Lots of tractor parts are available for that engine (the non marinized parts) at deep discounts to the cost of marine engine parts (sometimes as much as 90% off). If you buy the boat, PM me and I will email you a spreadsheet with crossover parts numbers I have put together. There are some issues with decreasing parts availability (search for M-30 and heat exchanger for an example) but they don't seem too bad. 2500 hours doesn't have to be "HIGH" if the engine was well maintained it may have tons of life left. Frankly, the Hurth transmissions seem to be the biggest source of complaints I have noticed (I have had no such probs myself -- KoW). Look for smoke, it should probably run @2800-3000RPM at the top end. Cost to replace has more to do with the set up of your stringers, motor mount, etc. New Kubota is probably under $8K to purchase . . . with basic install maybe $12-15K -- installed with bells and whistles probably run you as much as $20-22K.

Good Luck!

 

Lots of tractor parts are available for that engine (the non marinized parts) at deep discounts to the cost of marine engine parts (sometimes as much as 90% off). If you buy the boat, PM me and I will email you a spreadsheet with crossover parts numbers I have put together. There are some issues with decreasing parts availability (search for M-30 and heat exchanger for an example) but they don't seem too bad. 2500 hours doesn't have to be "HIGH" if the engine was well maintained it may have tons of life left. Frankly, the Hurth transmissions seem to be the biggest source of complaints I have noticed (I have had no such probs myself -- KoW). Look for smoke, it should probably run @2800-3000RPM at the top end. Cost to replace has more to do with the set up of your stringers, motor mount, etc. New Kubota is probably under $8K to purchase . . . with basic install maybe $12-15K -- installed with bells and whistles probably run you as much as $20-22K.

Good Luck!

Hey there ---- a bit of a bump. I'm going to drop you a PM about that parts list.

My old Tartan34-2 has the M-30

 

FYI... don't expect any surveyor to give you any kind of useful info on the state of the engine. A separate mechanical inspection would be required as well. Same goes for the state of the rigging, esp above deck level. Most surveyors will remark on visual indicators only.

 

The 5424 was one of the original Universal diesels. Since the boat is a 1981, I suspect its the original engine. As has been noted they are marinized Kubota diesels. Parts are available from Universal dealers (pricy!) or Kubota dealers if you know their engine or tractor model number. If its been well maintained, it should be good for a number of more years of service.

 

Generally, it's a very good engine. Tough and long lasting, but a bit noisy and vibratory. It should have ample power for that Pearson.

Transmissions are available, rebuilt, or you can put in a ZF.

So far on my 5424, the Sherwood raw water pump has been lasting for 2 years / 200 hrs before the shaft seals fail. Watch for corrosion on the block under the pump, which indicates a leak. A slight leak is not too disastrous for a short while, until the corrosion blocks the hole in the pump that allows water to escape, then it starts getting forced into the engine oil!

You can get the parts to rebuild the Sherwood, or replace with an Oberdorfer. The Sherwood is nudging $400 for a replacement, the Oberdorfer around $200 right now. I've installed an Oberdorfer, and hoping for longer life. I also rebuilt the Sherwood to use as a spare.

The manual says to change the transmission oil every 100 hours, and it needs it. There isn't much oil quantity and it's under some heat stress.

Heat exchangers are easily available.

The main issue seems to be the exhaust manifold, hard to find.

All the engine parts common to the Kubota block are easily available. Just bought a starter motor for $80.

 

PS, I use Wix filters from a truck parts store.

 

I too have a 5424, that I new nothing about. HAD I known what I know now... maybe I would have...?

Other than the starter, alternator and filters, nost everything else is no longer available. No fuel pumps (not the electric ones), manifolds, instrument panels. OK, I will get arguments about Kabota tractor engine parts... but really? My boat is at a marina surounded by marine fixem shops, but I have to try and mail order parts from all over the country? Your hours are not an issue if everything is in good order. I've got 3359 and runs like a kitten. I resolved that when she goes... bite the bullet and repower. Mine was in excellent condition so I went with it.

