I'm always impressed by the engineering I see in these tarp threads. But every year I see ripped tarps flapping in the boatyard. Their sound is as much a part of winter as slapping halyards and wind through the rigging.

My boat came with a Fairclough winter cover (thanks to the original owner). It does a good job of protecting the boat and it's held up incredibly well -- it's now 18 years old and is showing no signs of failing.

They're not cheap, but they're a good investment and good quality covers aren't prone to failure. Mine goes on in less than an hour with two people and is fitted to the boat.

Just my 2 cents.

 

I live onboard in Norway and made somewhat of a thermal blanket on a frame.

I have a tarp slightly longer than my 29ft boat and split it from the mast to the bow to wrap the mast and then sewed it up strong to the bow. I have 6 sections of 1/2 foam mat insulation (4ft X 12ft) and laid that on top. lastly, I put on my pvc boat cover and secured it as usual with line and water jugs from a gas station. I regulate the end openings for draft. It`s strong and works like a charm.

Something new to think about if you either live onboard or work on your boat during the winter months.

 

Harbor Freight has cute little dealies for tying tarps. Sorta an extended, egg-like circle of plastic with a "button" hat fits/snaps inside, once pushed thu from the back of the tarp. I use 'em for tie-downs and to lace-up and close entry.
'Bout a buck apiece or less...cheap attachment and insurance that a tarp will hold where ya put it!

 

DeltaTen, I looked at those yesterday when I was in the store. I was afraid the "female" part would poke into the tarp. Did you use them and did they damage the tarp at all?

 

I have gotten very good service on my 28 footer with a home-built electrical conduit frame and Kover Klamps. Kover Klamps secure the intersection of the conduit no matter what the joining angle may be.

The original making of the conduit frame took two of us perhaps 5-6 hours... mostly trial-and-error piece-by-piece bending and fitting (the Kover Klamp directions were decent). Then I made another dozen of so wood-slats-joined-by-rope that I sling over the ridgepole to create more ribs for snow support (I am in New Hampshire). The outboard slat-rib ends are secured taut to the port and starboard longitudinals with zip ties. I cover all hard-points with cheap cut-up carpet squares secured by zip ties.

This worked brilliantly for almost 3 full years with one silver 30x15 heavy-duty tarp while I did a full refit. This past summer I launched and it took me maybe 90 minutes to break-down the frame (all pieces marked for easy re-assembly). This fall, I re-assembled the frame alone and it took 4 hours... if I had a helper it would have been more like 90 minutes.

I've been very pleased with the whole setup... it is very sturdy and easily disassembled and reassembled. I did put on a new $65 silver tarp on it... based on prior experience, I expect certainly 2 and maybe 3 winters from each tarp.

PS: Zip ties may be next to duct tape in the list of God's gifts to the do-it-yourselfer.

 

@ Jimgo

No, I do not tarp my boat, sounds like allot of work. Those SS straps, I would not use for tarping. I seem to be having an issue with posting to the incorrect thread, that was meant for the Anchor rode bag storage on stanchion. Sorry. But for the $3.50 they are great to have handy. And the ones that are stocked at Walmart are only the 6" ones, online they sell a 11" ones. If used through grommets, there should be no issues using them for tarping.

If you want a mans sized plastic tie tap, go to you local HVAC supply store. They make them in up to 48" long.

 

Those silver tarps are definitely more durable than the cheap blue ones, but I would usually get at least three years out of each blue one, sometime more. The key is avoiding chafe, but I also contend that our success came from allowing the whole shelter to flex with the wind. This allows the tarp to shed snow, and deflect shredding wind gusts. Conduit does this well, but moving to a rope spine (the vertical posts) was another key change.

I'm a bit amused by those who say tarping your own boat is a difficult task. On the scale of boat DIY projects, this has to be one of the easier ones.

 

The 2013 Seafever plenty of room to work on the boat in complete comfort addition

 

Since I trailer my Catalina 22 and the mast is down I use three 12 x 12 tarps with grommets tied together and covered these with a 20 x 30 tarp that after I tie down I run 4 ratchet straps around bottom of boat to snug the tarp and stop wind flap.

 

Some good ideas on tarps. On some past boats I have shrinkwrapped them and used a wooden frame set up. Worked quite well but took 1-2 days to construct and shrink. My current boat is a 29 footer stored with the mast off the boat. It has an Awlgrip hull which precludes me from using any cover that touches the hull. My solution is cheap and effective. This really only works if you have a slotted toe rail. I get a heavy duty plastic tarp about 9'6" x 12 foot from Harbor Freight. I then buy their 40 shock cord deal for another $12. I position the tarp just aft of the forward hatch and it extends over the companionway. I secure all the grommets to the toe rail with shock cords drawn reasonably tight. I then go from rail to rail forming a couple of x patterns that cover the whole cabin top. This prevents the tarp from flapping but there is still a little give. I position a couple scrap pieces of 6x6s on the forward edge to keep the tarp from lifting.

I can enter and exit the boat in the winter through the forward hatch which is watertight.

