You want to insure that the fuel filters are in place and new. I say filters because there is the primary which is more than likely mounted on a bulkhead and the second is located on the engine. Once you are sure the filters are in place there is a lever on the fuel pump that will allow you to manually pump fuel from the tank to the injectors. You might want to search YouTube for the procedure and location of the filter and pump I've mentioned. This might be a good time to consider replacing the fuel lines if they are crazed.

 

Hello Skipper Jer! Thank you so much for the tips, I truly hope I do not have to replace the fuel lines? The previous previous Owner who was the sole owner until 2018, took very very good care of this Vessel. I found his Captain's Log and Maintenance Log in addition had left a beautiful box full of OEM Yanmar parts which include both Oil and Fuel filters as well as belts and impeller. I will look for additional videos online.

 

Anniesgalaxy

The first time you do it you'll be "what the %^$#!"... this is taking forever. The next time you have to do it it'll go much smoother, especially once you figure out the feel of the manual level on the mechanical fuel pump. Just make sure you bleed the purge screws in the proper order (engine mounted fuel filter, then the injector pump, etc.). A lot of "how to bleed a 2GM20" videos don't mention the injector pump's bleed. Maybe because few routine filter maintenance occasions introduce air that far down the fuel stream. But I know who guy who looks remarkably like me who went motoring happily out of his slip and into the channel only for his engine to die. This idiot forgot to open his fuel line shutoff valve due to a broken habit pattern from some distraction. Once I, I mean this idiot, had a buddy tow him back to the slip 100 yards away, he couldn't get the engine to start even after bleeding the system by the numbers at both the engine filter and the injectors. Then I, I mean he, reread the engine maintenance manual and noted the other bleed screw at the injector pump housing. After that, fired right up...

Make sure the primary filter is is full of fuel when you screw it on and even the secondary bowl has fresh fuel in it when you start in order to help get a head start on getting fuel to move through the system.

This is something you'll have to do every year when you change out your filters. Once you get familiar, it takes only a few minutes.

Counter intuitive on the engine filter mount, but yanmar notes the lower screw is the bleed (not the one that sits higher on the boss).

DO NOT crank those screws tight with all your might. Just a good snug tight. You do not want to risk stripping the threads or snapping the head off.

Regards

Ben

 

Please tell that "Idiot" thank you and how I was entertained at his mistake but gained informative insight from his buddy named Ben!

 

Filling the primary filter is probably going to be the most challenging part. How to do that depends on make and model. My Racor has a built in pump for that.

 

I agree, I think that is the most I am concerned about. I head back to my sailboat tomorrow evening and plan to start work on Friday.

 

Welcome to Sailnet Annie and congratulations on your new boat.
Great you are doing this yourself, as basic knowledge to bleed/maintain your
engine will serve you well over the years.
Bringing diesel from tank to fuel filter then pumping then crack open bolt at top (while still pumping)
and then when fuel comes out close and move down stream to next. And repeat again.
Usually order tank, primary filter, fuel pump, secondary fuel filter (mounted on motor),
high pressure pump, then on to injectors. I turn over motor some at each injector.
Motor could start and run when doing injectors so be careful.
Takes a lot of pumping, be sure to close each tightly before moving to next.
Thinking there should be better videos out there or have a friend or advise location
and see if a fellow sailnetter is nearby to help you thru the first time.
Once done will be a very handy skill to have. very easy.
Sounds like your previous owner took very good care of boat so I would bleed before
changing anything, but keep a eye for crazing/cracking hoses.
Also when changing filters pour/top off some diesel in each as will cut down pumping.
With above I usually don't have to bleed my motor (3 GM) when changing filters.
Also if boat not used for a while remove and replace with fresh diesel, I would do if new to me boat.
Luck!
Hugo

 

Welcome to Sailnet Annie and congratulations on your new boat.
Great you are doing this yourself, as basic knowledge to bleed/maintain your
engine will serve you well over the years.
Bringing diesel from tank to fuel filter then pumping then crack open bolt at top (while still pumping)
and then when fuel comes out close and move down stream to next. And repeat again.
Usually order tank, primary filter, fuel pump, secondary fuel filter (mounted on motor),
high pressure pump, then on to injectors. I turn over motor some at each injector.
Motor could start and run when doing injectors so be careful.
Takes a lot of pumping, be sure to close each tightly before moving to next.
Thinking there should be better videos out there or have a friend or advise location
and see if a fellow sailnetter is nearby to help you thru the first time.
Once done will be a very handy skill to have. very easy.
Sounds like your previous owner took very good care of boat so I would bleed before
changing anything, but keep a eye for crazing/cracking hoses.
Also when changing filters pour/top off some diesel in each as will cut down pumping.
With above I usually don't have to bleed my motor (3 GM) when changing filters.
Also if boat not used for a while remove and replace with fresh diesel, I would do if new to me boat.
Luck!
Hugo

Hello Hugo!