Dave

 

The instrument panel isn't available, but one is from Catalina Direct for a Cat with the same engine. You'd just have to be a bit cunning with the wiring.

See here :

Catalina Direct: Electrical

You can replace the instruments with generic ones. I've replaced several, installed a quartz hour meter because the one in the rev counter broke, and replaced the ignition switch.

If your panel needed replacing though, I would use a CAD program to design a panel, have it made, and use generic instruments.

The electric pump is just a lift pump and any low pressure diesel pump should work. Catalina Direct have the correct one, though. For $237.

 

That is not a lot of hours at all. The motor, if well maintained should be good for close to 10,000 hours. This is a sturdy little tractor motor. If really concerned have a mechanic look it over, or an engine oil analysis. Parts are quite available with some creativity with a few exceptions. Now if it has not been maintained well, then that it could be near the end. I would take one over a Volvo any day!

 

Lots of tractor parts are available for that engine (the non marinized parts) at deep discounts to the cost of marine engine parts (sometimes as much as 90% off). If you buy the boat, PM me and I will email you a spreadsheet with crossover parts numbers I have put together. There are some issues with decreasing parts availability (search for M-30 and heat exchanger for an example) but they don't seem too bad. 2500 hours doesn't have to be "HIGH" if the engine was well maintained it may have tons of life left. Frankly, the Hurth transmissions seem to be the biggest source of complaints I have noticed (I have had no such probs myself -- KoW). Look for smoke, it should probably run @2800-3000RPM at the top end. Cost to replace has more to do with the set up of your stringers, motor mount, etc. New Kubota is probably under $8K to purchase . . . with basic install maybe $12-15K -- installed with bells and whistles probably run you as much as $20-22K.

blowinstink,
Could you email the spreadsheet for the 5424. I am looking for some cooling system gaskets that I cannot find through the marine stores.
SailCt

 

Gee, for a 33 year old boat, 2,440 hours doesn't seem very high...maybe even a little light? 2440/33=75 hours per year, huh? Check to make sure the hourmeter is actually working. Realistically at that age the kind of use it's received is probably way more important than the number of hours...how does it look? Original or sixth owner? Decent engine maintenance logs or none? I have a 5444 with over 3,000 hours, and just finished redoing the cylinder head, replacing the "water flange" that the thermostat sits in, overhauling the heat exchanger, and replacing the gauges in my instrument panel.

I think the Kubota's are good little engines, and the Universal marinization bits seem okay too. That said, you have to be ready to do a little detective work figuring out the Universal/Kubota parts cross reference - search Google for "Kubota parts" and you'll get a bunch of hits (Kumar Brothers sells a lot of aftermarket stuff). Shops & mechanics used to working on Yanmars, Perkins and Volvos may not be enthusiastic to work on it, but they are pretty simple engines. How much of a DIY'er are you? I replaced three gauges in my panel with nice new Teleflex gauges that are nicer than the originals for $160, and it took maybe a day all told, including changing a bit of wiring.

One thing I learned is that compression and leakdown tests can tell you a lot. OTOH, my understanding is that the real value of oil analysis is tracking changes, so a one time test isn't all that informative. SOME of the marinization parts on these engines are getting pretty scarce (like exhaust manifolds), and even finding these parts used can be tough, but I think most things could be MacGyvered. Good luck!

 

On the subject of gauges, it is de rigueur to bypass the ammeter in the instrument panel, as the Universal wiring is unable to safely carry the alternator charging current. This makes the ammeter rather useless.

I replaced mine with a voltmeter - much more useful

 

Sir, me kindly requesting spreadsheet for parts conversion for my Universal 5424 24 hp diesel.
e-mail is igor130@hotmail.com.
Much appreciated

 

I hope that is not a lot of hours...I'm a week away from buying a '80 Cal 31 with 5424 that was installed as a rebuilt engine in 1999. 4700 hours on the meter and I'm hoping that included the original motor.