Bottom line is that I have at the most $ 25 invested and it keeps any water from getting into the cabin.

 

No damage, Jim...just sometimes tough ta get 'em ta go together. There's a trick to it that I haven''t master'd yet My boat buddy's been using them for years and years. Seem ta hold up and HOLD well.

HTH

 

bite the bullet and get a custom cover. It would be a plus if you sell. The big problem is when water gets under fittings and then freezes breaking the seal and allowing water into the deck.

 

After years Of beating up my boat with tarps I use shrink wrap. My installer agrees with Mainesail( pitch, pitch, pitch) . Most damage I have seen in Maine is caused when covers don't shed the snow.the other benefit of white shrink wrap is that my solar chargers keep the batteries topped up.

 

Just finished tarping for this winter. Some of you guys way overthink this. The guy next to me (to the left in the photo) had some complicated homemade pvc/2x4 system he was erecting. Appeared that he and his wife had been there for a few hours before I got there, and were nowhere near putting the tarps on before I left. For this year, about 2 hours and $8 for some additional line for tie downs. I'm in northern New England with big snows and winter storms.

 

Just finished tarping for this winter. Some of you guys way overthink this. The guy next to me (to the left in the photo) had some complicated homemade pvc/2x4 system he was erecting. Appeared that he and his wife had been there for a few hours before I got there, and were nowhere near putting the tarps on before I left. For this year, about 2 hours and $8 for some additional line for tie downs. I'm in northern New England with big snows and winter storms.

Hey, caberg, if it works for you, then who is anyone to say otherwise. It certainly wouldn't work for our winter, where we lots of snow and nasty winter storms (high winds). If your boat was up here that tarp would quickly chafe through at the stanchions, the grommets would rip out, and you'd end up with first a pile of snow in the collapsed tarp. This would turn to a large glob of ice, risking the stability of your boat on it's cradle, let alone the possible damage the ice might cause.

The point of covering the boat is two-fold. You want to keep snow off to avoid weight loading on the boat, especially in the cockpit, but possibly also on the deck (although that's less on an issue). But the major issue is to protect against freeze-thaw problems. Snow-covered decks will promote water intrusion. Cored decks that have thru-fittings will be at risk in freeze-thaw situations, and if (and when) you have water intrusion, then freeze-thaw cycles will start to cause real damage.

 

I know this will be Greek to a lot of you, but I found the best price and the heaviest custom made tarp at a place that makes "liners for outside hockey rinks".

Hey - it works for me!

Rik

 

If you throw a tarp around your mast and over your lifelines, you are taking a risk if you are in a snow zone. My neighbor's boat was covered in this fashion last winter and had several stanchions pulled inward and punch through the deck as a result of an unusually heavy, wet snowfall last February.

My boat has a professionally designed frame that distributes a snow load via longitudinal stringers supported by bows that go outside the lifelines. It has a ridgepole that is a few feet higher than my boom, thereby providing a steeper slope than a "boom tent". I had no problems in the blizzard of '13, but remember getting under the cover and pushing what must have been a tone of wet snow off the cover.

My understanding is that some folks in Maine using furring strips along the lifelines that are connected via athwart lumber to keep them from collapsing inward under load. You may be in an area where the snow is drier--and therefore lighter--than some of the wet snow we get along the coast. Local knowledge may be your best guide.

 

For my Islander 28, I can fit the entire cover, frame and everything in the trunk of my 1999 Saab 93. Tired of ridge poles and frames. last year I changed things. I mount the spreaders from my mast against 2' pieces of 6x6 sitting on pieces of 2x8. I use pipe clamps. The two mounted spreaders are located at either end of the boat. In the bow the 6x6 sits just aft of the anchor locker. The stern spreader sits on top of the cockpit coaming. I have a very strong and secure pad eye at the stern for the back stay adjuster. At the mast step I have a third (middle) upright. It is a piece of 2' aluminum pipe, attached to a 6x6 like the spreaders, with a pvc T fitting on its top end. I run a piece of 1/4" Amsteel from the bow chain plate, over the end of the bow spreader, through the pvc T on the middle support, down over the end of the stern spreader, through the pad eye, to a winch. I tied all three support posts to the toe rails to give them lateral stability. I tighten up the Amsteel and drag my tarp over the ridge line. I "tie" every grommet with shock cord running under the hull and fold the tarp at the stern so it can be opened. The height of the middle support is important. It should be high for a steep pitch. It worked great. I use a white tarp.

Down

 

Do you need to completely enclose your boat with tarp??

I covered the entire boat a few time with a tarp, on a 20 ft boat it is not that difficult, but not anymore.

The deck has been exposed to wind, sun and spray for at least 6 months, 6 months of wind, snow and ice is not going to make much difference. Just remove whatever items you think may not do well under winter conditions, tarp over the cockpit to reduce the possibility of freeze-thaw-freeze-thaw-freeze from clogging the cockpit drains.

The deck will need to be cleaned in the spring with or without a cover.

 

Do you need to completely enclose your boat with tarp??

