 220v USB power board / multi charger.
I want about 6 or 8 usb charging ports, mainly USBc.
We need fast charging on a LOT of devices. Unplugging each different connection is a waste of time. So I want large powerboards so we can keep the charging wire plugged in.

Why don't they have it?

Mark

 

stuck in cig plugs mentality

 

I have a 6 plug USB strip at the salon table that is hard wired to it's own breaker. I is always being used for phones and tablets etc. It has been much better than the acc plug over at the nav desk

 

I've been looking at the current loads. If I'm driving USB-PD from 12V, I need to provide something like 10A of current. USB-PD might provide as much as 20V at 5A -100w. The next generation will provide as much as 240W.

If I'm trying to feed that at 12V I'll need some heavy gauge wire.

Maybe AC makes more sense. Or maybe 48V DC...

 

How about a drop in lithium power pack. I left my yacht with its conventional 12v system but upgraded capacity by adding a 168a drop in lithium power pack which includes a computer controlled super fast charger, 2400w ( 4800w start load) sine wave inverter, 12v plus usb and c outlets and 4x ac outlets. It also has an up to 100v 13amp solar controller that prioritises solar over ac charging.
EcoFlow Delta Max 2000.
Just an alternative thought about the issue of onboard power whilst cruising.🙂

 

At the risk of drifting the topic - way back in the day in the telecom industry we had this standard colloquially called 'neg-48'. Basically 48 volts DC. For anybody old enough to remember, that is why your landline telephone still worked (yes, it required wires) when the power and gas lines were all down. Enough to 'jolt you' and get you to pay attention when the ringer went off, but not enough amps to cause harm.

I do not know for sure, but it seems to me both the automotive industry and the recreational boating industry has been kind of stuck for far too long in regards to 12VDC. To me anyway, the move that happened a couple decades ago where 'fancy boats' had 24DC also screwed things up. I also think there is a valid 'consumer/dumbass' safety consideration involved in this and not necessarily all old-school inertia.

Anyway, the difference being with the old neg-48 standard and nowadays is that there was a centralized distribution system run by professionals or semi-professionals (depending which sections of your barbed wire were 'telephone' ). And tiny wires.

So yeah, amps kill. Amps require bigger wires and more expense. Volts can kill too.
Bottom line - 'lots of electrical power' can be dangerous, especially if regularly exposed to salt water and under conditions where it is not properly looked after?

So, to take a drift off to a tangent - for all of our laptops, tablets, phones, and minor devices.
@MarkofSeaLife - put up a new poll and ask folks whether they carry something like below. Because those batteries are not Lithium-Phosophate and we saw people die a few years ago in a highly publicized screw up because of lack of USCG approved vessel not appropriately following night watch?

• https://www.ntsb.gov/investigations/AccidentReports/Reports/MAR2003.pdf
• https://www.dco.uscg.mil/Portals/9/DCO Documents/5p/CG-5PC/INV/Alerts/USCGSA_0122.pdf
• <think>
• LiCell Lithium-Battery Fire Extinguishers - Professional BoatBuilder Magazine

(multiple choices are okay)
<snip>

In summary - let's just go to neg-48, it has been proven safe for over a hundred years?

 

At the risk of drifting the topic - way back in the day in the telecom industry we had this standard colloquially called 'neg-48'. Basically 48 volts DC.

Do you know of any USB-PD outlets that are powered by 48VDC?

 

$199 USB C multi board! 😱😭

Ugreen Nexode 200W USB C Desktop Charger – UGREEN

 

Plugged into what?