 

kubota engines are top. Issues with modern EPA requirements will block getting parts from the tractor dealerships. Can't even get an injector anymore from them. Fresh news from my Kubota Tractor dealer and parts supplier. They said for every tractor replacement engine they have to prove to the EPA and Kubota the old engine is destroyed. Parts are just as hard to prove use.

That said, there is an easy out. I just had this discussion today to replace my M5424. The M5424 is either the 922 or 905 block. (25 hp)

$25,000 fully installed by a top flight marine shop in Michigan, brand new Universal motor and transmission and all new goodies. They told me Universal won't allow a DoItYourself install.

$12,000 do it yourself replacement with the Beta Engine (Kubota Marinized by Beta), very nice unit.

Buy a full replacement long block from Kubota Industrial engines. $3700, approx.

order your replacement parts from the Industrial Engines dealers as well.

So, i'm going strip the old motor of the manifolds, heat exchangers, pumps, etc. then marinize an off the shelf brand new Kubota. And put in a thrust bearing and CV joint system, mounting the motor and the trans level, cutting down the stringers.

 

EPA requirements will block getting parts from the tractor dealerships. Can't even get an injector anymore from them. Fresh news from my Kubota Tractor dealer and parts supplier. They said for every tractor replacement engine they have to prove to the EPA and Kubota the old engine is destroyed. Parts are just as hard to prove use.
SAY WHAT???

 

I use Wix filters from a truck parts store.

 

What's the oil and fuel filter equivalent?

thanks

 

The Wix equivalent of Universal 299381 is 51348. This fits the 5424 and quite a few others.

The fuel filter is 33390.

I usually buy a few at once, online, but if you need one quickly, O Reilly auto parts has them - not on display, you have to ask.

 

Thanks!

 

Blowinstink - could you kindly email your sheet of info on the Universal/Kubota equivalence if available? Sijulien007@gmail.com.
I am currently seeking injector nozzles for my Cape Dory 33 now in Antigua - I am at home in UK!
Simon

 

The FIRST hit on a search of SailNet on "Universal Kubota Injector" yields this fantastic post by a modest and truly brilliant SailNetter; http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel/151418-universal-m25-fuel-injector-replacement.html

 

Eherlihy
That is brilliant. Thank you. Not sure why my search failed to get the link - not quite the right words?!
So, it seems the M25 and M30 use the same injector nozzles which I believe from other posts are Nippon Denso 093500-1560

 

Actually I think all the smaller Kubota's use the same nozzles. The manuals show a different part number for each model but when you look those up you get "has been replaced by" the same number. I bought a pair on eBay for $40 each and now she runs great. Any shop selling Kubota parts will have them. BTW they were $401 each from Universal.

 

Thanks Capt jgwinks - it is helpful to get your confirmation re commonality of nozzles.

 

Sorry, I have been out of commission for a bit. Let me see if I can make the spreadsheet public and turn on comments so that people can A) see it without asking me all the time and B) suggest changes so that it becomes even more useful . . .

Matt

 

Try this . . .

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1_oYnlq10QZNb0QATXfaGX2t6UD_362i-DJ2pai-xjf0/edit?usp=sharing

 

Get the raw water pump from Depco Pump in Clearwater, and save about $40.

The stock alternator is a Motorola 51 amp. There is a 90 amp Leece-Nevill alternator available from Spider Marine which is an exact replacement. Cost is less than $200 with the internal (8MR) regulator.

The Oil Pressure Sender (for the gauge) is a Sierra OP24301. $30 from West Marine.
Sender resistance can be measured to determine the sender's correct operation. Remove wire to gauge. Connect an ohmmeter to terminal of sender and to engine block. Approximate pressure sender resistance values are:
Zero pressure = 240 ohms
1/2 gauge reading = 103 ohms
full gauge pressure = 33 ohms.
If sender is shorted (0 ohms) gauge will read above full gauge pressure reading.

 

Anyone had any luck getting hold of an injector pump for the M30? My extra difficulty is that the boat is in Antigua, I am in UK and spares are best obtained in USA!