No! I use the bow pulpit to form a scoop that allows air to blow under the cover. I keep an opening at the stern, too. With a high pitch and air having access to both surfaces, enough rippling movement keeps the snow off even here in coastal Maine. My tarps last for years. Their failure is from UV exposure. Using only shock cord at every grommet is very important. Having things give a little is essential. Using shock cord that I run under the hull works well. I use 4 long pieces that get "laced" through opposing grommets. This allows the tension to balance itself. It would never allow loads to bend stanchions! Really??

I buy 1/4" shock cord on a bulk spool. It is a fraction of the cost by the foot. I also "discovered" a small plastic hook that lobster fishermen use. It fits into grommets on the hook end and the 1/4" shock cord compression fits onto the slot at the other end. No knots required and simple adjustment.

My tarps are normal hd white poly tarps. One will last 3 to 4 seasons. They cost less than $100.00 for a 20 x 40. It is the best looking cover in the yard.

Yup it gets dirty under the tarp. Spring cleaning required.

We plan to be un stepping our mast on deck next year. I want to store it there and use it as our ridge pole. One observation I have made about this option is storing it up high off the deck. Windage might be a consideration at some point. We do have three boat stands per side and the windage shouldn't be as strong as storing with the mast up. I will enjoy designing the crutches for that. We are planning some canal cruising and would like to carry the mast as high as practical. Any suggestions?

Down

 

Sure,

Hamilton Marine.

Down

 

This is making me feel cold!

 

The best way is anyway that works well for you.

Used a silver, hay bale tarp that lasted 6 seasons ( 1 too many as silver flecks covered the boat last year ) Supported a 2x4 ridge with vertical 2x4's lashed to the mast, and forstay. Used rope from the ridge to the bow cleats, mid cleats and stern. Used a multitude of tarp rope grabbers until I found one that really worked well that actually screw through the tarp and had an eye for the rope. Tied off underneath and kept the tarp tight. Ziplocked a poly skirt to the mast at the pening to shed water / snow and used tarp tape to seal the cuts down the sides for the chainplates.
Never had any snow accumilate on the tarp and zero issues over the 6 seasons.



Finally tossed that tarp last spring and bit the bullet for a custom tarp, very similar designed as the silver tarp. Installed in half a day.

 

Here is my Harbor Freight special. Only covers cabin top and companionway. Shock cord suspension system provides some flexibility and keeps tarp from flapping. I have about $25 invested. Awlgrip hull sides so I can't have the tarp overlapping the rail. Worked great last year and we had 60" of snow for the season. The scrap 4x4s insure very little air gets underneath.

 

Having kept my boat on the shores of Lake Champlain (not this year), am familiar with the snow issues. I've always used my mast as the "ridge pole" of a long tent, supported by uprights every 5' or so. I use a 40' x 20' tarp with cutouts for hardware. It works out pretty well. A LOT of weight builds up from snow, so a mast or boom used as a support really needs to be braced up every few feet. I've found that snow will build up no matter what I do and sag it so that during thaws, ice will form in depressed spots, requiring some chipping. It's pretty much necessary to take a trip to the boat after heavy snows and shovel it off. I bring a ladder and big shovel, although a roof rake would work as well. It's good exercise during the winter too One thing to avoid is forming pockets in which water can build up. I've seen some boats with literally hundreds of gallons in a tarp-pond. Also, don't tie off tarps to Brownell stands for obvious reasons.

Another thing I do is remove the lifelines (Amsteel) and put holes in the tarp so the stanchions poke up through. This tends to keep the tarp in place and doesn't really let much leakage in.

 

WE store our Beneteau 321 in our back yard ,mast on deck and one tarp covers bow to stern and down to keel well tied also purchased a "roof rake "for removing snow.

 

shock cord hook

downeast: couldn't find that hook at hamilton, but did here:
Crab Traps & Supplies - Bag of 50 Small Crab Pot Hooks - Quantity Discount Available
$9.45/50; looks reasonable; at 20¢ each I'll expand my use of shock cord.

question: is the hook opening large enough to fit in the toe rail slots?

I'll add to the discussion when I can take some photos later this week.

 

Re: shock cord hook

downeast: couldn't find that hook at hamilton, but did here:
Crab Traps & Supplies - Bag of 50 Small Crab Pot Hooks - Quantity Discount Available
$9.45/50; looks reasonable; at 20¢ each I'll expand my use of shock cord.

question: is the hook opening large enough to fit in the toe rail slots?

I'll add to the discussion when I can take some photos later this week.

HM probably doesn't list them in their catalog. There is a fishing gear section in the Southwest Harbor store that carries supplies for commercial fishermen.

Yes they do fit the openings in the aluminum toe rail on our Islander-28. They are a little tight and it is the only place I have managed to break one forcing it in on a cold day. Simply wrapping the shock cord around something and hooking it on itself works everywhere there isn't a grommet. I have purchase a bag of ? 50? and that was several years ago. I use them with 1/4" shock cord on our other boats and as camping ties, too. Great little hooks and very inexpensive. No steel hook to damage a surface. No more bungees unless the application calls for a large S hook or a more powerful elastic.

Down