 

I don' think I spent $20 on the USB power strip I have that is wired to our DC main panel with a breaker

 

If only talking powering small devices how about this unit.
EcoFlow Mini.
300w sine wave inverter (600w on startup) with one ac outlet and several usb and usc outlets along with a 12v cigarette style outlet.
Accepts solar charge or from your regular 12v supply and computer controlled fast charges from ac. It prioritises solar input if connected to both.
Small, light weight, very portable and was remarkably cheap at Aus $199 on sale.
Whilst its Lithium battery is small at 210w it’s adequate for charging even my battery power tools and can also run my zero breeze portable air conditioner.
It only weighs 6.3pounds/2.85kgs.
I have been experimenting with some of this companies products for about 8 months now and have generally been very impressed both with their performance and customer support.
Their all in one lithium power banks combining computer controlled very fast charging with a sine wave inverter, solar controller and remote control usage, charging and switching via phone app has given me a detailed understanding of the power use of all my appliances and at the same time moment by moment readout of my solar panel input effectiveness. These two things combined have radically altered for the better my understanding of both my inputs and outputs.

 

Power loss's make going from DC Battery to Inverter to get AC to then convert to DC consumes more power than you get out. What I have done is buy DC Buck converters 12-32V to USB 5V, they are all over the place and can be had from anything from 4 packs @ $10 to 2 fast chargers types for $8. I have 3D printer so I made a couple of 4 pack in a box as well as making a strip of them screwed on to wood. They work well are easy to replace if they fail (I have not had one fail but I like spares). For connections I use 5.5mm barrel connectors, easy to install as panel mount female can be found on amazon wired or solder 10 sets for $6 install sets of them wherever I think I need power act like 12v 5A wall plugs. Same ones you see on things like routers and such. https://www.amazon.com/DAOKI-DC-022...r+5.5mm+x+2.1mm&qid=1674492162&s=industrial&sprefix=5.5mm,industrial,78&sr=1-41

 

I'll be wiring my boat, this year, and I've been thinking about how.

120AC,from the inverter is simple enough, by what about DC?

Do I want to run multiple voltages, or just one?

What kind of Connections? The only DC "standard" is the cigarette lighter plug, and that sucks.

USB-PD looks promising. Most everything that uses USB-C can plug into it, and it will supposedly negotiate whatever voltage is appropriate.

It's easy enough from a wiring pount-of-view, as well. There are outlets that handle all the smarts internally that just need a 12V, 7-10A supply.

I've experimented with this, and it worked fine, not only charging my tablet and phone, but running my laptop, as well.

65W PD 12V USB Outlet for Laptop

View attachment 146157

But not everything takes USB-C.

What about the rest?

These looks like solutions:

I'll be wiring my boat, this year, and I've been thinking about how.

120AC,from the inverter is simple enough, by what about DC?

Do I want to run multiple voltages, or just one?

What kind of Connections? The only DC "standard" is the cigarette lighter plug, and that sucks.

USB-PD looks promising. Most everything that uses USB-C can plug into it, and it will supposedly negotiate whatever voltage is appropriate.

It's easy enough from a wiring pount-of-view, as well. There are outlets that handle all the smarts internally that just need a 12V, 7-10A supply.

I've experimented with this, and it worked fine, not only charging my tablet and phone, but running my laptop, as well.

65W PD 12V USB Outlet for Laptop

View attachment 146157

But not everything takes USB-C.

What about the rest?

These looks like solutions:

We went through this 6 years ago.
We originally had European standard wiring in our boat.

We chose to do all 12v for lighting and refrigeration. This helps us at anchor keeping life simple. In the staterooms there is a usb outlet on the base of the lights and two at the helm to keep our endless need of electronic charged, phones tablets and speakers. We have AC outlets in each cabin and galley, these can be run while plugged into shore power, thru the Genny, or through the inverter. This has worked well for us. Additionally recommend updating all breakers, they do wer out, always better to do in the original project, the at some anchorage or in smaller foriegn countries. BTW, we did set up an Air Conditioner that will run off the inverter while we re motoring, this keeps the pilothouse under 80 when we are ay 100 degrees and 95% humidity.

 

Let there be light......battery to a bulb (or LED) what can go wrong even get some light out of a flat battery. When the inverter pops you can guarantee it will be a moonless night