That just looks like bronze with heavy verdigris from being a bit wet. Doesn't look like a problem to me - pretty normal, actually. I'm assuming it is still operating well. I don't know what that SS grub screw is for - grease fitting? Next haulout, just give it a shot of grease, and put some corrosion inhibitor on the handle nut, or replace the nut.

Mark

 

Looks fine to me.

 

None of my other seacocks have corrosion so this particular one got me worried. I guess if there'd been pink in the verdigris I would have been worried. I've got some boeshield so think I'll put some of that on after I make sure that the filter has stopped leaking. Thanks!

 

The valve body looks normal, but the nut holding the handle on looks rough. Can’t see what the shaft looks like. They may be your weakest link. Looks like a stainless set screw in a bronze valve. Prob not awesome either. Was this factory?

 

No, I believe that this was not a factory through-hull, although it was done by the Jeanneau team when commissioning the boat. I didn't like the dual AC/DC watermaker offerred by Jeanneau and chose a Spectra instead. So most likely the through-hull and attached strainer were sourced in Annapolis and are a different manufacturer than the standard Jeanneau equipment.

 

Is it bonded/grounded? See no wire coming out. Wouldn’t blame the spectra. Assume that’s the brine discharge but even if it’s the intake the hoses electrically isolate it from the unit. With prior boats have had issues with head discharge through hulls but not through hulls transporting just salt water. Would also do the toilet paper trick. Wrap it and see if the outside is getting wet.

 

Not being factory could be a plus. The thru hulls on my ‘04 are not good. I’ve replaced all below the waterline and still have a dozen at the waterline to go. Perhaps by the time they made the 57, they were using marelon for factory systems.

If Ken did the install at J Annapolis, I always thought he was pretty good. Not a fan of the dealership down there, but that’s very dated and may have changed hands by now. I’m sure you realize that Jeanneau USA (the US mothership, not the local dealer) is based there too. If not, I can send you Gilles contact info. He’s terrific.

Anyway, I’d clean it up well (including removing the handle and cleaning/inspecting the shaft/nut) and keep a close eye on it. If you really wanted to get adventuresome, you could pound a dowel in from the outside, remove the hose and take a look at the valve. Of course, Newport harbor is maybe low 60s right now. I’d pass.

All the best getting underway again. We’re out cruising or I’d offer whatever local assistance I could.

 

I think that the corrosion might not warrant replacing the through-hull when "Zanshin" gets hauled, but I'll throw the picture out here for comment:

The valve body looks normal, but the nut holding the handle on looks rough. Can't see what the shaft looks like. They may be your weakest link.

That looks like the same ball valve manufacturer and type that I had installed on my boat in 2004 (also in Annapolis). I had four of those 3/4" dia. seacocks installed at that time (engine intake, head intake, and sink drain and life raft compartment drain) and three of the four have failed and have been replaced. Two failed when the shaft no longer turns the ball. In both cases it felt like the ball was closing normally but when the hose was removed for winterizing it turned out that the ball was not closing or opening when the handle was being turned. In the third the shaft snapped off at the handle.

Looking at the photos, as Minnewaska rightly noted, it looks like the green on the valve body is surface corrosion and of no real consequence, but that the corrosion on the on the shaft could be more serious based on my experience with these valves.

That just looks like bronze with heavy verdigris from being a bit wet. Doesn't look like a problem to me - pretty normal, actually. I'm assuming it is still operating well. I don't know what that SS grub screw is for - grease fitting? Next haulout, just give it a shot of grease, and put some corrosion inhibitor on the handle nut, or replace the nut.

Mark

The small stainless steel set screw prevents the handle from turning more than 90 degrees. The handles are reversible. in order to reverse the rotation of the handle the setscrew is moved to an identical tapped and threaded hole on the opposite side of that face of the fitting.

Jeff

 

We had several old through-hulls replaced at a highly-respected boat yard. A month after launching, we noticed one of the brand new through-hulls was corroding at an alarming rate. It turned out that they used a steel threaded nipple to attach the bronze hose fitting to the bronze seacock. Initially, we thought it was just a case of dissimilar metals. But then I touched a magnet to it. They used a mild steel househould plumbing fixture in a through-hull assembly! When I contacted the yard manager, his response was underwhelming. No apology; he just asked "Do you feel comfortable replacing the part yourself?" That angered us even more than the initial mistake. So we made them send a technician to us to replace the part (only about an hour's drive away).

These photos were taken about 6 weeks after the boat had gone back into the water.

Sometimes, even when you take the prudent course of action, it can backfire on you.

 

That is just surface corrosion. It's nothing a wire brush wont clean up. If the salt water leak is taken care of it shouldn't continue to corrode, but you can always give it a coat of paint or clear coat to protect it.

As for the nut, take it off, remove the handle and inspect the shaft, then replace the nut with stainless or bronze.

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The green corrosion is nothing to worry about. I replaced most of my thruhulls and valves only because they were decades old, not just because some of them had a green patina. After I got them all cut up and out of the boat, that is when I could see they really weren’t that bad and could have lasted years more. But nice to have one thing not to worry about. 4 years later, similar to Jeff_ H, I turned one handle to shut the valve and it snapped off in my hand. Never, on any other valve, had that happened, no matter how old they were. This broken valve was the only Chinese valve in the bunch that I had installed. The Chinese stainless shaft and shutoff are junk. Yes Damon Gannon, it can backfire on you.

 

The green corrosion is nothing to worry about. I replaced most of my thruhulls and valves only because they were decades old, not just because some of them had a green patina. After I got them all cut up and out of the boat, that is when I could see they really weren't that bad and could have lasted years more. But nice to have one thing not to worry about. 4 years later, similar to Jeff_ H, I turned one handle to shut the valve and it snapped off in my hand. Never, on any other valve, had that happened, no matter how old they were. This broken valve was the only Chinese valve in the bunch that I had installed. The Chinese stainless shaft and shutoff are junk. Yes Damon Gannon, it can backfire on you.

I also have had the stem break in one of these bronze bodied copies of a Groco bronze ballcock valve. the stem on mine appears to have been yellow brass. Althpugh the Groco is made of better stuff I have doubts on the real composition of their stem as well....it is Not Bronze !

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