Thank you for the welcome! The tank is definitely empty as it had to be removed for sealing and re-welding, the person who I purchased the Sailboat from never put gas back in it and or bleed the lines to re-start it. Problem is I do not know how long ago was the tank replaced and has been sitting without any diesel in it? I hope I do find someone close, sailboat is currently in a shotty resort slip and with how crazy Clearwater Beach is now days I am just wanting to start the engine and get my sailboat the heck out of there. Clearwater Beach is no long the beautiful beach I once remembered from a kid or let alone from 4 years ago. It's party central for drunken college kids and cheap tourists, It takes me an hour to go over the causeway and an hour out if I have to go to the Marine store. Heck EMS and Cops have hard time getting in and out. It sucks. I just want to start my baby and get hear in a place where I can continue to care for her.

 

Ok, understand.
Please remember "diesel" not gas. We all have heard horror stories.
Great you will have fresh diesel for sure, if tank has access panel may be worth a look to be sure
no debris left in tank. Be sure to check connections/leaks when tank reinstalled.
Keep us in loop as to your progress.
Clearwater still beats winter here in NY.

 

And when you do fill the tank you might want to give some thought to adding a biocide to kill those nasty bugs that cause crud to block pickup tubes and filters.

 

Yep! I was thinking about this - add before before bleeding or after bleeding and starting is complete?

 

Before in your case, I add mine about half way filling the tank so it mixes well.

 

It might not fire straight up after the bleeding process.
If so, be patient and bleed again.

We have all been caught by "thinking" the system is completely free of air and on the second bleed attempt seen air bubbling out.
.A fully charged start battery in good condition is a must.

gary

 

Flipping the decompression levers open for a few times cranking the engine won't hurt.

 

If you're going to be doing much cranking while doing the system bleed be sure to close off the raw water seacock. That will stop the engine from getting water in the cylinder. And, although there are very mixed opinions on this, many of us have put a fuel primer bulb in the fuel line ahead of the primary filter. You can pump the bulb while cracking the bleed screws and save yourself a lot of cranking.

 

if you’re going to be cranking the engine for a while, you probably should close the raw water intake seacock. This will help prevent hydrolock (sucking seawater back up from the muffler into the cylinders). The decompression levers may prevent this but it’s a good practice when doing it to cold start your motor.

 

@Anniesgalaxy74 I've run my 2GM20F out of fuel a couple of times. Very exciting, I usually have a spare fuel can on board so I figured out the bleeding process on the fly. (I should probably look into a fuel gauge) The video pretty much covers it all, including the correct adjectives for all the little parts, so I'll just say that it's a pretty forgiving engine and bleeding is not difficult. I never knew about the pump lever on the low pressure pump,and I sure wish I had as much access as the guy in the video, he probably never stands on his head above the engine.

Clearwater? @Bird Dog and I are both in Tampa, slipped at MacDill AFB. Local knowledge and moral support is readily available, and labor for beer if needs and schedules align!

 

@AWT2_Sail notes a very good point. And if you ever do get into a prolonged series of starter cycles with no ignition (don't crank for a singular prolonged time both for battery wear and duty limits of the starter), once it starts, immediately open the raw water intake. You don't want the impeller spinning when dry; it will accelerate wear. I have found I can scamper from the cockpit into the cabin and back to the engine compartment remarkably fast when the alternative is premature replacement of the water pump impeller...

 

Welcome aboard Annie!
Geta squeeze bulb don't listen to them when they all start ranting and raving that it's not up to code it'll save you so much aggravation it's worth putting up with the naysayers
8mm 5/16 Black Primer Bulb Rubber Fuel Pump Transfer Vacuum Fuel Hand Primer Gasoline Petrol Diesel Pump for Marine Boat Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X3R9YBN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_1CHVTJ8BBFP0CFS8REYD

 

Hi All,

I learned the hard way to not allow “mechanics” work on my engine. We purchased a Seafarer 26 with aYanmar YSM8. We asked the marina to commission the boat as we had to motor up the East River. They claimed that the fuel lines were not connected right and they needed to be changed in order for them to commission the boat. $2000 later we started motoring from Brooklyn, to have the engine quit on us…4hrs later BoatUS towed us back to the starting point

Long story short, we move the boat over ground, and after 2 months I figured that they connected the fuel return line to the pump and I was getting air-locked if the tank was not absolutely full.

Besides not allowing “mechanics” do work on your engine, get the manual!

 

Hopefully you were able to get your money back.

 

After 3 months travelling to/from the marina...we just needed to move on! I learned a lot about bleeding the engine!!!